Calling all 360 DA owners

Window Seal - I noticed in an old 360 thread others had water leaks through their windshield, and applied sealant to the interior portion. I was looking at the old caulking material on the outside of the boat - between windshield and hull - and noticed its quite bad in many areas. My boat is in the saltwater 24/7 and uncovered. I was going to buy some marine grade cauling material, and re-cover the old caulking material. Anyone do this? Particular cauling you used? Did you just hit the bad spots, or recaulk the entire seam? Thanks, Bill in cold and rainy San Diego.
 
Bill, I think the thread you are refering to was one we were throwing around about the location of the joint in the windshield frame in relation to the "water gutter" :huh: that carries water beneath the windshield. The joint is behind or aft of the gutter, water would pass through the joint, (actually more like come under it) and then run back into the cockpit. It would seem to make more sense if the joint was further forward (or the gutter further back). The sealant more or less diverts the water into the gutter when it comes through the joint.
boating2009010.jpg


I have replaced the sealant on the outside of the frame where the frame meets the deck. I removed all of the existing sealant the best I could with an exacto knife type tool, and then taped the joint off and used 3M 4000 UV (white). Also did the same at the radar arch and the engine room vents. The caulking that SR used had yellowed and was checking and cracking. I have been happy with the results. I am sure there are other sealants that would work. I guess all that I can say is that if I had to do it again, I would use the same stuff. Sorry, no pics of those repairs.

Marine Adhesive/Sealant Fast Cure 4000 UV - 3M


Good Luck
 
Hi Bill - I just completed this project last weekend. I carefully removed all of the old caulk (what was left)... Then applied fresh caulk made by BoatLife. I was very impressed... Super easy to apply and very smooth flow from the cartridge. It looks great! I even removed and reapplied caulk around the skylights. I'll make sure to take some pictures and post.

http://boatlife.com/life-seal/lifeseal-cartridges.html

Good luck!
-Ryan
 
Mark and Ryan, thanks for the input. I was at West Marine on Saturday and had the caulking in my hand. My cart was already full with other projects to do, so i put the caulking back on the shelf. i'll tackle it later. i was just going to run a bead over the top of the existing caulking. However it sounds like i need to remove the old stuff first, and then apply. On another note; i got pulled over by the coast guard while out cruising in SD harbor this weekend. Safety check. 2 guys with large handguns boarded, and spent a good 25 minutes going through everything. I had a little guy (9 years) old with me - neighbors son. They dinged me on that because he is under 13. However, i looked it up in Chapmans and my understanding is if a child is in an enclosed cockpit, or down below, he doesnt need to have it on. Not saying he shouldnt for safety reasons, but not required per my read. Regards, Bill.
 
I have a few 360DA questions.....

1. My previous 300DA, had some white, plastic dock line straps in the rear transom locker. My 360DA does not. Does anyone else have these in your 360DA?

2. How does your canvas attach to aft side of the arch? With zippers, velcro or snaps? My 300DA had a zipper down the aft side of the arch, as well as snaps on the side of the arch.

3. How is your water preassure in the shower? I used the shower for the first time last weekend. The pressure is kind of weak. I checked the filter, by the water pump, and it was fairly clean. Any other ideas? I may soak the shower head in a cleaner, just in case there is any mineral deposits in the shower head.

4. Anyone had the "eyebrow" zippers cut in their front eisenglass? If so, any problems?
 
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Hi Jeff,
1. Nope, no hangers for the dock lines in the transom locker, but they wouldn't be to hard to add if you wanted.
I think about doing it occasionally, but haven't yet.

2. The rear of the arch has a track screwed and sealed to it that accepts a "valance" (slides in from the side). The valance has a zipper that zips to the canvas aft shade, then a velcro flap on the valance attaches to the aft shade over the zipper to keep it weather resistant.

3. The pressure in my shower seems good, how about at other points like sinks and transom shower? Were you using the freshwater pump or the dockside hook up? Mine definitely has less pressure with the dockside hook up, (my pressure valve may need replacing).
If on the dockside, make sure the screen at the hook up is clean. Also, if using quick connect couplings at the dockside, some of them have pretty small openings in them, cutting down on the volume of water that can flow through.
If running on the pump, does it run constant, or cycle on and off? If cycling, it is capable of putting out more water, but something is restricting it. If it runs constant, and you open another faucet and there is little water coming out, could be the pump is giving out,
or you need a higher volume pump to give the amount of water you want.

4. No eye brow zippers here, but others (Two Peas that I know of for certain) do. I'm sure someone will chime in.

Take care
 
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Mark...thanks....I have not used the transon shower yet. The galley sink seems fine. We are using the freshwater pump. I will try to check this weekend, if the pump runs constantly or cycles on and off. Thanks for your help.



my3sons said:
Hi Jeff,
3. The pressure in my shower seems good, how about at other points like sinks and transom shower? Were you using the freshwater pump or the dockside hook up? Mine definitely has less pressure with the dockside hook up, (my pressure valve may need replacing).
If on the dockside, make sure the screen at the hook up is clean. Also, if using quick connect couplings at the dockside, some of them have pretty small openings in them, cutting down on the volume of water that can flow through.
If running on the pump, does it run constant, or cycle on and off? If cycling, it is capable of putting out more water, but something is restricting it. If it runs constant, and you open another faucet and there is little water coming out, could be the pump is giving out,
or you need a higher volume pump to give the amount of water you want.
Click to expand...
 
My boat is in the ocean 24/7, and I am on it every weekend since i bought it 2 months ago. I turn off the fresh water pump and head system every night when i am on it overnight to avoid the intermittant pump noise that wakes me up. I was wondering if it makes sense to turn these two systems off at the breaker when not on board, during the week. For example, I let the fresh water tank get too low this weekend (my 13 year old took a 15 min shower on swimstep) and the pump lost suction. I should have turned off the hot water heater breaker, but instead ran for the hose and quickly filled the tank. In general, i was thinking turning the fresh water pump and head system off when not on board makes sense, in case something does go awry when you are not board. Any thoughts? Thanks, Bill.
 
Bill,
I turn all 12v systems off when I leave the boat for more than a few hours. (at the port and starboard soliniod switches). Your bilge pumps will still work.
I don't worry about loosing 120v power and the fridge, figure it's better to have fully charged batteries for bilge pumps, rather than dead batteries because they were running fridges.
I leave the 120v on, obviously, but turn off some things like the hot water heater.

If your fresh water pump and vacuum pump run intermittantly in the middle of the night, you may have a leak. (if you have an ice maker, that can use water, but at the dock, you should be on dockside water, and not have the pump on)

The vacu flush system should hold vacuum for several hours, I have not had one that would hold for less than 3 or 4 days.
If the pump runs too often, you may need new duckbill valves or a new seal at the ball in the toilet. If the water disappears from the bowl, it's the latter.

You don't have to worry about toasting your water heater element if you run the fresh water tank down, or turn off you dockside water. There is still water in the hot water tank that will prevent that. That water stays in there untill you drain the hot water heater, which you lucky folks in So Cal probably do not do very often :thumbsup:
Take care

P.S. a while back you said to let you know when I was in the water...well I took the shrink wrap off this morning, washed it and got about 1 hours worth of wax on, and it started to rain. but at least it's progress
 
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Mark, first off, glad to hear you are on the water - excellent. Your comments about de-engergizing the 12 v systems when not on board make sense. Re the fresh water pump, we are on the boat 48 hours straight most weekends, so hooking up the dock water, rather than constantly running that small cent pump all day long is also good advice. I also like to anchor up for a day at various anchorages around SD harbor. My generator is still being repaired, so i also watch dc loads, and check battery voltages while at anchor, and would start engines to charge batteries if needed. If no genny, and at anchor, sounds like i should be turning off all AC loads as well, to avoid the battery - inverter loads?
 
Billfletcher said:
. If no genny, and at anchor, sounds like i should be turning off all AC loads as well, to avoid the battery - inverter loads?
Click to expand...

As long as the batteries are up, and voltages are where they should be, you're fine.

Not quite on the water yet, unless you count the ankle deep puddles in the boatyard lot from all the rain..... shooting for May 14th
 
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Is your Samsung one of the really thin LED models? It look great.


PIBYC said:
Thanks for the reply Billfletcher. I only have 169 hrs so i hope to get at least another season out of mine. I have also attached some photos of my recent upgrades including installation of a new 19" flat screen TV and a new E-80 on the dash.
Click to expand...
 
Mark...do you recall when you were working on the windshield washer pump, if you saw any coax cable running behind the cabinet? I have looked the diagrams and it looks like I the TV coax, runs down that side. I am looking for a place to tap in for a cockpit TV.


my3sons said:
When I bought this boat last year, the windshield washer feature was new to me. I could hear the sound of the pump running behind the cabinet at the wet bar, so I kind of knew where it was. When I searched on this board, several posts confirmed the location, but those were folks that owned different models. Wanting to know as much as I can about my boat, I wrote searay and asked about the access to the pump and they responded with this. They also included the access to the wiper motors.
FYI
Take care
Mark

windshieldwiperwasherandmotors001.jpg

windshieldwiperwasherandmotors002.jpg
Click to expand...
 
Bottom Line said:
Mark...do you recall when you were working on the windshield washer pump, if you saw any coax cable running behind the cabinet? I have looked the diagrams and it looks like I the TV coax, runs down that side. I am looking for a place to tap in for a cockpit TV.
Click to expand...

Sorry Jeff, afraid I can't be of much help, I didn't have any reason to go in there.
I just wanted to know where the pump was, and Sea Ray responded with the power point file that I included in that post.
I haven't actually been in there yet, and hopefully won't have to go in there. :grin:

Let us know what you find out
 
Fresh Water Tank

Is it better to run with full water tanks or empty? What would be better fuel economy?
 
A full tank of water adds almost 500 pounds in the bow, which improves the ride in snotty water, but it is more weight, so obviously
fuel economy will suffer.
You might consider 1/3 tank or so when day cruising for using the head and transom shower etc.
I only fill my tank when heading out for a few days on the hook.
Take care
 
I like your install of the E80. What did you have in the location before? I have a older RL70 that I am wanting to upgrade to a newer model. Did you modify / cut your existing back plate?

Thanks.
Jerry.
 
Jerpro,
I upgraded from an RL70CRC to an E-80. I did have to cut the existing "wood" plate to make the hole larger. I also had to pucrhace a split pedestal cable from RM. The pedestal is not powered through the display like the RL unit. I have pics posted in this thread of the final project.
 
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