Cabin Hatch Riser arm replacement

[stwischu]

I have recently purchased a '98 250 Sundancer.
One of the hatch arms was broken.
This is a Taylor Made Ultra II 20x20 hatch
I purchased two arms and removed the old ones.
I found that the arms are secured to the frame of the hatch by a blind rivet which is installed FROM THE OUTSIDE?!!
I know exactly what rivet is needed, that's not the issue,.

But I need to completely pull the hatch assembly out of the deck.
How does one do this?

OR.... Is there some other way to secure the riser arm that someone has had success with?
Some method that doesn't require pulling the hatch out?


Any help appreciated.
Thanks.

 

[Lazy Daze]

Have never replaced an arm, before. But I would use this opportunity to take the hatch out and reseal it. You can have the hatch completely removed in about 10 minutes. You might get a kick out of condition of the "seal" - it may just be a piece of double-sided foam. If it hasn't started leaking yet, it's only a matter of time. Do it now while you have a good reason to. If you take your time on this project, it might take all of an hour.

 

[stwischu]

Thanks Dennis -
I took your advice and pulled the hatch. So here is is step by step on replacing riser arm for whoever else needs to do this:
This Hatch is the 20x20 Taylor Made Ultra II. The hatch arm is P/N 1722. (left and right are the same)
These parts are not interchangeable with the newer Ultra III so it's important to know exactly what model and size hatch you have.
Although only 1 arm was broken, I decided to replace both, since my boat is 16 years old.
The window end of each arm is held in with a screw. Removed this.
The frame mount end of the arm is held in with a rivet. I used an angle grinder to CAREFULLY cut the arm and rivet off.
I could then open the hatch window fully. I used a bundle of rope to rest the open window on, so as not to put stress on the hinge with the window swung fully open. Then I removed all the screws.

The window frame was still held in very strongly with 16 year old caulk. It was a tan colored caulk, Mostly pliable still, but brittle in some areas.

I used a razor blade to CAREFULLY cut thru the caulk, between the frame and top deck.
Then I used a slightly longer paint spatula to break through the caulk a little more. Never prying up on the hatch - just digging in, and side to side. All around all 4 sides. Slow and careful. Don't want to bend or break the frame.
Finally it was loose enough to carefully pry up.

Once the hatch was removed I looked at the sky to make sure it wasn't going to rain soon. That would be bad since my boat is on a lift and now I have a 20x20 wide open hole in my bow deck. Should have thought about rain before I started this project. Here in Florida in July, it can rain at a moment's notice.


I scraped all the old caulk off both the frame and deck. Used some paint clean-up solvent to wipe it clean.

Next I installed the new riser arms. Taylor Made has a website where you can find the original rivet, but I chose instead to use a screw and locknut.. Used a #10-32 screw with a nylon insert lock nut. All stainless steel hardware of course. Screw head just fits inside the riser arm recess. And lock nut just fits in the groove of the frame. Some type of locking is important since you don't want that screw coming loose later.

Next I used some clear silicone indoor/outdoor caulk to put a heavy bead around the frame and over each mount hole.
Then I dropped the hatch back in.

Then I re-installed the screws. You need to hold the glass vertical when you install the screws or the weight will pop the hatch out of the deck if you let it swing all the way open.

Then reconnected the glass mount of the riser arms. Done.

 

[another escapade]

Thank you for the play by play. I have to do the same exact thing to the hatch on my boat. Couple of questions, do you have to remove the interior part of the frame..the part up against the headliner? Also what was the cost for the replacement arms ?

 

[stwischu]

The frame is all one piece. It lifts straight up out of the hole. Arms for the Ultra II were $62 each. Yea. Wow. Arms for the Ultra III are about $25. I called TalylorMade and was told the IIIs are current production so they are cheaper. And the two tyoes are not interchangeable. Check their website and look close at the diagrams if you don't know your model

 

[stwischu]

Good luck.

 

[another escapade]

not sure which model I have, looks like two pieces. how can I tell which model it is ? The boat is old its a 1999. Hopefully its the ultra III

 

[katricol]

Where did you buy the arms ??

 

[stwischu]

www.boatersland.com

They are in Ohio.

 

[gerryb]

I have a feeling this repair is in my future as well. Thanks for the post. I think the ULTRA II model (arm shown above) is the one that seems to be more problematic. The ULTRA III is totally different with a grey lever instead of the wheel.