Cabin door

[Great Escape]

The cabin door on my 290 late model 1997 Sundancer sticks when opening and closing. It appears there is no way to thoroughly clean the tracks or even replace them without removing the door and it looks as if the door can't be removed without taking out the entire console. Any direction on ways to improve the ability for the door to slide, cleaning, lubricant etc, or directions on how to remove door to clean and replace tracking. The tracking on the bottom is plastic and seems to be stepped on more times than not adding to the problem. Has anyone found a more durable tracking, aluminum, SS etc;?

 

[Nehalennia]

I clean mine occasionally with a hose to clear the track of any debris and then open up the helm to get in there and mop it up and/or vacuum up whatever debris is there. The top track also is important to get clear. It doesn't take much to impeded the track's travel so even a small pebble or wad of dust will do it.

 

[Moose]

After cleaning thoroughly, apply some white lithium grease to the channels(upper and lower). My 260 door slides like greased lightening.

 

[Nehalennia]

After cleaning thoroughly, apply some white lithium grease to the channels(upper and lower). My 260 door slides like greased lightening.

I don't recommend that. That will attract dirt, hair, etc. The Delrin really just need to stay clean.

 

[tdschafer]

If your door is sticking when unlatching then the trucks that it rides on are probably shot. I had that problem last season, my first with my 97 330 DA. I just ordered all new parts, trucks, track and the door train from Teak Isle Mfg in Ocoee Fl. The gentlemans name is Jim Cox. The # is 407-656-8885 if you need it. Total package was $265 plus shipping to New York.

 

[dpmulvey]

If your door is sticking when unlatching then the trucks that it rides on are probably shot. I had that problem last season, my first with my 97 330 DA. I just ordered all new parts, trucks, track and the door train from Teak Isle Mfg in Ocoee Fl. The gentlemans name is Jim Cox. The # is 407-656-8885 if you need it. Total package was $265 plus shipping to New York.

Please post pix of the process. I am having the same problem and can't for the life of me figure out how to get the door off to make the repair.

TIA

 

[Great Escape]

Thanks for the info on where to get parts. My concern is how to get the door off. Do you have any pictures or a step by step process on how to proceed.


Thanks

 

[Moose]

I'm not saying lather it with lithium. After you apply it wipe with cloth and spread evenly "very thin". No accumulation so far, but agree on premise.

 

[tdschafer]

It just so happens I snapped some shots with my phone during the removal. real easy by the way. There are seven screws that hold the port outer door cover on my vessel. Two 2 the top, Two @ the bottom and three that held it to the port inner wall. These were hidden behind the speaker. Once all of the screws are removed its a matter of gently working the caulk bead loose on the port side then voila- it's off!. It's late tonight but I will down load pics tomorrow from my phone. Someone wanted pics of my satellite install too.....I took 'em but cant remember who was asking.......They say the mind is the first thing to go. LOL

Update: Here you go guys. This is the first time I tried to make an album here so forgive me if it's out of sequence or confusing. Heres the link: http://clubsearay.com/forum/album.php?albumid=335 Any problems or questions either post or PM me and I will help if I can. I am just waiting for the new parts to arrive and will reassemble this week. Hope this helps. Todd

 

[arifaat]

Hi Everyone.

My Sea Ray 310 is now in Gouna on the Egyptian red Sea coast.

I have a problem with the rollers on the sliding door leading to the Cabin.

I cant figure out how to remove the door so i can replace.
Where can i purchase the rollers from?

I will try and have a machinist replace the broken wheels with teflon ones...

first i have to remove door!!!

 

[jcoll]

I've got a '98 Sundancer with sliding door problems also. Seems like a common issue. The pictures on the link for the 33 are great but my 29's door slides to starboard - underneath the helm panel- not to port and I'll assume that Great Escapes does too. Looking at the layout I have to agree the only way to expose it is to remove the helm station - yuch!!!!!!!!!!! I think I'll put this one on the back burner for now and use the door carefully in the meantime. If there's an easier way I'd love to know also. :wow:

 

[Half Off]

Like Todd (Nehalennia) said in a previous post when my door starts rolling rough I get out the garden hose and flush the crap out of it. Sometimes it takes a lot of flushing but it does the trick.

 

[DorothyAnn]

Thanks for the info on where to get parts. My concern is how to get the door off. Do you have any pictures or a step by step process on how to proceed.


Thanks

I have a 290 with door problems as well. I have replacement rollers, they can be installed on the top but having problems with bottom rollers. I have pushed the door all the way under the console after removing the door stop and will be attempting to remove the bottom track (in sections if possible) without removing the door. Work in progress. JOE:thumbsup:

 

[Bucit]

After cleaning I use silicone spray (like a CRC product) and it works great.

 

[Carpedmman]

I clean the tracks thoroughly with a brush and vacuum. Then take a soap bar and grater and grate some shavings down onto the track. The shavings won't attract the dirt like a lubricant would. Try it!

 

[RPearson]

:huh:Hey saw your post and was wondering has anyone ever answered THE question....Do you need to remove the steering console to remove /replace track and/ or runners for door???? Maybe I is tarded but I have never seen the actual answer to this part of the question.

Rpearson
270 Sundancer Crown N Water

 

[jason78]

Although I do not have any first hand experience with the product, I have seen others here recommend a Lubricant Spray called Jig-A-Loo for this track. Apparently it is dry lubricant.

 

[boatmailster]

i have bad news for some of you guys. on some older models searay made door with "bent" plywood inside and unfortunaly after a while that "bent" part of the door tries to change shape back to straight and because of that door puts a lot of pressure on tracks and makes difficult to open and close the door. the only way to repair this, is to remove door from boat (dash needs to be removed for that), peel vinyl or carpet, make notches to relieve tension inside plywood, glass over plywood to add stiffness and to keep new shape and reglue vinyl.

 

[CJ Sea Ray]

Can anyone confirm or deny that it is a requirement to remove the helm module to remove the sliding cabin door on a 1998-2000 "widebody" Sundancer 270?

 

[Frostman]

I have a '98 270 DA 'widebody' and believe removal is the only option IF you feel compelled to remove the door. Our hatch was becoming increasingly difficult to slide and the bottom track was becoming increasingly looser during our last week on the water. I planned on fixing it when we returned to shore and regret having not taken care of it sooner. The screws in the door opening that held the track down wouldn't hold and were working up and obstructing the 'trucks/slide pieces' on the bottom of the door... the 2nd screw head got caught by the port truck and bent over obstructing the door from either fully opening or closing. I tried lifting the port end of the track and intended to saw the screw off but there was nothing to saw! The screw had lodged itself in the center channel with the head jammed in the track screw hole and wouldn't budge.

In the end I drilled a 5/16" hole in the end of the port truck which allowed me to grasp the end of the screw with a small pair of needle nosed pliers and eventually get a hold of it with a pair of vice grips and yank it free. All 4 of these flat head screws were loose/stripped. I slid the door open and locked it down for the rest of the trip.

Rather than tempt fate and another extraction ordeal I've replaced them with 10-24 x 2" Stainless Steel Flat Head Machine Screws secured with SS fender washers and Nylock nuts bolted through from below with 5200 Marine Sealant on both ends. There are 2 screws holding the ceiling panel in the aft berth which, when removed, provide access for all 4 screw holes. Why Sea Ray didn't do this in the first place is beyond me. The screws they used were longer than the material they were screwed into and, as they worked loose, provided openings for water to seep down into the aft berth. Grrrrrr.

Further investigation on why things were loosening up in the first place revealed that one of the upper channel trucks had apparently come loose on the previous owner, who hadn't replaced it. They had, however, replaced a flat head screw holding down the upper track with a round head screw (idiots!) which in turn kept bumping the remaining truck which eventually broke loose making things worse.

I intend to install a single piece 'slide guide' in the upper track secured from above with something beefier than the #6 wood screws Sea Ray used from below. I won't pull the windshield and the console unless I absolutely have no other creative recourse.