Buying a saltwater boat

[magstang1]

I'm a freshwater boater and I'm considering buying a saltwater boat. What should I look for. Of course the dealer says it was maintained appropriately. I have no way of knowing. It's a 280 sunsport with 350's and bravo 1's. I think they are 350 mags. It's a 2000 model.

Help!!, and Thanks!!

 

[tobnpr]

Biggest concern would be the outdrives for any saltwater I/O boat. Even if lift kept/dry stacked, there can be corrosion issues. I probably would not consider one that has been wet-slipped. If the engines are FWC and the risers/manifolds have been recently replaced that's a plus. Your surveyor will determine the condition of the engines and drives.

Other than that, there should be no issues, unless the boat has been neglected. A well-maintained boat will have no issues from saltwater use, but neglect is less forgiving in a saltwater environment due to the obvious corrosion issues- which if present, will largely be visible and obvious.

Good luck.

 

[Summer Fun II]

Why would you think about buying a salt water boat ??.
Some people would kill to buy a boat from the fresh waters of the Great Lakes !!.
Isn't thats where you are from ??.

Welcome to CSR. :thumbsup:

 

[Groucho]

My prior boat was a salt water boat. I now know things I didn't know before. It was a 4 year old boat with 67 hours. Turns out the manifolds were almost closed...the freshwater pump almost shot..and many other issues the 500.00 surveyor didn't see.
I got a great deal though....now I know why. Thank God it had an extended warranty from the prior owner that covered most of the repairs.
I won't do that again unless I get a GREAT deal and then will plan on spending the savings on the repair work.

 

[rcknecht]

All I can say is look a Frank Webster's boat, it is in salt water, and it is in better shape than any fresh water of the same year and model... It all depends on how it was maintained...

 

[magstang1]

Thanks for the replies.

I'm not looking for a saltwater boat specifically. The 280 sunsport isn't a very common model. The one I like with the options I want just happens to be a salty model.

I completely understand the fact that it is all about the maintenance. My boat is 18 years old, but it looks and runs better than 90 percent of the boats in my marina.

This boat is twin 350 and Bravo 1 drives. Is the bravo like the alpha with the impeller and housing in the lower unit? I do the maintenance on my boat so I have no problem digging into the drives.

Manifolds and risers I'm not really familiar with but it can't be that hard if it needs replacing. A good selection of wrenches, a merc manual, and you good folks on this forum should cover it.

So let's say for argument sake that there are two identical boats. One fresh water, one salt. The fresh water is $40k. What would it take price wise to make you consider the salt?

I'm a do it myself kind of guy. It seems like most of my experiences when I pay people end up going south. I like turning wrenches, and it saves a ton of money.

My completely arbitrary guestimate is about $2k for parts if manifolds, risers and water pumps need replaced. If the boat is $5k less than the fresh water, it seems like a reasonable savings to me.

Am I way off base?

p.s. Yes I boat in the Great Lakes. The motors on the boat I'm looking at are raw water cooled.

 

[Jimmy Buoy]

Bravo I's are not like Alpha's. The raw water pump is belt driven off the engine just like power steering or the alternator. It's also a much tougher drive and does not require the dreaded "shift interrupter" circut that can cause so many stalling issues dockside. They are also easier to remove from the boat since they use O-rings and a self sealing lube fitting so no draining the drive prior to removal. Next time you're at a boat show, go to the Merc booth and see a cut-a-way of both drives to see the differences. The Bravo I is quite bulletproof.

Like you, I found a relatively rare Sea Ray that was in really good shape with the right options and approx. $20000 less than other similar salty models on the market. There were no fresh water boats of this type to compare the price.

Like mentioned above, once inspected the exhaust manifolds were found to have major blockages so I replaced them. All other systems that had salt water passing through were inspected and replaced (like some hoses) as required. The engines themselves were cooled with antifreeze so they were fine. Although I did have to replace a main heat exchanger, but most likely due to incomplete winterizing of the raw water system during it's first real winter (prior to purchase).:smt009

The particular design sold us on the boat and I don't regret the purchase since like you, I go the extra mile to ensure that any problem areas are dealt with properly and completely - since I'm the guy doing it!:thumbsup:

 

[Woody]

All I can say is look a Frank Webster's boat, it is in salt water, and it is in better shape than any fresh water of the same year and model... It all depends on how it was maintained...

This part makes sense.

 

[Summer Fun II]

My exhaust manifolds are 22yrs old & they still look like new. :smt038

 

[comsnark]

From what I know, there are two factors on salt water boats:

1) Corrosion of risers/manifolds.
2) Build up of corrossion deposits in the engine itself.

Regarding the risers/manifolds: a "properly" maintained system will have seen between one and three riser/manifold replacements since 2000. You *may* be due for replacement NOW. Once replaced. . .you will be fine.

I bought my 280 (5.7L's/Alpha drives) at nine years old. This boat had ORIGINAL manifolds. They were in GOOD SHAPE when I replaced them 2 weeks after buying the boat. I split the replacement cost with the seller. The PARTS alone were about $2600. I would guess five-ten hours work for someone who knows what they are doing. Don't ask what I paid. I don't think it is a bad job. . .but it can be a pain if the bolts don't come out.

You might approach the replacement as a "cost split" with the seller like I did.

You do want to check if there is any sign of leakage around the gaskets NOW. This may indicate a current problem, which is what you want to avoid. Leaking risers/manifolds could put water into the engine (a bad thing). When doing a seatrial, you want to shoot IR temps of the risers/elbows to ensure they are all getting about the same cooling (this verifies no blockages). Temps should be no more than about 20F apart. If you get an inspection by an ambitious mechanic, it might not be unreasonable to pull an elbow during the mechanical survey. (you need new gaskets on hand if you pull an elbow). A mechanic pulled an elbow on my boat "just for kicks" looking for an overheat problem once. It seemed to take him under an hour, while he was checking other stuff. If one (of the four) elbows looks fine, and the flows seem good to all the risers/elbows: you are probably in good shape.

Regarding engine deposits: I have had a number of people tell me that engines in my area last about 16 years. I think the basic criteria is that if the engine can hold proper temperature NOW at WOT (at proper RPM). . you will be fine.

Regarding impellers: These are normal wear items in both fresh and salt water. Figure on changing them right after you buy the boat. (check the Merc Manual for the recommended frequency: I replace mine every other year. . but I think the Merc Manual calls for more frequent inspection)

Hope this helps.