Buying a 2008 340!! Any specific recommendations?

Covedog

New Member
Mar 8, 2012
66
Bainbridge Island
Boat Info
2008 340 DA, 2015 Glastron 160 gt, Pygmy glass over mahogany 17.5 and 14.5 kayaks (I built)
Engines
Twin 8.1 Merc V Drive on the 340, 75 Merc on the Glastron, Lehr 2.5 on Saturn tender
I've guess I've got it worse than 2 footitis as I started with a 2010 Chaparral 215 a few years ago, then a 1999 Sea Ray 290 spring 2010, and now have found and made an accepted offer on a 2008 340 Sundancer.
Haul out and survey is next Thursday (I'll spend the day with the surveyor), and Sea Trial is following day. I have additional mechanical inspection standing ready if survey or sea trial uncovers anything of particular concern.
She is a 250 hour boat that shows (and smells) like a brand new boat. Boathouse kept in saltwater.
370 hp 8.1L Mercs with V drives, and pretty much every accessory offered that model year.
All service records available and show just normal maintenance other than generator wiring harness was replaced last year.

Black hull and black canvas (sweet) !

Any specifics anyone can share I can add to my inspection list?
 
Sounds like a nice boat ( mine is black hull with black canvas). Nothing specific comes to mind as a "problem area". I would make sure all the electrical/electronics work from the helm. My only maintenance issue since buying the boat was replacement of the switch panel on the helm. Those just fail sometimes, was working when the boat was surveyed.

Keep us posted... Good luck with the survey.
 
Cool :) crossing my fingers :) for your success!!!!

1. Run the genny for the ENTIRE sea trail with full load and A/C on FULL speed.
2. Run engines on for extended time on both high load/speed - and then back to "slow forward idle" speed for quite some time
3. Write down each engine parameters on selected RPM settings - so you have a reference (So idle, 1000, 2000, 3000, 4000, 5000 rpm)

the two above will show if your cooling system is full off crap - the engine will stall (vapour lock) at at slow forward idle if fuel cooler cooling is partly blocked and engine is hot / or give alarm if overheating. Genny will stall (vapour lock) after a while if fuel cooler on that is full of crap. Mine was....

Do mechanical survey anyway - not matter what. Oil samples and cylinder compressions are important. And a computer read out of the SmartCraft data can tell the mechanic a lot. I don't know much about V's if it was a stern drive boat with raw or part fresh water cooled - I would have the risers/manifolds inspected. If they have not been maintained well and flushed often - they would be up for replacement soon I would guess. If all bolts on the risers are black - and has no tool marks on them - they have never been lifted or replaced (unless the mechanic is a stickler for doing superb work) - look for rust stains coming from the gaskets - that can indicate a replacement is needed sooner rather than later.

Look at the Genny - if all parts are WHITE painted - there has been little maintenance (or again they had a great mechanic with white paint coming around) - pay attention to the zinc anode on the heat exchanger - if that has never been replaced - it can be the genny never had proper service. Also look at the genny fuel filter - if it is white - that has not been exchanged - if it is brass coloured it has. But it seems like many people forget to service their genny.

If it has Raymarine C series - gently touch outer edges around the display. If display locks up with funny colours - that is about to give in.

Check sump pump "container" plastic - my 2008 was very brittle and needed replacement. Check plastic outlet from blowers as well - mine are just a touch away from disintegration.

Check all hoses for cracks - most of mine had to be replaced (ALL through hull water hoses, exhaust hose from genny and "blackwater" outlet hose)

But :) the most important part is - have FUN doing it! Good luck again.
 

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