Bunks or Rollers?

[eroemer]

I have a 1977 SRV 220 and I am new to trailering. Have owned the boat for 5 years, but previously kept it in a slip on the lake and then at the marina storage. Never had to trailer it.

I have heard the rollers are not good for fiberglass boats. Am I better off to stick with the carpeted bunks that are on the trailer?

Also, I am not sure the trailer is setup correctly--the transom sticks out about 6" past the end of the bunks when up against the bow stop.

How does one go about adjusting the bow stop and bunks to correctly fit a specific boat? Also, how do I find out how much my boat weighs?

 

[eroemer]

I do not have access to pics right now, but will post them later...the bow stop/winch stand looks like it can be moved...there are three u-bolts holding the stand to the trailer.

I also need to replace the winch itself (won't lock properly). I looked at the Sea Ray site and my boat is listed at "3400 lbs". Does this mean my winch needs to be rated this high? Most winches I have seen on line (hand winches) are about 2500 lbs....

 

[tdappleman]

I agree with Scott - I prefer bunks as well. I think they are easier on the boat and easier to drive the boat back onto the trailer. To ideally setup your trailer you need to have the total weight and then you can adjust your bow stop so that you end up with a tongue weight of between 5-9% of the total weight and no more than 10%. You also want to make sure the bunks are aligned correctly to not hit any fittings and be careful with your trim tabs (if equipped) and any depth sounders, etc at the rear. The dealer setup mine and I ended up with the bunks being about 1" from the rear and it tows great with no sway at all.

 

[Go Aweigh2452]

I've owned both bunks and rollers and prefer bunks. The total weight of thr triler includes the bunks/rollers. Therefore with bunks, you can shave off another 200+ pounds and add that to the boat.

Rollers are more expensive to replace and require more maintenance then bunks...

 

[douglee25]

Here's my take... for a boat your weight (~3000#'s), either the bunk or roller will suffice. I would say whatever you can get your hands on for a decent price would be best. Another thing to think about are the ramp conditions that you will be experiencing. If the ramps are short and you combine that with a low tide situation, the roller trailer may be a better fit. In that situation, you can pretty much push your boat off the trailer. They are much more forgiving if you don't have ideal launching conditions. What that said, on larger boats (6000#'s +) I would use a bunk trailer.

Doug

 

[eroemer]

Here are the pictures of the boat on the trailer:

Bow Stop/Winch:

Transom/bunks:

Winch stand moved?

,

,

 

[DCarl320]

Looks like you have enough room for adjustment, I would only echo Travis, make sure your toungue weight is in spec. If it's in spec I wouldnt worry about the 2" overhang. :thumbsup:

 

[eroemer]

How do I make sure the tongue weight is in spec? The transom overhang is closer to 6"-8", is this a concern? Should the transom be fully supported?

 

[douglee25]

How do I make sure the tongue weight is in spec? The transom overhang is closer to 6"-8", is this a concern? Should the transom be fully supported?

I believe they look for 10% of the total weight to be on the tongue. Typical hitches will support up to 500 #'s of tongue weight. You can measure at a local weigh scale. I wouldn't be concerned about 6" - 8" of overhang if your tongue weight is in spec.

Doug

 

[eroemer]

I have never done that before--do I just go in and tell them I need to know the tongue weight? Or do I need to set it up in a particular way first? What is the procedure for measuring the tongue weight?

And just to clarify--6-8" of overhang is OK? I only ask because when I realized I was going to have to start trailering the boat, I picked up a "guide" that said "even 1/2" of overhang is asking for trouble"...is that just a CYA statement by the authors? [BTW, yes, this guide is what has prompted me to ask all of these questions about the trailer in the first place]

 

[douglee25]

I have never done that before--do I just go in and tell them I need to know the tongue weight? Or do I need to set it up in a particular way first? What is the procedure for measuring the tongue weight?

And just to clarify--6-8" of overhang is OK? I only ask because when I realized I was going to have to start trailering the boat, I picked up a "guide" that said "even 1/2" of overhang is asking for trouble"...is that just a CYA statement by the authors? [BTW, yes, this guide is what has prompted me to ask all of these questions about the trailer in the first place]

Here's a quick 'weigh' to calculate your tongue weight.

http://www.curtmfg.com/index.cfm?event=pageview&contentpieceid=1347

As far as overhang, I've seen trailers come from the factory that are made to have overhang up to 1'. I don't see how 6" would make much of a difference.

Doug

 

[Nehalennia]

Bunks are great.
Especially with the "Glide King" bunks from King Trailers
I love my King trailer. These bucks allow me to launch the boat and retrieve it easily by myself and very little winching. I just slowly power on up to within a few inches of the eye stop roller.

 

[bobnlee2007]

HI ! Having just gone through weighing my rig, here is the low down:
Go to one of the big truckstops like Pilot or TA (Truckstops of America) and
get your whole setup done. Truck/SUV and trailer. My cost was about$9.00.

Then launch your boat and go back and weigh again without the boat.
The truck scales are segmented to allow weighing the truck and the trailer
as separate units. The tongue weight will be part of your truck weight with
the boat on the trailer. You will notice that your vehicle weight is less without
the boat on the trailer as well as the the trailer weight being about 3500+Lbs
lighter.
Your trailer has a manufactureres plate that tells what the load capacity
is or at least the GVWR (Trailer weight + Load weight) rating.

The scale receipt can be a handy document to prove that your vehicle is
towing a load that is within the rated limit of your vehicle if something weird happens.
And it could be a liability if you are way over the trailer and tow vehicle limit. [8-O

Some states have public use scales that charge zip/zilch to promote safe towing
practices. Some states have a more cavalier attitude about what is allowed on the roads.
The bunk pads are better for long term storage and for long distance towing.

 

[douglee25]

Well I'll agree to disagree Scottee... having 100% of the hull supported would be ideal but the moment created by having 1" or 6" hanging off the back of a trailer isn't going to make a difference. Most engines are mounted more than a foot inboard anyways. That's where the weight is, not at the very back of the hull.

Doug

 

[First Born]

I would love to get others take on this and by no way do I know what I am talking about but the other day watching ship shap TV they had a trailer mfg (I want to say SL) and they asked what was the most important thing when picking out a trailer and the answer was full support, you want it flush with the back of the boat.

Wesley

 

[Nehalennia]

I moved my boat back slightly on the trailer to protect the new transducer and defintely agree with Scott, that as much of the boat that can be supported is the way to go.

 

[Woody]

A properly built and setup trailer will support the transom and be able to meet the requirements for tongue weight. The OP's boat only has a single drive etc, but can you imagine the stresses generated as the boat bounces along on the trailer and you have hundreds of #'s cantilevered off the rear unsupported.

 

[douglee25]

Well I'll agree to disagree Scottee... having 100% of the hull supported would be ideal but the moment created by having 1" or 6" hanging off the back of a trailer isn't going to make a difference. Most engines are mounted more than a foot inboard anyways. That's where the weight is, not at the very back of the hull.

Doug

Reread my post people. I used the word 'ideal'. Ideally having the hull supported 100% is best but having the hull off the back of the bunks by an inch isn't going to make much of a difference. You create more of a moment on the transom when you climb up on the swim platform vs. what the outdrive will do.

Doug

 

[Go Aweigh2452]

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