Broken Stanchion - Suggestions??

Stee6043

Well-Known Member
Jun 1, 2015
6,758
West Michigan
Boat Info
1997 Sundancer 400
Engines
7.4L Gassers
Hello everybody. Whilst on my boat this week I had a bow rail stanchion separate from the base. It looks to me like it's been repaired once before but I can't tell for sure. If it was repaired it was a pretty clean job.

At any rate, is there a generally accepted way to repair this with some level of confidence it will hold (outside of welding)? I’m not worried about water intrusion since the base is still attached to the hull, in-tact and still fully screwed. It’s the vertical stanchion post that has broken free right at the bottom. I can see myself doing a real crack job with some JB Weld but thought I’d come here first to see if there are any better ideas.

Thank you!
 
I would spend the money and do it right. Have it welded. I broke one this spring and it cost about $150 to have it welded.
 
If you do the weld while the base is still attached to the deck make sure you have a very reputable welder do it. U can't do a continues weld it will get to hot and either burn seperat or discolor your deck. I forget the word for it but basically he needs to tack then stop let cool tack stop let cool and so on. Try to get access to the bottom of the stanchion plate so u can watch for fires. Easily done just need to be a little cautious that's all.
 
I had a bunch of these that had separated. THis repair was welded b/c I couldn't get to the underside.
105_2212.jpg



The others I took off the plate, set a new "holder" in place (through bolted with aluminum backing plate) and put the stanchion in, held in place with set screws...

BigAnchor800x600.jpg
 
If you are going to repair it then fix it right. Stick J&B Weld on it and we'll have to answer this same question in about November.

Get a quality TIG welder with stainless rail experience who will remove the base, Pull the rial up to get clearance underneath the plate, insert a heat sink and re-weld the base on the stanchion. This isn't an expensive repair…..your minimum to get the welder to come to the boat will exceed the cost of the job.
 
Frank, this guy (who Frank C recommended) didn't remove the base. Can't b/c the underside was inaccessible. He used wet rags around the work area to control temperature and knew exactly what he was doing. I imagine the problem could be that it still heats up and damages the bedding, but shat's the alternative?

That boat sunk anyway so it's a moot point now ;-)
 
Not likely!!! That was ABOVE the water line! ;-)
 
Frank, this guy (who Frank C recommended) didn't remove the base. Can't b/c the underside was inaccessible. He used wet rags around the work area to control temperature and knew exactly what he was doing. I imagine the problem could be that it still heats up and damages the bedding, but shat's the alternative?

That boat sunk anyway so it's a moot point now ;-)

I didn't think hat pic you posted was a 380 rail....
 
If you do the weld while the base is still attached to the deck make sure you have a very reputable welder do it. U can't do a continues weld it will get to hot and either burn seperat or discolor your deck. I forget the word for it but basically he needs to tack then stop let cool tack stop let cool and so on. Try to get access to the bottom of the stanchion plate so u can watch for fires. Easily done just need to be a little cautious that's all.

I always called that method stitching... Probably not the proper jargon to someone in the industry but they always know what I meant.
 
No pulpit on a 380 either!
 
I always called that method stitching... Probably not the proper jargon to someone in the industry but they always know what I meant.

That's the word! I had it on the tip of my tongue just couldn't get it out. I'm an ornamental ironwork er in manhatten and have done many seemed stainless rails. Although I can cut and bent were you couldn't put a hair in between I cannot for the life of me get the concept of the tig. Didn't really get to much practice time in but in due time. I'm very good at stick mig and Flux just not tig
 

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