Broken bonding wire

[aquadancer]

During my regular pre-trip ER inspection this weekend, I found a broken bonding wire. This particular wire ties a connection block on the transom to a large bolt which I assume to secure the main hull zinc to the transom. While I didn't trace all the bonding wires running to that block - it looked like bunch important stuff like rudder posts, strainers were connected to that block.

My first reaction was to get my tools and fix it, but the bolt appeared to be secured through the hull and below water line. I stopped myself fearing a waterfall. Questions:

1. can I attempt to fix this on the water or do I need to haul out?
2. if haul out is needed - can this wait end of season if I patch this to the other main bond (splice into the other hull zinc bolt)?
3. Is there a better, more permanent fix than 4ga wire and ring under the bolt (i.e. heavy duty bonding strap)?

Knowing that Searay relies on bonding for protection of many components (i.e. no zincs on rudders or shaft), I am inclined to just deal with this properly right away - but having to haul out to fix a wire seems like a little much (poor design).

Your comments / opinions / suggestions ?

Thanks

 

[fwebster]

The stern zinc is thru bolted and the ring terminal is under the bolt head. You are in PA.....I'd be inclined to wait on your Fall haul out then fix it. Unless you get a deal on a haul out, I don't think it's worth the $350 or so to haul early.

I think your rudder hardware has its own bonding connection. Sea Ray says that the shafts and props are bonded via the engine ground system.........but I ain't buying that one.

If you are concerned, an alternative may be to get a zinc guppy and connect it to the broken bonding wire and hang it off the transom until you haul out.

 

[Asureyez]

Nothing is Protected

If you are indicating that the 6 or 8 AWG green wire leading from a ground buss bar aft in the ER down below the water line is disconnected from the zinc through bolt(s)? Then you indeed need to get on it, ASAP.

Any idea how long its been this way?

You might want to try to loosen the NUT holding the failed lug on the bolt, on the inside of the transom. It is a NUT isn't it (gawd I love pictures)?

If the nut will back off without the bolt turning, you can remove the nut and replace the eye terminal by crimping/swage on a new terminal to the wire and lock down the nut. All this predisposes there is enough slack in the wire. If the wire is too short to let you snip back an inch or two to get to clean strands you'll need to replace the wire run back to the ground buss. Don't just wire butt connect a stub on it, give your boat a chance and run a new main bonding ground. But do shrink warp any new work you crimp into the system.

The bolt is probably glued in with 3M 5200 adhesive sealant and will probably stay still when you back off the nut. If it was installed correctly there would have been a double nut, the top one locking the bottom and the lug sandwiched in between the nuts. If that's the case ... no problem, just hold the bottom nut in place with one wrench and back off the top one.

If the work causes a small leak, then a haul out will be in order.

While you're at this, you'll want to wire brush off these ground busses and then apply electrical protectant grease. I use real dielectric grease to all these below water line ground connections, applied liberally like plaster. Go everywhere and check each green wire connection and every buss to make sure every thing is clean, tight and working to protect your boat.

If this connection has been broker for more than a few days, perhaps months ... then, you need to go after a corrosion patrol checking everything that is immersed or is frequently in contact with salt water. You are looking for looking for signs of serious corrosion. Really look closely at all engine grounds, zinc and joins of dissimilar metals ... stainless to aluminum, bronze to aluminum, solder joins on the oil coolers. Look for bright pinkish bronze, puffy scaling aluminum or solder ... if its looks like its not new work, its been working and closer examination is in order. Look at the shaft for the mains and the rudder where they disappear into the packing gland You may need to remove inspection covers, end caps to get a good view.

If you're worried about getting into this on your own, then get a experienced tech out, or go the haul out route and inspect the running gear as well.
Good luck.

 

[fwebster]

The transom zinc is mounted on bolts and the bolt heads are inside the boat. The only fix is either a haul out or a temporary step like hanging a guppy off the transom until a haul out is scheduled.

 

[osd9]

Here's a trick I did with a friend in a similar situation a few years back.

Get the smallest pair of vise grips you can find at sears or home depot....strip some extra insulation off the end of the wire.....wrap the stripped wire end on the head of the bolt....and then, as tight as you can, use the vise grip to hold the wire on the bolt....

It lasted for a few months when we did it....your mileage may vary...

 

[aquadancer]

Thanks for your replies.

This should be a simple fix, if it were properly designed. As Frank W. said, the bolt heads are on the inside of the boat. Double nuts on the outside to make zinc changes easy. This should be a threaded stud glassed throught the hull with double nuts on both sides and bonding straps connecting grounding busses to the hull zinc.

Frank - clipping a fish would be easy, but not a very elegant solution - wire runing through the cockpit and over the transom...

Dom - your idea may work, there is not enough slack wire so the large wire from the buss would have to be replaced

I am thinking of splicing into the other large 4Ga bonding wire which connects the other busses to the second zinc bolt. Any reason why it wouldn't work?

Chad - most likely this happened last weekend. I gave all standard internal stuff an extra coating of Boeshield.

Does it matter that we're in fresh to slightly brackish water?

Thanks

 

[osd9]

Does it matter that we're in fresh to slightly brackish water?

I don't think the type of water makes as big a difference as does how much stray current there is in your marina ....it's best to do something....if you are leaving the boat in the water all winter, then I would pull and fix it now. If you will be pulling the boat for the winter and dry storing, than one of the temporary fixes above should get you by.....

Around here, we can get a short haul (in the sling for a few hours) for reasonable $$$$....I had a short haul early in the season to replace props, and a local yard charged about $125.

 

[Asureyez]

On the way to the forum...

Yes, you can jumper the one buss to the other buss and use the working leg until you get hauled.

I went to the boat yesteray to take a photo of the ER side of the zinc on my boat to add to the discussion. After inch worming back under the generator to get to the back of the aft bilge ... I found a loose ground to the port raw water intake.

Now I've got a fix of my own ....

 

[aquadancer]

I rigged a jumper to the other main bonding wire. Will tie me over till end of season. Permanent fix will involve threaded studs with double nuts on both sides and proper heavy duty tinned copper grounding straps.[/img]