Bravo3 zinc anodes Sierra Vs Mercury

[stelios hondrcolos]

How do you guys feel about Sierra versus Mercury for zinc anodes? Sierra is much cheaper.
I cant believe there is much difference. You can actually buy the Sierra Kit via Home Depot very reasonable

 

[bbwhitejr]

Check out boatzincs.com also.

Bennett

 

[paulswagelock]

Tecnoseal brand have been the least expensive by 30-40% sometimes. I have used them for more than 12 years, maybe 15. Well made, make aluminum and magnesium and zinc, and lower cost. Available many places including Amazon and EBay.

 

[KevinC]

Check out boatzincs.com also.

Bennett

+1 on boatzincs.com

More important is getting the right alloy. In salt you need aluminum. They are very helpful if you have questions.

-Kevin

 

[stelios hondrcolos]

+1 on boatzincs.com

More important is getting the right alloy. In salt you need aluminum. They are very helpful if you have questions.

-Kevin

yes sorry i should have said alum. i still use ‘zinc’ generically from steel prop shaft days

but if the outdrive is alum and the anode is aluminum, is the alum anode just ‘less noble’ aluminum?

 

[KevinC]

yes sorry i should have said alum. i still use ‘zinc’ generically from steel prop shaft days

but if the outdrive is alum and the anode is aluminum, is the alum anode just ‘less noble’ aluminum?

No, that is why it's so important to keep the bravo 3 painted. Also if you don't have the prop anode you can consider adding it. Also always inspect your bonding system ane mercathode.

The unpainted AL anode will give itself up freely protecting the painted housing.

-Kevin

 

[paulswagelock]

Depends. Some aluminum anodes are actually an aluminum alloy and less noble. It will tell you on the package.

 

[dan313]

I always buy aftermarket zincs off of Ebay. Never an issue.

 

[Henry Boyd]

Always relied on Boatzincs.com for bravo iii aluminum anodes for brackish (river mouth harbor) with no issues. But, always had drive well coated with Trilux, Mercathode and bonding system up to snuff, and drive transom ring isolated from hull antifouling paint.

 

[stelios hondrcolos]

Always relied on Boatzincs.com for bravo iii aluminum anodes for brackish (river mouth harbor) with no issues. But, always had drive well coated with Trilux, Mercathode and bonding system up to snuff, and drive transom ring isolated from hull antifouling paint.

i don’t have a mercathode system and i’m in salt water

 

[Henry Boyd]

i don’t have a mercathode system and i’m in salt water

Basically you should be using aluminum. We’re in the river mouth tidal zone so the harbor water is a mix of fresh and salt depending on tide and river flow. We actually operate in salt, New England Atlantic. If you don’t have Mercathode, definitely get the prop anode kit as it increases sacrificial metal. Also give some thought to cleaning the props up and giving them a coat of something, even if it’s just a spray job of rust oleum cold galvanizing paint. Prop kote and the like are pricey, and effective. You just want something to insulate the stainless and reduce the galvanic cell.

 

[stelios hondrcolos]

Basically you should be using aluminum. We’re in the river mouth tidal zone so the harbor water is a mix of fresh and salt depending on tide and river flow. We actually operate in salt, New England Atlantic. If you don’t have Mercathode, definitely get the prop anode kit as it increases sacrificial metal. Also give some thought to cleaning the props up and giving them a coat of something, even if it’s just a spray job of rust oleum cold galvanizing paint. Prop kote and the like are pricey, and effective. You just want something to insulate the stainless and reduce the galvanic cell.

yes i have the hub anode.
i have stainless props. they were uncoated last year and didn’t foul to badly but need some scrubbing.
some suggested a white vinegar soaking works well.

 

[Lazy Daze]

Generally speaking, engine manufacturers have excellent anodes (made to their specs, of course). BUT, check out Performance Metals - they're a step above.

If you don't have the Mercathode system you must have Alpha drives? If you have Bravo's, though, the system is standard.

 

[stelios hondrcolos]

Generally speaking, engine manufacturers have excellent anodes (made to their specs, of course). BUT, check out Performance Metals - they're a step above.




If you don't have the Mercathode system you must have Alpha drives? If you have Bravo's, though, the system is standard.

i guess i have the system but i am in a mooring not a dock. so not the power to run it.

 

[Lazy Daze]

i guess i have the system but i am in a mooring not a dock. so not the power to run it.

It works via DC.

Not sure exactly when it started. Google/search for more specific info, but general testing (other than visually checking interior and exterior components/wiring) is done by looking for about 50 milliamps (depending on the water) between the orange wire and the controller.

 

[stelios hondrcolos]

yes but DC works off of batteries and i don’t have solar panels.

 

[stelios hondrcolos]

I use Martyr, made in USA.

i see Martyr is what West Marine sells now. they don’t even have mercruiser

$63 at West
$35 everywhere else.

 

[Lazy Daze]

yes but DC works off of batteries and i don’t have solar panels.

Correct. But if you have it, it's already working. Turning the battery switches off doesn't turn off the system. That would defeat the purpose.

 

[stelios hondrcolos]

Correct. But if you have it, it's already working. Turning the battery switches off doesn't turn off the system. That would defeat the purpose.

then my batteries would be dead ?

 

[Lazy Daze]

then my batteries would be dead ?

No. Note what I said about the draw. But, again, if you have the system... it's already BEEN working the whole time you've had the boat.