bravo 3 looks ok?

1

1990dtgl98

Member
Sep 21, 2020
37
Boat Info
1999 bowrider
Engines
Mercruiser
So I bought my boat (1999 searay 230br) fall of 2020 and chased a issue keeping it from running. Got that fixed and never got around to pulling the drive.

Warmer weather and I'm finally getting around to remove it. I've only ever had straight inboard so I'm not sure where I'm at here.

Does everything look good?

A couple questions:

1.) Gimbal bearing feels good except for a tiny little spot (pushing down there's a spot with maybe 5* of rotation that feels a little gritty). Overreacting or should I consider changing it?

2.) There's some rust over the u-jounts and shaft. But no pitting. No issues there?

3.) Lower shift cable jaws look rusty. Ok to grease and call it good?

4.) Where the gimbal bearing zerk fitting should be there's just a small threaded nipple. Do I have a sealed gimbal bearing or did something shear

Thanks!

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There are indications of water intrusion, all be it minimal, but it doesn’t take much water to do a lot of damage. First off find the source of the water intrusion and correct the problem.
Regards to your questions…
1. The bearing should be changed.
2. Surface rust on the u joints and yoke is probably ok if the the u joints move with no detectable dragging.
3. Shift cable jaws should not be rusty at all. And if they are moisture has probably made it’s way deeper towards the rear of the outdrive and will affect the detent ball and cause high shift effort which in turn will trash the shift cables.
4. The nipple appears to be a zerk fitting with the nipple broke off which should be replaced.
 
I do have a high shift effort.

I was hoping it was the lower shift cable as taking it off at the engine side freed the shifter.

Is there anything I can grease on the outdrive side?

No dragging with u joints.

I have no aligner for the bearing. Can I just install with a makeshift installer?

Wanderer 290 said:
There are indications of water intrusion, all be it minimal, but it doesn’t take much water to do a lot of damage. First off find the source of the water intrusion and correct the problem.
Regards to your questions…
1. The bearing should be changed.
2. Surface rust on the u joints and yoke is probably ok if the the u joints move with no detectable dragging.
3. Shift cable jaws should not be rusty at all. And if they are moisture has probably made it’s way deeper towards the rear of the outdrive and will affect the detent ball and cause high shift effort which in turn will trash the shift cables.
4. The nipple appears to be a zerk fitting with the nipple broke off which should be replaced.
Click to expand...
 
F73CA2F6-8460-4399-A35B-A22BFD80DA12.jpeg
I believe you do not need an “aligner”.
An installer yes but that is easy to make.
Grease might relieve the effort but only for a while.
Remove the cover indicated in the pic for further diagnosis..
 
A common error new Bravo owners make is trying to shift them with the engine shut down. The engine needs to be running or the effort to do so will be great. It can also damage and/or throw the shift adjustment/linkage out. Agree with Wanderer to remove back cover and clean/lubricate detent.
If the gimbal bearing has any roughness to it then it should be replaced. Not trying to spook you but it can be catastrophic if it fail under way. I replace mine every few hundred hours (seasons) just because I have the tooling and they are not overly expensive. The new bearings that are supplied are "lifetime" sealed. They come with a plug to replace that grease fitting.
I would not be worried about the appearance of the u-joints or drive shaft. Don't degrease them, just wipe off the excessive grease so further corrosion is kept to minimal. Check the crosses for side to side play in the cups. Excessive wear will cause a vibration. There should also be O rings on the 2 grooves cut in the drive shaft.
 
Thornton69 said:
A common error new Bravo owners make is trying to shift them with the engine shut down. The engine needs to be running or the effort to do so will be great. It can also damage and/or throw the shift adjustment/linkage out. Agree with Wanderer to remove back cover and clean/lubricate detent.
If the gimbal bearing has any roughness to it then it should be replaced. Not trying to spook you but it can be catastrophic if it fail under way. I replace mine every few hundred hours (seasons) just because I have the tooling and they are not overly expensive. The new bearings that are supplied are "lifetime" sealed. They come with a plug to replace that grease fitting.
I would not be worried about the appearance of the u-joints or drive shaft. Don't degrease them, just wipe off the excessive grease so further corrosion is kept to minimal. Check the crosses for side to side play in the cups. Excessive wear will cause a vibration. There should also be O rings on the 2 grooves cut in the drive shaft.
Click to expand...

I have read about that on bravo 3 and haven't done it....but who knows with the previous owners. The boat only has 450 hours on it.

He did say the bellows were replaced 5 years ago (and they seem in good condition, soft, no dry rot or anything flaking). I'm an auto mechanic, if I felt a wheel bearing like that I would be fine to drive it. I wasn't sure how sensitive I needed to be with gimbal bearings. There's not growling, no play side to side or front to back. Smooth spinning it. There's only 1 tiny spot if I put downward pressure on the bearing and spin that comes up for like 5* (but only with pressure.. nothing felt just spinning).
 
Being a mechanic, you can decide what your own comfort zone is. Mine is zero for "gritty", as you described it for the gimbal or any wheel bearings for that matter. Any time the outdrive is trimmed or steered off center, the radial forces on that bearing will increase.
If it hasn't been mentioned, an engine alignment tool is well worth it's cost when doing your own work. You likely have connections with a machine shop. You can get them to whip one up for $100 or less for you. Here is the drawing I gave them when doing mine. I had it extend it to about 4' for easier installations.
Mercruiser Aligment Tool.png
 
The bars are cheap enough on line and come with the attachment to install the gimbal bearing
 
You certainly have had moister where there should be zero and the detent ball and housing definitely needs replaced.
So next is to find the leak. The o ring that goes between the outdrive and bell housing around the shift cable/shift mechanism is suspect.
But definitely verify the source of the leak because water in that location can easily migrate into other parts of the outdrive. With the evidence presented change the outdrive oil and monitor.
 
Wire wheel the socket end off and lube those linkages then as well?
 
Wanderer 290 said:
Are you calling the detent ball and housing the “socket”?
The detent ball assembly needs replaced.
Click to expand...

I'm talking the drive side vs the cover plate side. Replace the ball and spring on the cover side? The ball isn't pitted and it moves freely, just dirty, but there's still a lot of green grease on it.

The drive side that has the metal piece the ball rides on for the gear selection (assuming to not accidently knock it out of gear?)(not sure the correct terminology). That is dirty and looks even worse, but spraying it and cleaning it doesn't look pitted and it moves freely. Is that ok to just clean and re-grease (including the pivot points to the shift cable)? Or is that the piece you recommended to replace?
 
That is the bell crank you reference on the outdrive. Cleaning and lubing should be fine.
I do recommend changing the detent ball though. Just a little rust or contamination will increase shifting force substantially.
 
You've been a wealth of info!

Some more questions:

1.) How do I get that detent out? Seems press fitted in?

2.) My zerk fitting in seized in. I tried chiseling it out but it won't release, and I can't get in between the hull to drill. However, new gimbal bearings are sealed(?), so I should be ok to leave it and not actually get it out?

3.) To piggyback above, do I need to worry about the gimbal seal if the new ones are a sealed unit? Can't see it as the old bearing isn't out, but it feels fine. But I'm thinking it doesn't really matter for a non greaseable one.

4.) It appears my shift cable is seized in the gimbal. The core is out, the drive side nut is out, it won't move. I always get hesitant to hammer something out of aluminum too hard. Soak in pb blaster and hammer away?
 
Ok soooo..
1. The detent is slip fit and given no corrosion it typically just slides out. Gonna have figure something out locally.
2. If the zerk is water tight then you maybe ok leaving it in but given the fact there is evidence of water penetration maybe that is the problem?
3. Not sure what you mean about the “gimbal seal”?
4. The bell housing is easily removed with a tool and it may be necessary to extract the shift cable housing. If that route is necessary changing the bellows will be also be nec….

Apparently the boat is a salt water boat?
 
Wanderer 290 said:
Ok soooo..
1. The detent is slip fit and given no corrosion it typically just slides out. Gonna have figure something out locally.
2. If the zerk is water tight then you maybe ok leaving it in but given the fact there is evidence of water penetration maybe that is the problem?
3. Not sure what you mean about the “gimbal seal”?
4. The bell housing is easily removed with a tool and it may be necessary to extract the shift cable housing. If that route is necessary changing the bellows will be also be nec….

Apparently the boat is a salt water boat?
Click to expand...
 
Yes you don't need that gimbal seal with a sealed bearing. Just seal that broken zerk with 5200 or similar. That cable can be knocked out.
 
Sorry...the gimbal bearing seal behind the bearing.

I've only had it in freshwater but he said he has had it in saltwater for a couple seasons. Only 509 hours on the boat total.

I think the water intrusion was the shift cable seal. It practically disintegrated on removal. The drive bellow, gear oil, and bearing all look good.
 
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