Bravo 1 prop shaft seal replacement?

[CAGE RATTLER]

I have oil leaking from my outdrive and hope its just the prop shaft seals.
Does anyone know if the seals can be replaced without pulling the drive or splitting the drive?

from what ive researched i believe I will need a special tool (bearing carrier nut wrench) to remove the bearing carrier that the seals are in.
can the carrier be removed with the drive on the boat? does the prop shaft just slide out after removing the carrier?

any info would be appreciated

 

[Bt Doctur]

 

[Bt Doctur]

It appears you can remove the carrier assembly from the shaft. unlock tabe #24,
#25: drill 2 1/4 holes thru the ring to the SS lock plate, break the section out, remove remainingg section of ring.
use puller to remove carrier.
replace O ring #16

 

[CAGE RATTLER]

Thanks for the reply
After some more research I found that you need to seperate the lower from the upper to properly change the shaft seals.
Actually it could be done without removing the drive but you wont be able to set the rolling resistance or bearing pre-load without seperating the drive.

If anyone else is wanting to do some DIY maintenance and repairs to your outdrives this is a site I found with good info and videos.
With these videos, the proper tools and a repair manual, I'm ready to re-seal my drive.

http://www.bravoone.slantpower.com/home

 

[Bt Doctur]

"Actually it could be done without removing the drive but you wont be able to set the rolling resistance or bearing pre-load without seperating the drive"

That is done in the upper unit not the lower unit. You asked about "prop seals" #17 in the link.. Bravo uses O ring seal between the units ,not seals.
the other "seal" is the carrier seal on the input shaft

 

[CAGE RATTLER]

Dont want to argue with you but everything i've read (mercruiser repair manual #28) and also from watching the videos in the link I posted above shows the rolling resistance/bearing pre-load needs to be done on the lower (at the drive shaft and the prop shaft). Setting the rolling resistance is how you determine how much to tighten the bearing carrier retaining nut.

Its all a moot point though because the leak I had, which I thought might be the prop shaft seals, wound up just being a leak at the trim ram connection which was easily fixed by just tightening the nut.

 

[Bt Doctur]

better re-read 3B-32 again, shows the carrier nut #25 torqued to 150 Ft/lbs

 

[Bt Doctur]

manual 11 is bravo, these are view only but pages copy is ok.
http://boatinfo.no/lib/library.html

 

[CAGE RATTLER]

Here is a better version of manual 11 if you need it. Couldnt find anything on the site you posted.

I see what you were talking about now. torquing down to 150# is for bravo1's with shims.
read pages 3B-37 thru 39 and you see that bravo1's with a load ring (crushable washer) instead of shims need to have the bearing carrier retaining nut tightened in small increments till you reach the proper rolling resistance to preload the bearings.

There is way to many versions of these drives!!