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There are 2 seal strips where the front and back of manifold meet the block. The intersection of where the intake gaskets meet those 2 strips is where it usually leaks. Replace intake gaskets, those 2 strips and add a blob of form a gasket at that intersection assuring it gets under the gaskets, too, to fill where the heads meet the block (that is usually the source of the leak).Thanks Scott. So the Intake manifold gasket is the culprit? I’ll order one asap.
That metal plate blocks the heat crossover in the manifold. Not uncommon.
Not sure that one in the screen shot will do (if your heads are the same as pic), as it neither blocks it off, or seals the crossover. Can see it splits it in the middle. That gasket is the wrong one for that head in the pic.
Show a pic of your heads without the manifold so we can see what is actually there.
Enter your serial # here https://public-mercurymarine.sysonl...est&NA_KEY=NA_KEY_VALUE&langIF=eng&langDB=engEvery picture I try to upload.. I keep getting a message that the file is too large. I tried 10x and gave up.
that small passage under the metal plate isn’t a passage at all. It’s a cutout about an inch deep. Under the top of the manifold itself are no cutouts at all.
That small passage is originally for intake manifold heat. I don't think the marine manifolds use that feature.Every picture I try to upload.. I keep getting a message that the file is too large. I tried 10x and gave up.
that small passage under the metal plate isn’t a passage at all. It’s a cutout about an inch deep. Under the top of the manifold itself are no cutouts at all.
Also the oil pressure sender is back behind the manifold next to the distributor and they can leak causing the exact same conditions you are experiencing. So, check that out also.That small passage is originally for intake manifold heat. I don't think the marine manifolds use that feature.
Use Permatex Right Stuff for the end seals gasket maker. Other gasket makers just will not last in a hot oil environment.
It is essential that the surfaces be squeaky clean. Final wipe-down I use acetone on a white rag to make sure.
Dry-fit the manifold and check how big the end gaps are which will guide you on the bead size of the Right Stuff. I have seen anywhere from 1/32-inch to almost 1/4-inch in that gap. You should be in the smaller gap range as the components are OEM.
Again, for the gasket maker to adhere to the surfaces they need to be super clean.
I install the manifold and lightly tighten the bolts. Then allow a couple of hours for the gasket maker to set up and then torque the bolts down.
After all that work.. unfortunately no luck. Somehow this motor is still spitting oil. New valve cover and intake gaskets. This is a complete mystery to me. Well, the season is pretty much over so I think it’s time for the boat doctor to step in.. Unless anyone has any ideas…. It seems to be spitting out all over the starter and even onto the dividing wall(see photos)All set. Everything back together and started right up. No visible leaks while running. Once I get back to the lake I know for sure. Thanks again and I will keep y’all posted
After all that work.. unfortunately no luck. Somehow this motor is still spitting oil. New valve cover and intake gaskets. This is a complete mystery to me. Well, the season is pretty much over so I think it’s time for the boat doctor to step in.. Unless anyone has any ideas…. It seems to be spitting out all over the starter and even onto the dividing wall(see photos)
After all that work.. unfortunately no luck. Somehow this motor is still spitting oil. New valve cover and intake gaskets. This is a complete mystery to me. Well, the season is pretty much over so I think it’s time for the boat doctor to step in.. Unless anyone has any ideas…. It seems to be spitting out all over the starter and even onto the dividing wall(see photos)