Bow rest rubbing off bottom paint

Scott215 said:
I seen soany people screw up doing that and end up sideways and back into other boat. It's just not for me
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That's on them, though. Because they're doing it wrong doesn't mean it can't be done if someone knows what they're doing, though. This doesn't mean YOU should change what you do - you do what you like to do :)
 
Are ramp is like 30 feet wide,so you can have 2 trucks backed in or coming out and then a ton of prop wash. It like a washing machine and screws up everything. And some idiot comes in the middle and pwerloads it's a real mess
 
I'm trying to figure out how that would even happen, lol. Everybody is different and everybody should do what works for them. I know when I power load, my boat is obviously tied to the dock so I can go get the truck and trailer. I put the trailer in where it needs to be and then get back on the boat and put it in and out of gear a couple times. So I slowly get up to the trailer until I'm lined up and feel the trailer, then I power load on.
 
Yeah that sounds like it's on the person and not because of power loading. Not saying power loading doesn't cause problems but if you use common sense about it then it's easy peasy.
 
Scott215 said:
Are ramp is like 30 feet wide,so you can have 2 trucks backed in or coming out and then a ton of prop wash. It like a washing machine and screws up everything. And some idiot comes in the middle and pwerloads it's a real mess
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Thank you for that.

I would NEVER attempt to load next to someone else that's in the process of loading - whether powerloading or not. That's just asking for an accident. Always wait for the person next to you to be on the trailer enough that you know they're not backing off again.

Prop wash from powerloading dissipates rather quickly - just wait another 20 seconds and it's gone.

I obviously can't speak to specific conditions (or other boaters) at your ramp, but I use 3-lane ramps (and smaller/bigger) and have never been affected by someone else powerloading and I'm cognisant of my propwash to not affect others, either.

But, again, this isn't about what a particular person should or shouldn't do - the morale of the story here is that there is nothing wrong with powerloading when some common sense is used.
 
Lazy Daze said:
That's on them, though. Because they're doing it wrong doesn't mean it can't be done if someone knows what they're doing, though. This doesn't mean YOU should change what you do - you do what you like to do :)
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I'm starting to understand now....like if you aren't good at backing a trailer down to the boat, there's other ways...:cool:
 
That's how I take my boat out of the water all the time I buy like two props a week
 
I think the solution has been stated but essentially either those forward bunks need to be raised or the main bunks can be slightly angled towards the keel to ultimately cause the front of the boat to raise up. You may need to change the bunk hardware. You can experiment but the deeper you unload the boat, the more it can exacerbate the interference with the anchor. Try unloading with less of the trailer in the water. There is a balance. Spray paint a marker on your fender after you find the sweet spot. It's easy to see in your mirror. I fought the same thing with a boat that had a checked hull. It was tide dependent to unload. I had to be floated off the trailer. It would not slide off due to the hull check.
 
I'm definitely going to be changing to that bowel roller that someone mentioned instead of the carpeted bow bunks it's a lot easier and it will keep my bow up a little bit more and it's adjustable so I'm going to get rid of my carpeted bunks
 
I've tried different ways, angles, trailer depth. Unless it's in a certain amount, I cannot push or pull the boat off the trailer.

I was advised against the keel roller and was told to try the target bunks instead. The front of the main bunks have already been raised up when the trailer was set up for the boat. I'm thinking the main problem is that since I have to put the trailer in the water so deep that the stern is floating and the bow is coming down, I need something to hold about upwards. That's where the target bumps are going to come in.
 
Raise the trailer bunks
 
I've tried different ways, angles, trailer depth. Unless it's in a certain amount, I cannot push or pull the boat off the trailer.

I was advised against the keel roller and was told to try the target bunks instead. The front of the main bunks have already been raised up when the trailer was set up for the boat. I'm thinking the main problem is that since I have to put the trailer in the water so deep that the stern is floating and the bow is coming down, I need something to hold about upwards. That's where the target bumps are going to come in
 
MHorn0817 said:
I'm thinking the main problem is . . . that the stern is floating and the bow is coming down, I need something to hold about upwards. That's where the target bumps are going to come in
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I believe you've identified the crux of the problem. Now hold that thought . . .
MHorn0817 said:
The front of the main bunks have already been raised up when the trailer was set up for the boat.
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The next realization that you should arrive at, is that the trailer was NEVER PROPERLY set up for your boat to start with. If it had been, you would have been heartburn free after purchasing your trailer and this thread would not exist.

It does not matter if you use a bow roller or targeting bunks; in either case the setting/mounting of the existing main bunks will need to be adjusted to match the 'new, corrected attitude' of how the boat sits on the trailer.

Remember that your need, intent and desire is to raise the bow as the boat sits on the trailer.
As such, regardless of which method you use, the front of the stem will then be higher, and the front of the main bunks will need to be raised sufficiently to bear weight across their entire length.
You do NOT WANT the weight of the hull sitting only on the forward roller or bunks and the back of the main bunks.

The fact that the forward end of the existing bunks will need to be raised, could well be a contributing factor in your boat's desire to stay on the trailer rather than to slide off.
 
My suggestion...raise those forward bunks up all the way so they're against the hull. There's nothing wrong with having that bow stop, just that the one you have does not fit your hull shape. Even if you want to stick with using a bow stop those forward bunks benefit you.

If you look at your pics you can see the bow still comes in low, you can see the scuff marks that your new bow stop makes. That's because nothing has been done to change the boats attitude approaching the stop.

Raise those front bunks and modify your bow rest/stop so it fits the shape of your hull and your good to go.
stop.jpg

stop2.jpg
 
By the way, when we say raise the front bunks, it may require jacking from the keel to physically raise it off the bunks. Then you bring up the bunks. You're probably not going to get the required result simply by matching the bunks to the existing boat attitude.
 
douglee25 said:
By the way, when we say raise the front bunks, it may require jacking from the keel to physically raise it off the bunks. Then you bring up the bunks. You're probably not going to get the required result simply by matching the bunks to the existing boat attitude.
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He said those front ones are a few inches below the boat. Just raising them up to the boat would be a good start...and maybe enough.
 
Woody said:
He said those front ones are a few inches below the boat. Just raising them up to the boat would be a good start...and maybe enough.
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I saw that in one post and in another he said they were as high as they go? So I'm confused?
 
Might have to get a bigger bracket a taller bracket to raise the front of the bunk up more
 
I have three adjustments on the front and rear of my bunks he could go down in the back and all the way up in the front or get a taller bracket for the front of the boat or take it back to where he got the trailer and explain the issue I'm sure there's something that they can do to reset it up for him
 
The front of the main bunks are raised up. The current front V bunk guide is not adjustable, unless I shim it way up. That's why I was going to get the front target bunks that are adjustable. That way the bow does not nose dive and hit the stand, coming on and off the trailer... Hopefully
 
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