Bottom paint question
- Thread starter Rayray
- Start date
estebanj
New Member
If it has a B3 drive and saltwater, hoisting is a better option.
Cost to paint will depend on type of paint (single vs. multi season), and quality of it.
You also need to prep the bottom (paint won't stick to smooth f/glass) and take into account tools you'll need (tarp, respirator, tape, etc.)
Many people do it this themselves, but I have found reasonable prices paying the marina to do it. If of course depends on your marina and their rates. Ask them for a quote.
If you're gonna keep it in the water, make sure all anodes are in good condition, check them regularly and also make sure your mercathode system is working OK.
Esteban
Cost to paint will depend on type of paint (single vs. multi season), and quality of it.
You also need to prep the bottom (paint won't stick to smooth f/glass) and take into account tools you'll need (tarp, respirator, tape, etc.)
Many people do it this themselves, but I have found reasonable prices paying the marina to do it. If of course depends on your marina and their rates. Ask them for a quote.
If you're gonna keep it in the water, make sure all anodes are in good condition, check them regularly and also make sure your mercathode system is working OK.
Esteban
I recently had a quote of $800 to do mine (it has the factory bottom paint already). That includes sanding, and a fresh coat of ablative paint.
Well. . .my dealer CHARGED me $1100 for bottom paint (no sanding, crappy non-ablative paint), zincs, and outdrives for my 280SS.
This year, with more time on my hands, I got the job done for about $250 ($100 bottom paint, $50 for outdrive paint, plus $100 in zinc) plus 6 hours of personal labor.
But the REAL issue is not the cost of bottom paint.
If you are in Salt, the real issue is engine and riser corrossion. In salt water, every 3-7 years you are looking at a complete riser / manifold replacement ($2500?); even if you have closed cooling. If you don't have closed cooling. . .factor in a engine replacement at about year 10-14.
If you have a lift, you can do a fresh water flush of the entire system after every use. This will dramatically improve system life.
Some people will swear by flush kits for the engines. Others don't.
_ _ _ _ _ _ _ __
I looked long and hard at lifts.
There are a few cons to lifts:
1) You buy a lift for a specific capacity. A bigger boat will require a bigger lift. The lift you buy for a 26DA won't work for a 32DA. Plus. . .are you parrellel to a bulkhead, or in a slip? What is behind/in front of your boat?
2) Hydrohoist. . .that's not a mechanical lift? Is that one where water gets pumped in/out? You need to understand the potential for failure modes for the lift and if a "partial failure" can put your stern underwater with the bow up in the air.
3)In my area, they charge $8500 for a $5000 lift. Plus $2500 installation (inc piles). Plus $2500 state permit. $500 survey for state permit. Electrical work were going to be about $2000. Plus 7% sales tax. Plus a few other things I forget at the moment. By the time the build up was done, a complete twin powerplant replacement didn't seem so expensive afterall :smt009
This year, with more time on my hands, I got the job done for about $250 ($100 bottom paint, $50 for outdrive paint, plus $100 in zinc) plus 6 hours of personal labor.
But the REAL issue is not the cost of bottom paint.
If you are in Salt, the real issue is engine and riser corrossion. In salt water, every 3-7 years you are looking at a complete riser / manifold replacement ($2500?); even if you have closed cooling. If you don't have closed cooling. . .factor in a engine replacement at about year 10-14.
If you have a lift, you can do a fresh water flush of the entire system after every use. This will dramatically improve system life.
Some people will swear by flush kits for the engines. Others don't.
_ _ _ _ _ _ _ __
I looked long and hard at lifts.
There are a few cons to lifts:
1) You buy a lift for a specific capacity. A bigger boat will require a bigger lift. The lift you buy for a 26DA won't work for a 32DA. Plus. . .are you parrellel to a bulkhead, or in a slip? What is behind/in front of your boat?
2) Hydrohoist. . .that's not a mechanical lift? Is that one where water gets pumped in/out? You need to understand the potential for failure modes for the lift and if a "partial failure" can put your stern underwater with the bow up in the air.
3)In my area, they charge $8500 for a $5000 lift. Plus $2500 installation (inc piles). Plus $2500 state permit. $500 survey for state permit. Electrical work were going to be about $2000. Plus 7% sales tax. Plus a few other things I forget at the moment. By the time the build up was done, a complete twin powerplant replacement didn't seem so expensive afterall :smt009
Dave S said:
The price around here is approx $14/ft.
That being said boats with ablative bottom paint should not need to be sanded between coats. The ablative paints wear off by design and should not be chipping off unless the surface was not prepared correctly the first time. At least that is my experience.
- Oct 6, 2006
- 12,156
- Boat Info
- 1996 450DA
- Engines
- 3116 Caterpillars
If you will notice, your answers varied all over the place becasue you didn't give us a location.
There are significant differences in pros and cons of bottom paint vs. lifts depending upon whether or not you are in a salt water location or not.
Additionally, the cost of bottom painting is somewhat tied to enviornmental considerations and a whole bunch tied to how well the boat is prepared for paint. Where we are, the state enviornmental police strictly control sanding and run off from bottom paint areas so all sanders have vacuum attachments and you cannot paint over bare ground. A properly prepared bottom will be sances, washed, primed with multiple coats of epoxy primer them multiple coats of bottom paint. We pay as much as $60/ft for a properly prepared and painted bottom that will last 3+ years in salt water with minimum maintenance.
A $14/ft paint job will get you one coat of paint slapped on a bare bottom that probably wouldn't last a year....and that may be ok if you are in a location where you haul out for winter and have time to paint yourself durint your lay up. For us in the south, the boating is a 12 month a year activity and it takes a good bit more than a minimum paint job to hold up.
There are significant differences in pros and cons of bottom paint vs. lifts depending upon whether or not you are in a salt water location or not.
Additionally, the cost of bottom painting is somewhat tied to enviornmental considerations and a whole bunch tied to how well the boat is prepared for paint. Where we are, the state enviornmental police strictly control sanding and run off from bottom paint areas so all sanders have vacuum attachments and you cannot paint over bare ground. A properly prepared bottom will be sances, washed, primed with multiple coats of epoxy primer them multiple coats of bottom paint. We pay as much as $60/ft for a properly prepared and painted bottom that will last 3+ years in salt water with minimum maintenance.
A $14/ft paint job will get you one coat of paint slapped on a bare bottom that probably wouldn't last a year....and that may be ok if you are in a location where you haul out for winter and have time to paint yourself durint your lay up. For us in the south, the boating is a 12 month a year activity and it takes a good bit more than a minimum paint job to hold up.
barryg
Member
- Jun 24, 2007
- 966
- Boat Info
- 2005 320 Sundancer, Garmin 5208
- Engines
- Twin V-Drives 350 Mags
Bottom Paint
I know on smaller boats (that are trailerable) it sometimes detracts from the value of the boat to have it bottom painted. When I had my 26' Doral I/O I saw this "boat bunker" thing at the Miami and Fort Lauderdale Boat show and decided to buy one.(It was cheaper than a lift and the idea was interesting) I left my boat in it unpainted for a year and except for a little dirt on the hull, there was no growth on the hull or outdrive. You treat the water with enzymes and since no oxygen is in the water, nothing can grow.
Even though the 2005 320 I now own was bottom painted before I bought it , I bought another larger boat bunker so the paint will last longer and I won't have any growth on the shafts or props as well. I know they are in the process of working out a deal with the SR Owners club and they are good guys. Just another idea to think about...
I know on smaller boats (that are trailerable) it sometimes detracts from the value of the boat to have it bottom painted. When I had my 26' Doral I/O I saw this "boat bunker" thing at the Miami and Fort Lauderdale Boat show and decided to buy one.(It was cheaper than a lift and the idea was interesting) I left my boat in it unpainted for a year and except for a little dirt on the hull, there was no growth on the hull or outdrive. You treat the water with enzymes and since no oxygen is in the water, nothing can grow.
Even though the 2005 320 I now own was bottom painted before I bought it , I bought another larger boat bunker so the paint will last longer and I won't have any growth on the shafts or props as well. I know they are in the process of working out a deal with the SR Owners club and they are good guys. Just another idea to think about...
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