Bonding wire terminal break

Four Suns

Not a pot stirrer
TECHNICAL Contributor
Oct 4, 2006
10,533
Williamsburg, VA
Boat Info
2003 480 DB
Engines
QSM-11 Diesels
The weather here was really nice today. They have a new seacock installed for my macerator so it'll be a few days to let it all cure.

I was going through the engine room and bilge and checking all the bonding wire connections today (one of many things I was doing) and two of the bonding wire connections have deteriorated. The one that was troublesome was for the Airmar depth transducer body. It's a bronze tube and the transducer slides into the thing. There is also one like it for the speed wheel.

Anyway, the bronze bodies of these transducers, as well as the seacocks for the the main engines and 3 of the AC units is in the sump area. This means that sometimes saltwater sits on these things and there is a bonding wire connection at each base. The wires have simple crimps (no shrink tubing) on them with ring terminals and there is a terminal screw on each of the bases.

Two things have happened. The wire for the ring crimp terminals is exposed and the exposed wire in the crimps is not looking too healthy. They did not use shrink wrap connectors for some reason... Even though they could be submerged in saltwater... I am going to strip back to fresh wire and recrimp all the wires with heat shrink connecters for these bases.

The other thing that has happened is the terminal screw on the transducer housing had the head break off... So a new hole is needed and will have to be drilled and tapped in the housing and a new terminal screw installed. Does anyone know what this terminal screw on these bronze fittings is made from? Is it bronze? Can a stainless screw be used? Another one that broke like this was on one of the small strainers... new hole/tap for that one as well.
 
I am not sure what the original ones are made of but I am pretty sure stailess can be screwed to bronze without any issues. May put a dab of silicon or an electrical sealing compound like 3M Skotchkote or something on the connection when complete and maybe it will protect it better.

As a matter of fact, I should bring a small can of Skotchkote to the boat just to help better protect electrical connections. It is gooey but is made for splices in outdoor and underground wiring.
 
E-Z out won't work to remove the busted bolt?

I don't I would call this a bolt... it's a small screw.

The seacocks have their bonding wires hook to one of the bolts on the flange.. but this doesn't have that so there is a small terminal screw...
 
If it's too small for a screw extractor, couple of things I'd consider;

If there's any shank at all showing, trying to get a pair of locking pliers on it.

Grind a groove into the top of the shank that's showing (with a Dremel) and you might get a teeny flathead screwdriver into it?

Just drill it out; and then re-tap the hole.

My Groco FBV seacocks have a small stainless hex bolt in the base for bonding:
bv-09-wv-mr.jpg
 
So a new hole is needed and will have to be drilled and tapped in the housing and a new terminal screw installed. Does anyone know what this terminal screw on these bronze fittings is made from? Is it bronze? Can a stainless screw be used? Another one that broke like this was on one of the small strainers... new hole/tap for that one as well.

The less dissimilar metals the better. Especially since, as you say, it sits in salt water much of the time. Many will use SS (at least use 316 - never 304). The best thing would be to use silicone bronze screws. Places like Jamestown Distributors carry a good selection.

Take it easy putting the new screw in so you don't snap the head off. You might want to run a regular steel screw (of the same size) in first.
 
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If in fact the screw is stainless I've never had any luck drilling stainless so I doubt an extractor will work. Garys original plan to start with a new hole is best. When I have to do it I will use bronze screws.

Jack
 

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