Boating basics: how to fasten a line to a cleat

berth control

berth control

New Member
Nov 16, 2008
886
Saugatuck, MI
Boat Info
1985 270 Sundancer
Engines
3.7 liter Mercruisers
So I put the boat in the water the other day and a couple "boating" buddies gave me a hand. When we got to the dock they fastened lines to the dock cleats, in a couple odd ways. I've seen lots of people do lots of different things when tieing up, here's what I do:

On the boat end - run the loop of the dock line through the center of the cleat and then around each horn.

On the dock cleat - run the rope through the center of the cleat, make a half wrap around one horn, then make at least three more wraps, alternating sides of the cleat, twisting the loop each wrap so the line cinches when pulled on. (sorry, I can't draw a picture)

I've seen people not run the line through the center, and I've seen lots of people tie a knot after the wraps, and I've seen people only "hitch" the line on the last wrap. Wondering what you guys do, and what's the "right" way.
 
This is very situational... if you're tying up to a fuel dock or launch ramp (i.e. temporary) then I would agree to put the looped end on the boat and the bitter end on the dock. In my permanent slip, I do it the other way around so I can make any needed adjustments from the boat. The lines are taped to mark their ideal starting position.

As far as running the line through the hole in the cleat... I see no need for that and don't do that in practice. Instead, I put a wrap around the cleat before beginning the alternating wraps around the horns. Also, I don't wrap the entire length of the line around the cleat, just enough to secure the boat and then I coil the remainder. This habit is probably a hold-over from my sailing days where constant adjustment is needed to lines, so the ease of adjustment (while insuring the line is secure) is paramount.

Lastly, the one thing that cheeses me off is when people do not secure the last wrap properly so it makes a true figure 8, like this:
secure.gif


All of this, of course, is just opinion. The bottom line is if the boat doesn't float away, and you can undo or adjust what you did quickly and easily, then pick a method that works for you and be able to do it without thinking.
 
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I got this on line, I didn't know how to put it in my own words.
Illustration www.animatedknots.com/cleat/index.php?LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animatedknots.com
Step1

Loop a line strong enough to hold your boat around the base of the boat cleat. If the line is not strong enough, you may return to the dock to find a stretch of water where your boat used to float.
Step2
Bring the line up around one end, or horn, of the cleat. Pass it across the top of the cleat and back toward the other horn.
Step3
Pass the line under the second horn. Bring it back across the cleat in the opposite direction from the last cross you made. You should now have a figure eight on top of the cleat.
Step4
Carry the line around the first horn a second time, and then back toward the second horn, crossing the cleat again.
Step5
Make a loop with the end of the line. Roll the end of the line under and loop it over the second horn, pulling the end of the line parallel with the figure eight.
Step6
Pull the line taught.
 
festivus44 said:
.....................
Lastly, the one thing that cheeses me off is when people do not secure the last wrap properly so it makes a true figure 8, like this:
secure.gif


.......
Click to expand...

Tim:

I agree with the way you illustrated and I do the same. However, in the link by B-fitting, it says that the 'ragboaters' and 'professionals' condemm the use of the locking hitch on a last turn....


No Locking Hitch: Several Skippers have written to say that when towing, and on professionally crewed sailing vessels, a final locking hitch is never used. Omitting this locking hitch: 1) reduces the chance of a jam; 2) facilitates undoing a line in a hurry; and 3) enhances uniformity of practice. However, on small yachts loads are smaller, jams are rare, and the locking turn is in widespread use. Nevertheless, if professional experience condemns the use of a locking turn, it suggests that the rest of us would be wise to learn to cleat a rope without it too!
 
I can see that when towing that line is going to be really tight. But tying up to a dock is far from towing a 20,000 pound 40' cruiser.

Best regards,
Frank
 
The only time I run the line through the eye of the cleat is when we are closing the boat up for the weekend and it will be staying on the mooring unattended. The rest of the time I'm with Scott, the line should be set on the cleat whether dock, or boat so that it can be removed as quickly and cleanly as possible.

Henry
 
osd9 said:
Tim:

I agree with the way you illustrated and I do the same. However, in the link by B-fitting, it says that the 'ragboaters' and 'professionals' condemm the use of the locking hitch on a last turn....


No Locking Hitch: Several Skippers have written to say that when towing, and on professionally crewed sailing vessels, a final locking hitch is never used. Omitting this locking hitch: 1) reduces the chance of a jam; 2) facilitates undoing a line in a hurry; and 3) enhances uniformity of practice. However, on small yachts loads are smaller, jams are rare, and the locking turn is in widespread use. Nevertheless, if professional experience condemns the use of a locking turn, it suggests that the rest of us would be wise to learn to cleat a rope without it too!
Click to expand...
Completely agree vis-a-vis towing and professionally crewed sailboats. I am neither (Lord willing).
 
The illustrated line to cleat diagram as posted by Festivius is THE only manner acceptable. Some additional requiremnets should also be noted.

1. The standing end of the line should be run "fair" from the dock or piling to the cleat. This will typically mean the line will wrap around the base of the cleat from the back of the cleat ... from the outside of the boat. This allows the line to experience the least amount of chafe from the gunnel.

2. The finish on the line, once cleated, is best accompished by wrapping the bitter end around the base of the cleat to shorten the bitter end so as to allow the drape of the last 18-24 inchs over the gunnel and allowed it to hang free below the deck level. Looks a little less tidy, yes, but for one really great reason is worth the affront. The line will allow any water from boat washing and rain that gets in to the line to drip overboard by means of capillary action (siphon). Water and the dirt in it run down the line and into the water. The effect of this is to keep the decks clean. Thats right, leave the lines so tied and when you remove them a week or a month later, the deck is perfectly clean under the line. Yes it will be clean, no black ring of industrial waste left under the cleated line. Shazaam. Try it you'll thank me!

Do this and the Old Salts will give you a quiet nob for being in the know.
 
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Do this and the Old Salts will give you a quiet nob for being in the know.

Chad, I think I would rather have a quite NOD from an Old Salt........."not that there's anything wrong with that"
 
Good thread on a simple thing. I agree with the Festivus illustration. It makes me nuts when due to wind, waves or just being shorthanded you want to get away from a dock quick and you find the last line was cleated with 3 locking hitches.
 
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I am with Festivus on the hitch. NO need for any more at least as far as I am concerned.... Also HATE if its not like that, have the crew trained to the correct method of a hitch... Must stem from my sailing period that I am currently seeking help with.... I am guessing that Festivus also coils the rope and hangs the coil over the bow rail... Another sailing thing that I found myself doing yesterday also....

As for permanent dock lines I was on the fence. As we just spent the day yesterday reversing our lines from having the bitter end on the boat cleat to having the eye on the cleat and the bitter end on the piling. Since its our home dock lines that don't come off until the end of the season I wanted a no questions asked on where to start the wrap on the bow... I though of going the tape route as a guide... But with the tides only being a bit over a ft. on the sissy part of the Bay I reversed the line...

I might change it back once the crew get comfortable with it... I do like the freedom of ease of adjustment directly...
 
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I have heard that one should never cast the loop end to someone on a dock when face docking, always give them the bitter end. The reason I was told was they might hook the loop on the cleat, and ... I did not get the rest of the logic behind this...any comments about this logic?
 
Alegria said:
I am with Festivus on the hitch. NO need for any more at least as far as I am concerned.... Also HATE if its not like that, have the crew trained to the correct method of a hitch... Must stem from my sailing period that I am currently seeking help with.... I am guessing that Festivus also coils the rope and hangs the coil over the bow rail... Another sailing thing that I found myself doing yesterday also....

As for permanent dock lines I was on the fence. As we just spent the day yesterday reversing our lines from having the bitter end on the boat cleat to having the eye on the cleat and the bitter end on the piling. Since its our home dock lines that don't come off until the end of the season I wanted a no questions asked on where to start the wrap on the bow... I though of going the tape route as a guide... But with the tides only being a bit over a ft. on the sissy part of the Bay I reversed the line...

I might change it back once the crew get comfortable with it... I do like the freedom of ease of adjustment directly...
Click to expand...

My permanent dock lines have the bitter end on the dock cleat. It makes launching and docking far easier.
 
Pseudomind...I thought it was never cast an unsecured line to the dock. Use the loop end on the boat first, then throw the bitter end which should be easier to cleat on the dock anyway.
 
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For my home dock (boathouse) I attach the loop end to boat's cleats. Leaving other attached all the time.... Easy off and when returning... quick and easy on. :thumbsup:
 
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Here's a question: the majority of our local lakes have done away with cleats entirely. Most of the docks here have a rail an inch or two off the dock, supported by blocks every 8' or so.

IMG_1869.jpg

The bow line my dealer supplied with the boat is looped at both ends for attachment (or so he showed us) to the bow & stern cleats on the boat, creating a big loop. Now, securing that "loop" to a cleat is no problem, but how would you all suggest attaching to a smooth rail with no ends to wrap around?

We only tie up after unloading at the ramp while we warm the engine up and upon returning while I run off to get the truck, so it's not the biggest deal in the world, but I must admit to being stumped. So far, we haven't tied up at all, just run the line under the rail for leverage and then had someone hold the rope to keep the boat against the dock. It's a pain. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
 
osd9 said:
Tim:

I agree with the way you illustrated and I do the same. However, in the link by B-fitting, it says that the 'ragboaters' and 'professionals' condemm the use of the locking hitch on a last turn....
Click to expand...

Huh. I traditionally have used one full wrap followed by two locking hitches. But my boats are all "small", so jamming is not an issue.

I will try out the hitches as illustrated.
 
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