Boat won't run HELP

DPF

New Member
May 4, 2010
116
Lake Erie
Boat Info
2007 32 searay sundancer
Engines
350 mags
I Splashed my 2007 32 sundancer boat with twin 350s v drives on April 28th. While I was in the sling both engines fired up perfectly while they were warming up the port engine died. No big deal fired right back up. 2 min later died again. This has been the case for the last 3 weeks. The mechanic in our marina worked on it the first week thought he had it fixed and did not the next week worked on it again and gave up. Last Friday 2 marine Max mechanics spent 5 hrs on it and isolated the engine from the rest of the boat and the same problem. The engine shuts down just like you turn off the switch and will fire right back up. My original alarm was that High ambient temp. But that is not happining any more I don't get any alarm now. When they put their computer on it, it will shut their computer down as well. I managed to drive it down to Marine Max and they are in it today again but so far have not fourd the problem. It ran perfect when we put her away. Anyone have similar problem.
 
I am glad that 47 people viewed this and no one has had the same problem. But im optimistic someone knows what is wrong. Late in the day and Marine Max hasn't called and said they have found the problem yet.
 
I don't have any experience with this, but I would suspect that any issue that would shut THEIR diagnostic computer down is related to the ECU for the engine (assuming it has one). A normally functioning ECU wouldn't throw out a signal that far out of range.
 
This would be speculative on my part, tempered with years of experience, but I'm going with SRC on this one. The ECU has to be throwing something horribly bad to shut down the Diagnostic computer. You indicated that the engine just shuts down like you turned the key off. This really sounds like it is electrical. Bad ground that gets worse as it gets hot, corroded connectors that are shorting with heat, or sensors that are not producing the correct voltages. You HAD a high ambient Temp warning. It magically went away. It worked when you put up for the winter and now it's screwy. Marine Mechanics should be well versed in the ways of the corrosion monster, they should have looked there first.
It is possible that there is a condition that is shutting the engine off on purpose. It may be acting the way it supposed to. Low oil pressure, low coolant, Bad gas, Poor mixture, low fuel pressure. Were there any other conditions that you noticed? Interesting smells? Did it idle smooth when it did run? Did it smoke? Were there any indicators lit on the dash? Did you get good idle speed?
These are all questions the mechanic should have asked before he stuck his head under the hatch.
All of that being said, everything that it takes to make an engine run and idle is suspect. Knowing where to start is the first step. Start with the basic stuff.
I have had, and this was a bi*** to figure out, a bad charging system/battery make an engine run for a few seconds then shut down. It takes a lot of current to fire the injectors, run the ECU and the sensors, and there wasn't enough juice off the battery and Alternator to do it all.
Lot's to think about, but it's why Mechanics get paid the big bucks. :grin:
Good solid troubleshooting, an awesome set of tools, and a diag computer. Should be all it takes.

Jester.
 
Check for a broken fuel filter. I believe that model has had some issues with fuel filters that collapse closed after running a few minutes under pressure. then the conical valve resets and fuel will go through again. Won't get picked up by the RINDA scanner.
 
When my scanner is plugged in, it powers down as soon as I turn the key off.




That's not a good sign. Does your scanner have batteries in it? I'm pretty sure you are supposed to turn the key to the run position, but the scanner should power up from the power going to the ECU. It has an "always on" line as I recall, like a car. That way it doesn't have to relearn everything every time you turn it off. Either the ECU is dead, or the power going to it is shorted or not there (Open). I'll check on the stuff I can't remember, but I'm about 96% sure about that. Can you scan the other engine with the key off? Since it is an 07 each engine has it's own ECU. They "isolated" the engine once, do it again and see if you can read the "good" engine's ECU. I don't know how good your Marine Max guys are out there.
Do they still have the boat? have they responded to you?

Jester
 
That's not a good sign. Does your scanner have batteries in it? I'm pretty sure you are supposed to turn the key to the run position, but the scanner should power up from the power going to the ECU. It has an "always on" line as I recall, like a car. That way it doesn't have to relearn everything every time you turn it off. Either the ECU is dead, or the power going to it is shorted or not there (Open). I'll check on the stuff I can't remember, but I'm about 96% sure about that. Can you scan the other engine with the key off? Since it is an 07 each engine has it's own ECU. They "isolated" the engine once, do it again and see if you can read the "good" engine's ECU. I don't know how good your Marine Max guys are out there.
Do they still have the boat? have they responded to you?

Jester

I never gave my boat to Marine Max. I am trying to trouble shoot the problems because my mechanic is booked up. Both engines are the same in regards to needing the ignition switch to be in the on or run position to get power. I don't think there are any batteries in the scanner.
 
I make no claims to be a mechanic, but i had a similar issue with a 340 a few years ago and it turned out to be a bad ignition coil. Try swapping the coils from engine to engine and see if the problem switches sides. Good luck, and let us know what it turns out to be.
 
Dear friends,

I have a similar problem whit my searay 300 weekender, it is running but so slowly, it make just 10 miles per hour, my question is, do you think the propelers are responsables for this? please help me.
Mario..
 
malfredo is the trailer still on :p LOL saw a news article about that happening!

I believe it would take a significantly incorrect prop to stop you about 10 mph...

OP:: temp sensor possibly.... oil pressure sensor??
 

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