Blue Water Drain Plug Fix

wellswa

Member
Sep 13, 2011
160
SE Michigan
Boat Info
1997 330 Sundancer
Engines
7.4L 310HP Twins with Hurth V-Drives
Previous Boat
1997 Sea Ray 210BR Signature
http://www.flickr.com/photos/123483553@N02/sets/72157644167981706/View attachment 34524

I have the fix for the blue water drain plugs that always break or twist off when trying to remove them. These new plugs are made of stainless steel (attached pic) and incorporate the "O" ring to seal them just as the plastic ones do. I've made up a few of them and am offering them for sale here. They are $10.95 each or available in sets. A set of 4 (typical inboard engine)is $39.95 and a set of 5 (typical sterndrive engine)is $49.95. PM me if you would like some.
 
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Looks good. I have a question. I know the blue plug is a drain plug but I don't know what it goes into (read my fat arse can't get that low in the bilge). Is there a need to be concerned with disimilar metals?
 
On some engines one of the drain points is a plastic water distribution module (3 point drain system). Not sure about stainless threaded into plastic. Sounds like a potential for cracking the plastic.
 
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On some engines one of the drain points is a plastic water distribution module (3 point drain system). Not sure about stainless threaded into plastic. Sounds like a potential for cracking the plastic.

The thread is a straight UNC machine thread that is the reason for the "O" ring to seal off the threads. If it was a tapered pipe thread yes it would crack the plastic housing if it was tightened too much. Stainless into plastic no issues there.
 
The thread is a straight UNC machine thread that is the reason for the "O" ring to seal off the threads. If it was a tapered pipe thread yes it would crack the plastic housing if it was tightened too much. Stainless into plastic no issues there.

That's great. I couldn't remember if it was tapered or not on my 300DA. Sounds like a good idea for the plastic module. That's the one I kept bumping into with my foot. The other two were at the T-stat housing and tucked away into the side of the sea water pump. I didn't ever inadvertently knock those.
 

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