Blowing out fresh water lines

Blueone

Well-Known Member
SILVER Sponsor
Jan 24, 2007
13,824
Lake Erie, Ohio
Boat Info
2004 420 Sundancer
Engines
Cummins 6CTA 450's
This year I want to get away from the pink stuff in the fresh water system and instead blow the lines out with compressed air. Since I have never done this I have a couple of questions.

I assume I would start at the pump by disconnecting the lines there to attach the compressed air?

What is the maximum air pressure you would set the compressor at?

Would you pressurize the system then open each tap or would you open one tap at a time, then apply pressure

If you could help me out with a procedure I would appreciate it.... Thanks
 
I have blown my lines out for years, I set the pressure to 35-40, I hook up at the dock side water input, turn the compressor on and go around opening all devices, flush toilest etc. Have never had a problem. Bob
 
When I owned my 240SD I winterized my fresh water system without pink stuff using compressed air to blow out the lines. Here is what I did.

  1. I emptied the water tank by pumping it dry
  2. Next, I removed the outlet side pump hose at the pump. Using a rubber tipped tool on a compressed air line, I blew out the remaining water in the pump itself (this blows that water back into the tank and keeps the pump itself from freezing from any residual water left in it).
  3. Starting with each water line, for example the front sprayer, I first removed the spray head from the line then went back to that open line I took off the pump in the bilge and using the rubber tip gun blew all the water out of that line. Next I would press the spray button on the head I removed and let all trapped water drain out of the sprayer and then I placed it back on the hose. I then moved on to the line for the head faucet, the cockpit sink, and finally the rear sprayer and did each of them the same way.
  4. Finally, I reconnected the line to the pump in the bilge. In the spring all I had to do was fill the tank with water and I was ready for another season.
I should mention that since I had to do this work at our Marina and did not have a compressor I could take there, I used one of those storage tanks you fill with compressed air. I used my home compressor to fill it and there was sufficient capacity to have enough air pressure to do all the lines in the fashion I mentioned. Also there will always be a little bit of water left in the tank but even if that freezes it has plenty of room to expand without breaking anything.

Dave
 
Same for me, 35-45 psi is plenty. I always break the line at fresh water pump when done and get a little water there. Never a problem
 
I really appreciate everyone's feedback and the detail of your process.

Thanks again
 
Certainly not an expert, I believe my mechanic is. when I asked him about using the air blow out method he said it works great for the line. Problem is that water stays in the valve seats of each faucet, which may become a problem.

I am probably not going to winterize this year and if I see things are looking abnormally cold, I will take the compressor down and blow the lines out. We winterized last year and the admiral was not impressed that we could not use the fresh water system, heat, or certainly the head system.

Since my HW tank and all pumps are in the bilge that is kept warm by the Boatsafe heater, I think they will be safe. At least I hope so.
 
I have blown my lines out for years, I set the pressure to 35-40, I hook up at the dock side water input, turn the compressor on and go around opening all devices, flush toilest etc. Have never had a problem. Bob

Do you blow air down the discharge of a vacuflush toilet? I would flush a gallon of AF to protect the the head system beyond the toilet....oh ...I use a shop vac to suck out the through hull fitting for the water heater, bilge pumps....just don't go sucking on the vents for the fuel tanks!
 
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Certainly not an expert, I believe my mechanic is. when I asked him about using the air blow out method he said it works great for the line. Problem is that water stays in the valve seats of each faucet, which may become a problem.
That is why I do what I do, and then keep the faucets open all winter long, and it is very, very, very, veryveryvery long

I may try it. I understood that water stayed in the faucet valves even though they were open. He told me only running pink would completely protect them.

I am not a plumber.
 
Pink would work, although I sleep better at night knowing that I used the blue -100, that way if it mixes with some residual water, it's no big deal.

Pink vs Blue...I am sure Ya'll get way colder than we do :grin:

Whatever floats your boat...so they say.
 
I just wanted to follow-up - I finally got to winterizing this past weekend and followed Dave's method using 40psi.. I unscrewed each sprayer head then applied the compressed air...after I sprayed out the disconnected sprayer head to get the water out of it, then reassembled and went on to the next. It worked great.. it was quick .. no mess, no expense and no pink in the spring.

Thanks again for all your feedback
 

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