Bilge Pump...stereo not working.

They look like aftermarket installation. One way to mount a transom mount transducer is to glue it to the inside of the hull to shoot through the fiberglass. If you want to reattach it clean the old glue off with some acetone and then use the Liquid Nails silicone adhesive to reattach it. Make sure to try and not get any bubbles under it by putting some weight on top of it till it has set.
 
LTD.330 said:
Just stumbled upon this thread. TL;DR Why does your bilge pump have it's own stereo?
Click to expand...
I was wondering the same thing :)

To the OP. The only thing your stereo and your bilge pump likely have in common is that they are both broke. Troubleshoot them one at a time. For the pump, follow its harness up to an accessible location and puncture test the two wires with a multi-meter. You should see 12V between them. If you don't the problem lies between your test point and the battery. If you do, then it gets uglier as you will need to find some way to access the pump / switch for further troubleshooting. Either that of just wire in a new bilge pump and call it a day.
 
Also for the transducer. Was told to first put in a bag of water with a small sand bag over it. Make sure it will read through the hull before you glue it in
 
bobeast said:
I was wondering the same thing :)

To the OP. The only thing your stereo and your bilge pump likely have in common is that they are both broke. Troubleshoot them one at a time. For the pump, follow its harness up to an accessible location and puncture test the two wires with a multi-meter. You should see 12V between them. If you don't the problem lies between your test point and the battery. If you do, then it gets uglier as you will need to find some way to access the pump / switch for further troubleshooting. Either that of just wire in a new bilge pump and call it a day.
Click to expand...
 
I would agree that the stereo & bilge SHOULD be separate...but in this case they clearly are not. Both are powered from a single lead off the positive of the battery direct. This is to accommodate automatic bilge operation & maintenance of the stereo's memory. Crazy? Yes. But that is how it is. Fuses for both are on lines from this common feed.
I will try to trouble shoot them separately regardless. The issue could well be a bad common ground.
As has been said, if it gets ugly, I intend to add some length to the pump discharge and simply put in a new pump/switch in a more accessible location.

OK, the 2nd transducer, the one that appears to be an after market install, is for a Garman nav. That is settled. I would have liked the space to put a new pump there, but we move on.

Again, thanks all.
 
The stereo memory wire is yellow and has no fuse. They shouldn't share a common ground wire either.
 
What is a stereo memory wire??

Sooooo here’s my issue, previous owner of our boat installed two (???) amps and some serious speakers around cockpit, two of which I removed last weekend when I took out the extra side bench seat he had built in to accommodate said speakers. Stereo radio worked before, but now after disconnecting two speakers it will not power up!?!?!?
 
jmcdboater said:
What is a stereo memory wire??
Click to expand...
That's the wire that should be connected to an always-hot point to keep the radio's memory active. That way, it won't lose presets and clock settings. It differs from the main power wire in that it routes only a very small amount of power.
 
Nater Potater said:
That's the wire that should be connected to an always-hot point to keep the radio's memory active. That way, it won't lose presets and clock settings. It differs from the main power wire in that it routes only a very small amount of power.
Click to expand...
Agree with Nater............I had the identical problem last year, granted I have the 225 but I'd bet same wiring. The problem with mine was a bad connection at the battery, I cut back wire and re did. Cleaned all grounds and neg bus and checked all splices in circuit.
upload_2022-6-13_9-1-48.png
 
Update: All splices in the bilge switch/pump circuit are heavily corroded. Literally a bloom of corrosion. Multimeter showed inconsistent to nada readings. Will all be rejoined shortly.
Stereo run is another matter. All splices are clean. They are nowhere near the sump area, so a relatively dry environment compared to the bilge area. I will turn my attention to that once I am happy with the bilge.
With this last posting, I will give the battery contact a closer look & test it for conductivity. While that may look good, even a tad of corrosion inside that clamp is problematic. May as well so that while I'm rejoining all the other splices.
 
That’ great that you (apparently) have isolated the issue on one of the two lines, congrats!
Keep us posted on the stereo line search & rescue, I have a similar issue.
 
In the vain of " there are no dumb questions" ...why does this boat have both a bilge switch & an automatic pump ?
Would not an auto pump be sufficient ?
 
There are in fact dumb questions, but yours isn't one of them. The manual switch lets you override the automatic function. You might need to do this if, for example, the float switch got jammed by debris floating in the water that it should be pumping out.
 
Thanks...I suppose I already "knew" that but just needed it confirmed. Mine is wired that way.
 
O man said:
Thanks...I suppose I already "knew" that but just needed it confirmed. Mine is wired that way.
Click to expand...
Bob is Correct. After I get on boat when gone away a week, first thing I do is manually turn on the bilge pump. If no water pumps out it will be a good weekend. If I hear water pumping out the side, it’s going to be a real suck weekend.
 
A 3 wire bilge pump doesn't need a remote float switch.
Both functions will be on that 3 wire pump
 
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