bilge pump install

75torino

Member
Sep 25, 2011
45
Brogue Pa
Boat Info
1989 340 Sport Fisherman 1982 270 Sea Ray Sundancer 330 TRS drive
Engines
Twin FWC 454 Mercruisers
Ok I have a 1987 Sea Ray 340 Sportsfisherman and the rear bilge pump went out. Wanting to do the job right I removed both the bad pump and the old switch Now I have re wired them how I thought they were and nothing I have the original switch with the choice of manual or automatic At the pump I have three wires from the boat one black one brown one brown with a red stripe The pump (a rule 2000) has a black and a brown wire. The switch has two grey wires Could some one tell me how to wire this. A diagram would be helpful Thanks in advance Conard
 
The BRN/RED should be the "always hot" that would go to one of the GRY wires from the float switch. The BRN wire should come from the dash switch and would go directly to the pump BRN wire along with the other GRY wire from the float switch. The BLK wires are ground and would all be connected together.
 

Attachments

  • Bilge pump.jpg
    Bilge pump.jpg
    26.9 KB · Views: 296
Thank You Thank You Thank You
 
Make sure your connections are heat shrinked and waterproof. That's why I always let someone else do this....because I don't have the tools.

Don
 
Ok I hooked it up as instructed and as before the pump runs all of the time. Any suggestions. Both the pump and automatic switch are new. Thanks
 
Ok I hooked it up as instructed and as before the pump runs all of the time. Any suggestions. Both the pump and automatic switch are new. Thanks

One has to run directly through the switch on the dash and direct to the float switch. Find out what one is hot. I would guess the switch on the dash. Do you have a volt meter? That can help you.
 
Well Stupid got me The manual switch was on on the flybridge So all is well Thanks for the help and advice Conard
 
75Troino - thanks for starting this post as I was getting ready to post this as well. Jim, Don, Mike - thanks for the input. I am headed to my boat tonight to work on the bilge pump as well. I replaced everything but can't get the switch at the helm to turn the pump on. Needless to say I have to open the hatch and to it by hand. I think this will really help.
Stay tuned.
 
I hope you have more room than I do when I go down in the HOLE"

Amen - The bilge pump was the very first thing I had to do on my 340.
I was thinking about building a gantry so I could hang by the ankles and raise and lower myself in and out of the engine space.
 
Amen - The bilge pump was the very first thing I had to do on my 340.
I was thinking about building a gantry so I could hang by the ankles and raise and lower myself in and out of the engine space.

There ya go. Doing that makes me pull out the Crown Royal
 
doing anythinng in the ER makes me pull out the crown royal
 
I did this in March. Had to have a friend pull me out by the ankles 3 times.
 
I did the rear one as my boat does not have a generator I had plenty of room This is a great site Thanks again for the help
 
Ok staying on this thread. I printed the wiring diagram and went to my boat last week with it. All wires are connected properly. The float works and when it is raised the pump does its thing. The switch at the helm doesn't work. Not sure how to check it or fix it.
Any ideas.
 
Ok staying on this thread. I printed the wiring diagram and went to my boat last week with it. All wires are connected properly. The float works and when it is raised the pump does its thing. The switch at the helm doesn't work. Not sure how to check it or fix it.
Any ideas.

You will have to get a meter or test light and start at the helm switch looking for 12 volts DC.
 
Jim G - Thanks. Headed there tonight after our golf league. If you don't mind I'll let you know what I find out just in case there is a step 2.
thanks, Joe
 

Forum statistics

Threads
113,188
Messages
1,428,235
Members
61,099
Latest member
Lorenzo512
Back
Top