Bilge Pump Float Switch

Tacoma290

Active Member
Oct 5, 2006
498
Tacoma, WA
Boat Info
340 Sundancer 2007
Engines
Twin 8.1 V-drives
I noticed that my float switch was not making the main bilge pump run for my 2007 340. I pulled the switch, and cleaned it with no difference. Pump would not run based on manually manipulating the switch.
The switch at the helm does operate the pump. So the helm EIM circuit and the pump work.

I purchased a replacement switch, see below and cut the leads to the old switch. Before installing, I connected the two wires that connected to the switch. Pump does not run. I did not expect that.
Here is a new version of the bilge switch:
8247124_LRG.jpg

So if I read this diagram correctly, power for the bilge pump is from two sources. Green is the power from the helm switch EIM (which works), and the yellow is the power runs to Plug 9 (which does not):
09-601-Excerpt.jpg

If I read this correctly, Plug 9 goes into Cap 9, which goes to a breaker in the engine compartment:
09-606-Excerpt.jpg

So I will head back to the boat and check on the status of the breaker. Anything else to look at for why shunting the leads to the switch do not make the pump run?
 
Somewhere from the breaker to the pump is open... this includes a tripped breaker, the wire from the breaker to the switch and the the wire from the switch to the pump. Verify power at both sides of the breaker... then continue to track down and find where the power stops.
 
Somewhere from the breaker to the pump is open... this includes a tripped breaker, the wire from the breaker to the switch and the the wire from the switch to the pump. Verify power at both sides of the breaker... then continue to track down and find where the power stops.

I agree with this. It is not unusual when working with wires in and near the bilge to find that a wire has corroded completly away inside the insulation. All it takes is a bad crimp or a pinprick where some previous owner or sloppy tradesman has used a ice-pick tester on a wire to save time.
 
I had the same problem and there was a blown fuse under the engine hatch a 5 amp I think
 
He said the pump does go on when he manually turns it on at the helm. Thus, it's not a pump breaker issue...
If nothing happened when you connected the two wires together, then I would trace the wires going to the interface module of the float switch wiring.
Do you have a indicator light at the helm that tells you that the bilge pump is running as well?
 
He said the pump does go on when he manually turns it on at the helm. Thus, it's not a pump breaker issue...
Negative, Ghost Rider. There are two fuses - one for the dash switch, one for the float switch.
 
Mine would turn on by the dash switch and not by the float, so I replaced the float then found the fuse
 

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