Bilge Pump Failed

[emahaffey]

I have a 1994 Sea Ray Sundancer 270. I noticed over the weekend that both my primary and emergency bilge pumps did not work when the float switched were engaged. All the breakers on the "bilge breaker box" were not tripped. One thing I noticed was the rocker switch on the dash was only an on/off switch. The owners manual indicates that the boat should have a manual/off/automatic switch for the bilge pumps. I used a test let to check power to the pumps and there wasn't any. Anyone know if this baot definitely should have a manual/off/auto switch in order for the float switches to work within the system?

 

[Henry Boyd]

Welcome to CSR,

You might want to review this thread:

http://clubsearay.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20182

To get to your specific questions, based on what we have;

Assuming no one has fiddled with wiring over the past fifteen years, the helm switch should override/bypass the float switch and make the 'lower' pump turn on. The proper operation of the helm switch should be manual (the 'on' position of the switch) or automatic (the 'off' position of the switch). In this case 'on', or 'off' refers to the whether manual override is in operation, and not whether the bilge pump is energized.

So as long as the batteries are connected to the boat and no breakers/fuses are tripped, there should be power at the float switches at all times.

Henry

 

[tdappleman]

On my 96 - I only have an on/off switch at the helm. It operates the lower pump only which pumps out the port side. Lower pump meaning the pump which runs off the float switch at the lower part of the bilge. Both pumps are fully automatic and rely on the float switch to operate. Both pumps should have power all of the time -even with the battery switch set to 'off'. Depending on the float switch you have - you may be able to test them to ensure you have a working set of pumps.

 

[unlvrebel]

Bearings on bilge pumps freeze up if they aren't used regularly, but that should trip a fuse. Did you check the fust at the battery? You didn't mention which fuse that you checked. This is usually the culprit. Chances are your pumps are frozen. Replace the fuse off of the battery and run again. Will blow most likely. Time to replace the pumps. Make it part of your routine to run the bilge pumps even though you don't need them. Make sure they work before you get out there!

 

[emahaffey]

Thanks for all the quick replies. Both the primary and emergency pumps are functioning properly. When the bilge has water in it (manually added) I can flip the rocker switch on the dash, and pumps do there job. However, before flipping the manual switch, the flaot switches should of engaged the pumps and they didn't. I cut one of the float switches from the circuit and used a test light which showed no power getting to the float switch. The boat has dual batteries. Both have a 30 amp fuseable link coming from the positive terminal. Not knowing if these were for the bilge pumps I checked them anyhow and they were fine. All the breakers in the bilge breaker box appear to be non-tripped (i.e. I can't push them in). Is there something else that I'm missing? I really don't want to run a custom line direct from the battery, but I may have to to be safe.

 

[tdappleman]

Not uncommon to need to clean or replace the float switches. I just had to replace both of mine in the bilge and went ahead and did the shower sump as well just to have one less thing to worry about. Mine had the blue Sure-Bail switches which I found on ebay for pretty cheap. Just make sure you use waterproof connectors - I used the heat shrink Ancor ones since the WM near me has a good selection.

 

[emahaffey]

Thanks Travis. I too have the "Sure Ball" float switches. I removed them both and manually moved the switch which did nothing. That's when I cut the leads and tested for power. Which showed no power getting to the switch. So, what I've found is the float switches are fine, the pumps are fine. I just don't have any power getting down to them.

 

[Lazy Daze]

Is this boat new to you?

Has someone else been working on it for you recently?

Any chance there's another small diameter wire laying around the battery that was never hooked back up? 30A sounds like quite a lot for a bilge pump.

 

[emahaffey]

I thought 30 amp fuses were big for bilge pumps too, but I checked them anyway. I can't imagine there being a seperate line going directly to the battery if all of the pumps are wired through the "bilge breaker box". The breakers should take care of any shorts in the line. I looked for loose connections but didn't see any.

I just bought the boat so I'm not very clear on it's history. I do know that the Hot Water Heater and the Battery Charger were replaced a year or 2 ago. Wonder if they forgot to hook something back up. I'll be digging into more on Wednesday.

 

[unlvrebel]

I think you've nailed it. You're missing power to the float switch. Time to chase the wire from the float switch to the battery and see where it ends up. 30 amp is way too big. Pump would fry. I think mine was a 10 amp fuse that I replaced.

 

[emahaffey]

Just wanted to let anyone else know what the problem was with my bilge pumps. It came down to two severed wires. one of the leads on each of the float switches had either been severed, or the insulation had softened from the oily bilge water and the internal wired decayed. I replaced both switches and everything is working. Well the pumps that is. Now I have a fuel pump and raw water housing/pimp that needs replaced....