BIII Water Pump Removal Modification

[gnealon]

Guys, was curious if anyone out there modified the water pump or the bolt that holds the water pump on to make it easier to remove. I have BIII 5.0's in my 280DA and the access to the water pumps is very right. This is my second time doing the impeller change and i can't remember what I did last time to wiggle the pump out :smt001 The problem is I can't slide the water pump off the upper bolt that goes through the water pump bracket. There is a small piece of steel on the water pump that is hitting the crank shaft pulley. The stringer is stopping me from rotating the water pump enough to get past the crank shaft pulley. (Also guys, I might be confusing the crank shaft pulley w/ the harmonic balancer. After looking at the schematic, I believe its the harmonic balancer that I'm hitting, I apologize)

Anyways, here was my idea...

1. The bolt (that sticks out from the engine and goes through the upper bracket on the water pump) is too long. My idea was to thread the nut on, cut the bolt shorter, and then back the nut off to re-ream the bolt. Here is a pic of the bolt I'm talking about:

http://www.solveadvisors.com/images/pic1.jpg

2. The other option is to try and cut that piece of steel on the pump while its on the engine. I don't see any reason why its there. This would allow me to slide the pump out past the crank shaft pulley (or harmonic balancer). Here is a pic of that small piece of steel I'm talking about:

http://www.solveadvisors.com/images/pic2.jpg

I obviously did this before w/o either of those mods but I remember last time it took be the better part of the day per engine. I can't for the life of me figure out what I did last time. Also, its next to impossible to get those hoses off the water pump w/o dropping the pump down and getting some room.

Thanks in advance for any advice!! :smt001

 

[jason78]

I just did mine last week and found it was easier to remove that bracket from the water pump all together then slide it off to allow access to disconnect the 2 water hoses. I would not have been able to access the water lines otherwise since they are essentially under the engine. Once you remove that bracket, you can lay the pump down to access the hoses.

In my opinion, some type of quick disconnect fitting on for the hoses on the back of the pump would be more useful than anything else, short or relocating the darn thing to a better spot.

 

[gnealon]

I just did mine last week and found it was easier to remove that bracket from the water pump all together then slide it off to allow access to disconnect the 2 water hoses. I would not have been able to access the water lines otherwise since they are essentially under the engine. Once you remove that bracket, you can lay the pump down to access the hoses.

In my opinion, some type of quick disconnect fitting on for the hoses on the back of the pump would be more useful than anything else, short or relocating the darn thing to a better spot.

Ahh interesting Jason, thanks for the suggestion. I didn't see where the bracket mounted to the water pump but I assume the bolts are accessible?

 

[jason78]

Ahh interesting Jason, thanks for the suggestion. I didn't see where the bracket mounted to the water pump but I assume the bolts are accessible?

There are 3 bolts that hold the bracket to the pump. One is mounted on the top front (very easy) the other 2 bolts thread in from the rear. The one to the Port side of the pump (as mounted) is easy. The other one is tight if you have a Cool Fuel 3 system (which you probably do, being an 05). A 10mm open ended wrench is the best for these. Since the pump/bracket assembly is loose, you can twist it slightly counter clockwise to ease access to that bolt.

It is a little harder to get back on but doable. I have heard other 280 owners just layed down and reached under and disconnected the water lines. That is impossible for me to do but I have a macerator (adds one thru hull in front of Starboard engine) and I have closed cooling so I have another 2 thru hulls for supplemental cooling water so I may have a bit more in the way to contend with than you.

My pump cover was worn down so I installed stainless steel wear plates. I covered that in another thread I will find and post.

 

[gnealon]

There are 3 bolts that hold the bracket to the pump. One is mounted on the top front (very easy) the other 2 bolts thread in from the rear. The one to the Port side of the pump (as mounted) is easy. The other one is tight if you have a Cool Fuel 3 system (which you probably do, being an 05). A 10mm open ended wrench is the best for these. Since the pump/bracket assembly is loose, you can twist it slightly counter clockwise to ease access to that bolt.

It is a little harder to get back on but doable. I have heard other 280 owners just layed down and reached under and disconnected the water lines. That is impossible for me to do but I have a macerator (adds one thru hull in front of Starboard engine) and I have closed cooling so I have another 2 thru hulls for supplemental cooling water so I may have a bit more to contend with than you.

My pumo cover was worn down so I installed stainless steel wear plates. I covered that in another thread I will find and post.

Gotcha, thanks. Yea I have the macerator as well but no closed cooling. I know what you mean, I've hung upside down w/ my feet out of the bilge before, but could never lay down. Getting those hoses off is a major PIA. I think I'll take your suggestion, but once the pump is out I may cut that steel tab off. Why the hell did they put that there is beyond me.

Anyways, thx again for everything.

 

[Woody]

The only way I could get mine off was by loosening the cool fuel unit up a little. I was hanging up on the crank dampener too because of the long stud. I ground down the knob on the bracket and I ground one off the pump body itself that was hitting something. Goes on/off easy now...but the hoses are still a *****.

 

[scoflaw]

gnealon, thats a stud screwed into the block, your arrow is pointing at. Double nut it and pull it out and throw it away. When your putting it back together, go get yourself a couple of bolts similar in size. Both of your pics are the same, but if you ditch the stud you won.t have to grind anything.

 

[spfortjohn]

Marine Max did mine. I am all for DIY but it is not worth the cussing for me. Lol

 

[dan313]

I'm going to tackle this job tomorrow. Wish me luck..

 

[jason78]

I'm going to tackle this job tomorrow. Wish me luck..

Good Luck! It is really not that bad, looking back on it. I was going to pay someone to do it but that did not work out so I took things in to my own hands and did it myself. (I did hire a friend's brother to help with removing and putting back on the port side hoses)- I was too sore after the first one. All in all it cost me $27 for each impeller kit, $17 each for the stainless wear plates and I gave the guy $100 to help me. I think most places charge about $300-$350 for an impeller job so well worth the savings.


The 280 is tight but I really think it would have been worse on my 225 Weekender just because you have little to no access to the lower forth of the engine let alone under the engine on many of the sport boats. The 280 is tight but at least you have some access. I dont think your 270 will be bad at all having total engine access with good room on both sides. I am getting ready to help my friend change the impellers on his 300DA since now I am "experienced". He has enough room to put a lounge chair down there and sip a bourbon drink while working on those 300DA engines!

 

[gnealon]

gnealon, thats a stud screwed into the block, your arrow is pointing at. Double nut it and pull it out and throw it away. When your putting it back together, go get yourself a couple of bolts similar in size. Both of your pics are the same, but if you ditch the stud you won.t have to grind anything.

Man you are a genius. I don't know why I didn't think of that, but it worked like a CHARM! :thumbsup: Thanks so much. I replaced both studs with 9/16 bolts and worked great. Now... any tricks w/ the hoses? HA. Thanks again.

 

[gnealon]

Good Luck! It is really not that bad, looking back on it. I was going to pay someone to do it but that did not work out so I took things in to my own hands and did it myself. (I did hire a friend's brother to help with removing and putting back on the port side hoses)- I was too sore after the first one. All in all it cost me $27 for each impeller kit, $17 each for the stainless wear plates and I gave the guy $100 to help me. I think most places charge about $300-$350 for an impeller job so well worth the savings.


The 280 is tight but I really think it would have been worse on my 225 Weekender just because you have little to no access to the lower forth of the engine let alone under the engine on many of the sport boats. The 280 is tight but at least you have some access. I dont think your 270 will be bad at all having total engine access with good room on both sides. I am getting ready to help my friend change the impellers on his 300DA since now I am "experienced". He has enough room to put a lounge chair down there and sip a bourbon drink while working on those 300DA engines!

Jason, do you have a part number or link to those SS wear plates? I couldn't find them. Even MM has no idea what they were. Thanks!!

 

[jason78]

Jason, do you have a part number or link to those SS wear plates? I couldn't find them. Even MM has no idea what they were. Thanks!!

See post #5 here- http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/50390-Wear-on-RAW-Water-Pump-Housing-Cover-Assembly-Bravo3

MM probably has not heard of them because it is not a Merc part. Generally I don't go for after market parts but DaveS is a friend and great technical resource. He seems satisfied with them so I was was willing to give the plates a try. Figured I would give them a shot over buying new pump cover assemblies. I ordered (4) to get the discount and another friend is putting the other 2 on his boat.

 

[gnealon]

See post #5 here- http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/50390-Wear-on-RAW-Water-Pump-Housing-Cover-Assembly-Bravo3

MM probably has not heard of them because it is not a Merc part. Generally I don't go for after market parts but DaveS is a friend and great technical resource. He seems satisfied with them so I was was willing to give the plates a try. Figured I would give them a shot over buying new pump cover assemblies. I ordered (4) to get the discount and another friend is putting the other 2 on his boat.

Thanks! :thumbsup: