BIII Prop Maintenance Question

[SeaAyeOwe]

Guys, this is my first BIII boat - should the the props be removed, scanned and tuned on a regular basis?

There is no real issue but I have some general maintenance to do this winter in the haul out and I am trying to make sure I have all things listed I should think about.

600 hours and to my knowledge never been tuned since new ( I have pretty good full life maintenance records and invoices).

Thanks.

Dave

 

[gerryb]

600 hours is quite a bit of use and indeed might warrant a scan. BUT... I would first do a 'visual' scan and check for any nicks, gouges, warping, etc. If the prop looks 'good as new', I don't see a reason to send it off even with 600 hours. Also, as general rule of thumb, the larger the prop, the more to be lost in performance when it is out of tune. As the BIII props are relatively small, minor imperfections are less likely to create performance issues than with a prop 2x the size.

 

[Lazy Daze]

600 hours is quite a bit of use and indeed might warrant a scan. BUT... I would first do a 'visual' scan and check for any nicks, gouges, warping, etc. If the prop looks 'good as new', I don't see a reason to send it off even with 600 hours. Also, as general rule of thumb, the larger the prop, the more to be lost in performance when it is out of tune. As the BIII props are relatively small, minor imperfections are less likely to create performance issues than with a prop 2x the size.

Agree. Smaller props are also less likely to get out of tune than larger ones (leverage). If they visually look good, I wouldn't worry about it.

 

[Henry Boyd]

I agree on the scanning part. However since the BIII props are a steel on steel attachment, and the little buggers are very pricy, I'd suggest pulling them off, cleaning the splines and re-greasing. The last thing you want to have happen is for them to freeze on the shafts and have to be hammered off.

Henry

 

[SeaAyeOwe]

I agree on the scanning part. However since the BIII props are a steel on steel attachment, and the little buggers are very pricy, I'd suggest pulling them off, cleaning the splines and re-greasing. The last thing you want to have happen is for them to freeze on the shafts and have to be hammered off.

Henry

Great point - so at least know I need to buy a prop key.

Thanks guys.

 

[scoflaw]

steel on bronze

 

[Henry Boyd]

Great point - so at least know I need to buy a prop key.

Thanks guys.

I'd recommend the Mercruiser prop nut socket for the inner nut. It sells in the US for around $ 75.00 from a Merc dealer. The outer nut can be handled with a 1- 7/16" deep socket. These are hard to find in ½" drive, I ended up getting a ¾" drive socket and using a ½" to ¾" adapter.

Henry

 

[Henry Boyd]

steel on bronze

Nope, each prop is solid stainless with the spline machined into the prop. The shafts are steel, the only bronze parts are the two prop nuts and the thrust washer that sits between the props.

Henry

 

[scoflaw]

Nope, each prop is solid stainless with the spline machined into the prop. The shafts are steel, the only bronze parts are the two prop nuts and the thrust washer that sits between the props.

Henry[/QUO

Now that I think about it, I know I have tapered bronze hubs, not sure where the spline is, hub or prop

 

[bbwhitejr]

I'd recommend the Mercruiser prop nut socket for the inner nut. It sells in the US for around $ 75.00 from a Merc dealer. The outer nut can be handled with a 1- 7/16" deep socket. These are hard to find in ½" drive, I ended up getting a ¾" drive socket and using a ½" to ¾" adapter.

Henry

i found the 1 7/16 at Lowes for 1/2" drive and watch eBay for a used Merc Prop Socket. Picked mine up for $40 with free shipping.

Bennett