Bellows Replacement

boater2018

boater2018

Member
Feb 26, 2018
148
Boat Info
2000 Sea Ray 210 Sundeck
Engines
Mercruiser 5.0 EFI
I'm sure this has been addressed somewhere, but I'll ask anyway. 2000 Alpha 1, Gen 2 outdrive, due for bellows replacement. How difficult is this job? Would you strongly recommend a mechanic or is DIY possible with some mechanic skills (not advanced though lol)? Also, I plan to replace the gimbal bearing while the outdrive is removed.

The bellows aren't leaking. A mechanic that pulled the drive to grease the shaft and do a general inspection told me that they felt aged (hard/possibly brittle) and recommended the bellows be replaced this year. The gimbal bearing was done in 2018. All freshwater use.
 
I did the bellows, shift cable and trim senders on my Alpha, first time. I would not say it was easy, but certainly a DIY if you have some mechanical skill. There are YouTube videos out there and get the section from the Mercruiser manual. Took me two afternoons, a few busted knuckles and some swearing. I saved myself about $1000 and knew it was done right.
 
Are the Sierra Brand bellows good? I have seen several people say they had good luck when I search.
 
I guess only you can answer the part about whether you can DIY it, or not. But while you're there, do the lower shift cable and trim pucks as Bill mentioned. Ask your mechanic if he checked the alignment - he probably did it if he had the drive off (and he has the alignment tool). But add that to the list (and adjusting the motor mounts) if he didn't. Of course, you'll need to buy the tool, as well.

I don't know that I'd do the gimbal bearing - but there's worse things to do.

Get Merc parts. Period. There are times when aftermarket is OK, but this is not one of those times.

But... what do YOU think of the current condition of the bellows?

Please don't take this the wrong way, but it sounds like you're pretty new (at this point, anyways) to doing this kind of maintenance? Between research and actually doing this... I wouldn't be suprised if you had 15 hours (or more) into it.
 
Lazy Daze said:
I guess only you can answer the part about whether you can DIY it, or not. But while you're there, do the lower shift cable and trim pucks as Bill mentioned. Ask your mechanic if he checked the alignment - he probably did it if he had the drive off (and he has the alignment tool). But add that to the list (and adjusting the motor mounts) if he didn't. Of course, you'll need to buy the tool, as well.

I don't know that I'd do the gimbal bearing - but there's worse things to do.

Get Merc parts. Period. There are times when aftermarket is OK, but this is not one of those times.

But... what do YOU think of the current condition of the bellows?

Please don't take this the wrong way, but it sounds like you're pretty new (at this point, anyways) to doing this kind of maintenance? Between research and actually doing this... I wouldn't be suprised if you had 15 hours (or more) into it.
Click to expand...
I am new to this kind of maintenance for sure. Just searching and seeing how often a gimbal bearing is recommended, I assumed it is due? I’m just not sure how old the bellows are. I would definitely prefer to wait another year and just service the lower unit this year, but also trying to keep maintenance up to date. For freshwater use only, how often should the gimbal and bellows be done? FYI: The shift cable was replaced 6 years ago. My trim gauge doesn’t work, so I figure that one is bad.
 
Being an older boat, sometimes a valid course of action would be to replace items, like raw water pump impeller and the underwater rubber parts, to set a new baseline for maintenance intervals.

I pull my drive off for the winters and store in garage, so I do the checks and alignment check every spring before drive goes back on.

I change those things every 3-5 years, just because. Just sitting out of the water, the ozone in the air can break down those materials over an extended time. Check them often. I do the impeller every other year. Cheap insurance.

As for the gimbal bearing, when drive is off you can feel if it is rough or not. Nice an smooth and all greased up (if greasable) = still has life to it.
 
boater2018 said:
I am new to this kind of maintenance for sure. Just searching and seeing how often a gimbal bearing is recommended, I assumed it is due? I’m just not sure how old the bellows are. I would definitely prefer to wait another year and just service the lower unit this year, but also trying to keep maintenance up to date. For freshwater use only, how often should the gimbal and bellows be done? FYI: The shift cable was replaced 6 years ago. My trim gauge doesn’t work, so I figure that one is bad.
Click to expand...
There's no real "set" schedule for replacement. There's just too many variables. I would definitely not replace the bellows blindly - they're easy to check out to see if they have life in them so you don't have to do them "just because". It's not uncommon for bellows to easily last 10+ years. If you don't feel up to the task of inspecting them, then use a local/trusted mechanic for his recommendation and just pay him (good piece of mind).

Heck, I've seen boats with impellers that are 15 years old and doing just fine, too! But I wouldn't go that long - I would replace an impeller as preventative maintenance - generally not less than every 3 years - and certainly by 5 years time. This is one of those things that you want to replace preemptively.
 
I found this that I posted back when I did my bellows, hope it is helpful. I will note, my boat (this was my SeaRay 185) has always been stored on a lift or in dry storage. The bellows were original when I did this job in 2015 - so they were 16yrs old. They were still serviceable, however my shift cable bellows was leaking and that is what prompted the job. The gimbal bearing on mine was greaseable, I had checked it every year or two and greased it - it was original and was never replaced. Still original and just fine when I sold the boat last year. My point is these parts are often replaced unnecessarily - the way the boat is used and stored (in/out of water, fresh/salt etc) has a lot to do with how long these parts last. Routine maintenance and inspections are key, you don't want to deal with this job AFTER the bellows have leaked, damaging parts that otherwise would never need to be replaced.
That's my 2 cents on bellows -- here is a writeup of my experience back in 2015:

------------------------------
Here is a write up I did after I replaced my bellows, it will give you an idea of what you are up against. This was an Alpha I Gen II.

List of repairs done:
-Replace raw water pump impeller
-Check/adjust engine alignment
-Check gimbal bearing
-Install new transom tilt switch
-Replace trim limit/sender switches
-Replace u-joint, exhaust and shift cable bellows
-Replace shift cable
-Install transom trim switch (not really part of the bellows job, but something I had wanted)


Day1:
-Pulled outdrive
-Replaced water pump
-Repainted lower half of outdrive
-Inspected gimbal bearing / checked engine alignment
-Installed transom tilt switch


Day2:
Dis-assembled everything - removed bellhousing, old bellows, shift cable.
Cleaned up bell housing.


Day3:
-Installed new trim sensors
-Installed new u-joint bellows
-Installed new exhaust tube
-Installed new shift cable / bellows
-Installed new water hose
-Installed new gear lube hose
-Installed gear lube transom fitting (broken during disassembly - read the comments below on this!)


Total cost, including the special tools I needed $413.


Special tools:
Hinge pin removal tool
Shift cable socket tool
Bellows retainer ring install tool
Alignment tool
- Total cost $100.36


I used Sierra parts, really went back on forth on this, it wasn't about cost (there is about $100 difference), it was just I can't see paying more for the same thing. I was able to physically compare the Sierra / OEM parts side by side and I just could not see any difference.
*** looking back 5yrs later, I probably would use the Mercruiser OEM parts - the only problem I had with Sierra was the trim sender, it was always a bit flaky. The other parts seemed fine, but still not worth the risk with the minimal cost savings.


The two parts that prompted this repair where the shift cable bellows (leaking) and the trim limit switch (could not trim up) - the u-joint and exhaust bellows still looked to be in decent shape.


This is a hard job! Not technically, but physically. Things are very hard to access, stuck together, heavy and dirty. I did all of the work alone except the shift cable - I had help feeding it through the transom. It is about impossible to get it fed around the Y-pipe without a helper.


Some final thoughts:
-You cannot do this job without the tools I listed above - you will drive yourself nuts and probably damage your new parts.


-Get a good flexible shaft screw driver and every conceivable swivel socket combination you can think of for the clamps, you will need them.


-Take pictures of everything, you won't remember things when you go to re-assemble.


-I went with an exhaust tube this time. I hear it will make the engine sound a little louder, but is was easy to install and saved $ on the special tool.
*** Looking back, I wish I had installed the full exhaust bellows, boat was always louder and produced soot all over the transom. Buy the tool and install the full exhaust bellows.


-Be careful removing the oil line and water hose when removing the bell housing - just cut them and replace with new. If not you risk breaking the plastic fittings that pass these through the transom. Depending on the boat you could have a real problem replacing a $15part due to the tight access behind the engine. I broke my oil fitting - took another 3hrs of removing stuff to get it replaced - on most boats the oil cooler and steering has to come loose to access it. A real PIA.
*** Really pay attention to this - you will be in serious trouble due to the access in most boats.


So in the end, I'm tired and a little banged up, but my wallet still has the $1000 labor in it and I feel a pretty good sense of accomplishment. I am not looking forward to doing this job again anytime soon.


Last remaining item is fine tuning the shift cable adjustment next weekend with the boat in the water.
 
Thank you guys for the response. Bill, thank you for the detailed response! That is great information for sure. I figured it would be a job, it sounds like something I would rather hire done. I always have the impeller done every 2-3 years. This will be year 3, so I plan to take care of that. I might pull the outdrive and inspect things before spending a lot of money on bellows and gimbal bearing. I know that I had the gimbal bearing done when I got the boat. The shift cable was replaced when I got the boat also. I wonder if the bellow would have been done with it...not sure about that. I also wonder if the main bellow was done with the gimbal bearing due to the gimbal needing to be replaced, like maybe the bellow was bad and allowed water infiltration or something. I wish a had the receipts from the work, but I do not. It is possible a couple of bellows were replaced in the last 6 years. I don't have any leaks anywhere, and I'm trying to keep it that way. We store the boat under a carport year round with the drive down. It does stay in the water on the weekends that we go to the lake, but usually only for 1 or 2 nights, with 1 extended stay of about a week around July 4th.
 
Based on what you are saying, it's pretty likely the bellows have already been replaced. If they were and done correctly, with the way you store your boat, you probably don't need to change them. The small shift cable bellows is almost always the first one to go and start leaking. At that point, just change them all. Sounds like you are good with removing the drive and replacing the water pump impeller -- so just buy yourself an alignment tool and start checking the alignment and inspecting the bellows and gimbal bearing. Gimbal bearing turns smooth, then just grease it (if it is greasable) - bellows, probe around them if they are dry (not leaking) and still feel supple with no cracks starting to form, then call them good for another year. Like I said, my boat was stored and used similar to yours and the bellows went 16yrs and even then were in pretty good shape.
Don't fix what isn't broken.
 
I consider myself a reasonably good mechanic. Today, utube videos are a big help as well. I do 95% of my boat maintenance.

Some years ago a buddy asked me to help him change his bellows. He's kind of a "thrifty" guy and won't spend a lot of money. We spent 2 evenings and finally he took the boat to a mechanic. I won't try THAT again.

When MY bellows needed to be replaced I hired it out as well.

On another note, if you trailer your boat, or if you keep it docked, the need for replacement might be different. My personal trailer boat had the bellows changed every 15 years. When done I had no leakage and they "felt" still OK. If I moored the boat it would have been a lot sooner. Keeping the rubber under water 100% must surely be more severe service, vs. stored in an environmentally secure garage.
 
BillK2632 said:
I would consider inspecting / adjusting / lubricating preventive maintenance - it's not always replacing parts.
Click to expand...
Agreed, not always, but many times it just is.
 
boater2018 said:
I am new to this kind of maintenance for sure. Just searching and seeing how often a gimbal bearing is recommended, I assumed it is due? I’m just not sure how old the bellows are. I would definitely prefer to wait another year and just service the lower unit this year, but also trying to keep maintenance up to date. For freshwater use only, how often should the gimbal and bellows be done? FYI: The shift cable was replaced 6 years ago. My trim gauge doesn’t work, so I figure that one is bad.
Click to expand...
My bellows were original to the boat until last year. The mechanic had the drive off and said they still looked good. But since they were 16 years old I told him to replace them anyway. No need to take the chance. My gimbal bearing is greaseable and I do that at the beginning of every season. Mechanic said it looked as good as new. It is now 17 years old.
 
My 1989 maxium has the original gimbal bearing 35 years ( 500 hrs ) and still going strong,every spring one or two pumps from grease gun. Alpha I with 305 merc engine
 
atrick said:
My 1989 maxium has the original gimbal bearing 35 years ( 500 hrs ) and still going strong,every spring one or two pumps from grease gun. Alpha I with 305 merc engine
Click to expand...
I had the original gimbal on my freshwater boat after 35 years. 1200 hours. No need to replace it. The bellows had been replaced at 17 years and 35. Just because....they didn't need it. Over that 35 year period the impeller had been replaced only 3 times.

Due diligence. Observe condition. Look at temperature gauge all day long. Grease and lube yearly. Store well (not in the driveway in the snow).
 
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