Battery storage

JimG

Well-Known Member
Nov 4, 2008
6,085
Southern WV
Boat Info
2007 310 DA
Kohler 5ECD
Engines
Twin 350 Mags
Raw Water Cooled
V-Drives
This year I'm storing in a building that has AC power but no heat.

Leave the batteries in and run the charger (or a tender)?
or
Take them (4!) out and keep them warm at home?
or
Let'm freeze!
 
I store inside cold. I leave them in and top them off using the on-board charger about once a month. I think they would be fine if I charged them less often but I always need a good excuse to visit the boat over the winter.
 
Batteries are best when you leave the charger on them all the time. They don't have time to sulfate...

Would it be safe to run the on-board charger 24/7 for 6 months?
 
Would it be safe to run the on-board charger 24/7 for 6 months?

Yes - best thing you can do for a battery is to keep it on charge all the time. The built in charger is a very good one. It'd be safe to run the on-board charger 24/7 for 12 months.
 
I have 14 batteries on my boat. 10 six volt for house and four for start and 12 volt system. The six volt are on an inverter/charger. It mimicks the alternator and provides three phase charge Lots of current then not so much then very little until the batteries are full charged then stops charging until the batteries drop below 12.5 (I think) then they get a top up. The 12 volt start batteries are on the charger that SeaRay provide. If left on for months it boils the batteries and has exposed the plates. This one I turn on once a month for 2 to 3 days the six volt I leave on all the time. The six volt has never boiled the batteries below the plates.
 
I wonder if that charger (being older) is either of a different design (compared to newer ones) or possibly isn't functioning as well as it should? I just checked my batteries for the first time this season (yikes!) and added less than 1/4" - where needed. Batteries on this boat are on charge 24/7.
 
What charges the 12 volts on my boat is called a converter and it said to leave a load on it when it on. Been thinking of changing it to a 3 phase one so I can leave it all the time.
 
The model on my boat is a Pro Mariner Flyback series. The nice thing about those (and I'm sure others) is it adds a desulphating mode. They're not called a "flyback" anymore, but PM still makes very good chargers. In case you were curious about what to look for. There used to be rep from PM on this site - not sure if be still is. I think Jim was his name.

On my breaker panel, it's still labelled as "converter". It wasn't until recently that SR started labeling it "batter charger". Interesting.
 
I am curious about what is meant by "3-phase charge" (as I understand it, there is no such thing as 3-phase, or single-phase for that matter, with DC!)? Wouldn't the charger circuit of the inverter/charger simply provide a rectified DC output like an alternator (is this what is meant by "mimics" the alternator), regardless of the AC source type?

It seems most newer Sea Rays have smart chargers, referred to as converters, that manage the batteries with different charge levels as required. Not sure when they started but my 2004 has one as does my buddy's 2002. They do not overcharge. It is just a simple phase-to-neutral (120V) charger.
 
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I assume he means 3 charge cycles...
 
I am curious about what is meant by "3-phase charge" (as I understand it, there is no such thing as 3-phase, or single-phase for that matter, with DC!)? Wouldn't the charger circuit of the inverter/charger simply provide a rectified DC output like an alternator (is this what is meant by "mimics" the alternator), regardless of the AC source type?

It seems most newer Sea Rays have smart chargers, referred to as converters, that manage the batteries with different charge levels as required. Not sure whey they started but my 2004 has one as does my buddy's 2002. They do not overcharge. It is just a simple phase-to-neutral (120V) charger.


A smart charger is a 3 phase/stage charger...Multistage charging ensures batteries receive optimum charging, but with minimal wear and tear, regulating the voltage and current delivered to the batteries in three automatic stages:

  • Bulk: Replaces 70-80% of the battery’s state of charge at the fastest possible rate.
  • Absorption: Replenishes the remaining 20-30% of charge, bringing the battery to a full charge at a slow, safe rate.
  • Float: Voltage is reduced and held constant in order to prevent damage and keep batteries at a full charge.

    BTW, I too have the Flyback 15-3 Pro... Its a great charger so far... I keep mine plugged into shore power 24/7... 12 months...

    DSC08434.jpg


 
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Three phase charge I have has the following readings on the display Bulk lots of AMPS mine puts out 140, Float that is 60 or so AMPS, Absorb that is 15 to 20 AMPS. After that it goes to 0 AMPS and volts read 13+. The converter puts out 60 AMPS at 13+ volts all the time it seems but I can only read the input into it. From what the original manual on the boat says it is designed to provide battery charging and to run the on board 12 volt system, boat is a 1989. If any one knows more about converters please post as I am sure a lot of us are in the dark about them. My electrical person keeps saying I should change it to a smart charger, three phase.
 
Ok, three-stage makes more sense to me!! I have a Progressive Dynamics Inteli-Power PD2030.
http://www.progressivedyn.com/prod_details/marine_conv/marine_conv_pd2030_1.html

It has the following modes:
- Normal (13.6V)
- Boost (14.4V)
- Trickle (13.2V)
- Equalization/Storage (sulfate prevention, 14.4V for 15 minutes every 21 hours)

It is charging whenever connected to shore power, incuding when we are away from the boat for extended periods. Seems to work well. It's also labelled a converter on my panel. This one is not recommended for AGMs.

I currently have two cranking (dual purpose) for starting and a deep-cycle for house use. This winter I planned to add one or two more deep-cycle house batteries. Output 1 to port cranking, output 2 to starboard cranking, output 3 to the bank of two or three deep-cycles. Can anyone tell me if the 30A will be sufficient for reasonable recharge times of two or three standard (~100-125Ah) deep-cycle batteries (the cranking batteries are typically charged-up when I connect to shore power)?
 
My converter is either on or off it has no read outs. It puts out 60 AMPS. The four group 27 deep cycle batteries it is on were not charged for months once and read 3 volts. It took the charger 4 hours to bring them to 13 volts. The one for the house batteries that puts out 140 AMPs takes 8 hours to charge the 10 six volt batteries from 10.5 volts through the three phases to gauged reading 13+ volts and 0 AMPS. On my 28 footer I had four group 27 deep cycle and a 40 AMP charger it work well and kept the batteries up at the dock.
 
Before you open the package, check the specs on your onboard charger. If it talks about "float" or "maintenance" (which it should), then send those back.

If you do keep those, chargers like that typically only work well with one battery. If you are charging two batteries at the same time, they need to be exactly the same type of battery and you should charge each battery individually, then hook them back together and charge them together.

Putting money into the economy is a good thing, but you really don't need to do it. What you have onboard is fine and designed to be left on all the time. Northern seems to have something a little different as it doesn't back off to a maintenance/float mode.
 
So is the charger, on the boat in my sig, smart enough to correctly charge all 3 of my batteries if 1 is a deep cycle, and the other 2 different age cranking batteries?
 
Should be. But, check the owner's manual to be sure.
 
Should be. But, check the owner's manual to be sure.

Most likely, assuming it is similar to the charger on my 2004 280 (see prior post in this thread) and it is connected properly (as it would have been from the factory). The charger on my boat has three outputs that, as I understand it, charge and operate independently.
 

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