Battery Replacement?

Rono007

Rono007

New Member
Dec 17, 2009
796
Danbury, CT
Boat Info
2001 SR 230BR Signature Series
Engines
7.4L Bravo III
I just read the thread pertaining to batteries and the different types for marine purposes and searched around a bit looking for this answer.

Question on all this then ... I have always had the batteries that came with the boat never understading all these "types" of marine batteries. Those batteries have the sudden need to be replaced. I can obviously switch between the 2 or select both (which I do for starting, and run off of one while on the hook).

With a (2001) 25' BR and sitting on the hook for hours with the radio running, what type of batteries should I be looking for to replace the 2 I have, or does it really make a difference with the size boat I have?

Thanks in advance.
 
Rono007 said:
With a (2001) 25' BR and sitting on the hook for hours with the radio running, what type of batteries should I be looking for to replace the 2 I have, or does it really make a difference with the size boat I have?

Thanks in advance.
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Do you have an "enhanced" stereo system with Amps, Sub, etc? And how long do you want to be able to run it on the hook?
 
Good question. I'm "upgrading" the stereo next month - not sure really what I'm going to put in yet. We have small kids, so I don't think we will be thumping the bass while chilling. We can usually sit for 3 or 4 hours before the kids get jittery and we need to move.
 
Rono007 said:
Good question. I'm "upgrading" the stereo next month - not sure really what I'm going to put in yet. We have small kids, so I don't think we will be thumping the bass while chilling. We can usually sit for 3 or 4 hours before the kids get jittery and we need to move.
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I would think Group 27s would be fine unless you get real crazy with the stereo. Especially if you have dual batteries, you can switch to a single when you anchor and use the secondary to start. Then alternate between which one you use each time.

For the most time out, Group 31s will do the trick but that may be a little much for you since you are not running a refrigerator.

I would still go with AGM Batteries- without a doubt.
 
AGM Group 27?

Yea, no fridge. The most we run is the stereo and lights at night (interior and underwater LED's).

Thanks!
 
Right, it's not about the boat size - it's the engine (cold cranking amps needed) and your accessories. If I were in your shoes - and basing my recommendation on what you've said in this post - I'd get a group 24 for the starting battery (something in the 700+ range for CCA) and group 27, deep cycle, for your accessories when you're on the hook. I've had great results with standard, wet cell batteries - but I also have the battery charger (conditioner/maintainer) on all the time when the boats in my driveway.
 
Rono007 said:
AGM Group 27?

Yea, no fridge. The most we run is the stereo and lights at night (interior and underwater LED's).

Thanks!
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That would be my suggestion. Others may have more to add.

The most popular manufacturers used here seem to be Optima, Die Hard Platinum Marine and Lifeline. Personally, I have Die Hard.

The Die Hard Platinum is available in a Group 34, not sure what the charastics are of that battery. It is cheaper and smaller than the Group 31.
 
My boat sits in a slip. I normally have the battery selector switched to 2 (both) when I crank and run. When we are on the hook I alternate between 1 and 2 each time we sit.
 
Here is a chart I found that may help-

Some common battery size codes used are: (ratings are approximate)

U1 34-40 Amp hours
Group 24 70-85 Amp hours
Group 27 85-105 Amp hours
Group 31 95-125 Amp hours
 
Rono007 said:
My boat sits in a slip. I normally have the battery selector switched to 2 (both) when I crank and run. When we are on the hook I alternate between 1 and 2 each time we sit.
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You should be able to start it on one. If you always start it on two, you may not realize when you're starting to have a battery problem. Also, the batteries will recharge faster if you run on one (not both).

Do you have power at the slip? Consider getting something like a Battery Minder - it will definitely make your batteries last longer.
 
3 or 4 hours or more on the hook with just your radio should not degrade a standard marine grade battery enough to warrant the expense of the AGM type. Now, if you are going to add a huge amp and speakers and are cranking up to mega-watts of power to the subwoofer that may be another issue. As much as I love the AGM’s on mine I think it would be overkill for you, and I would just replace with the OEM equivalent of what you already have. Also, think about how long you are going to keep the boat. You can probably replace you current batteries three times before your equal the cost of the higher priced AGM.

Here is something to consider as well. http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_02827582000P?prdNo=4&blockNo=4&blockType=L4
Here is a deep cycle battery that still provides 675 cold cranking amps. You need to know what your requirements are, and you should be able to find that by matching the CCA’s of your current batteries. With the deep cycle battery you will have more “on the hook” capacity plus the fact is can be discharged more frequently without the worry of total failure.
 
Rono007 said:
No power at the slip.
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So how many of these would you need to make it back to your house?:grin:

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If looking at Sears Platinum AGM consider Auto battery in lieu of Marine battery. Specs are the "same" but Auto battery has a 4 year full repalcement warranty (100 month (8 years) pro-rated) in lieu of 3 year (no pro-rate).

I am going Auto Battery (less cost and more warranty) route this Spring unless I am convinced otherwise,
 
tcason said:
If looking at Sears Platinum AGM consider Auto battery in lieu of Marine battery. Specs are the "same" but Auto battery has a 4 year full repalcement warranty (100 month (8 years) pro-rated) in lieu of 3 year (no pro-rate).

I am going Auto Battery (less cost and more warranty) route this Spring unless I am convinced otherwise,
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Sometimes it's fine to buy the automotive counterpart. I get no discount on batteries (well, about $5) so I would buy an automotive one if it was only a cost thing. The reason marine batteries are more expensive is that they are heavier due to having thicker plates inside to withstand the harsh vibrations that boats encounter compared to cars. At least until they build a boat with shocks, that is....:smt001
 
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