Battery charger question??

CAGE RATTLER

CAGE RATTLER

New Member
Apr 10, 2009
400
Essex, MD
Boat Info
85 Amberjack 255
Engines
2010 496 MAG MPI
Ive searched the forum and read all the threads on chargers but still not sure what to get.

Im about to add shore power to my boat and put in an onboard charger to keep my batteries topped off and to be sure my bilge pump doesnt stop working while the boat is in the slip.

Im looking at the pro mariners which seem pretty popular.

Ive noticed in the threads many times to keep it in a dry l;ocation ............ but what about the waterproof battery chargers???

Obviously it will still go in the engine compartment which stays pretty dry but if they do get wet, a waterproof charger wont be hurt.

Ive been contemplating getting the Pro Sport 20 Plus Gen 2 20 amp 3 bank charger. (By the way, my boat has 3 batteries on 2 banks) Can i still use a 3 bank charger and hook 1 lead to each battery even know 2 are on one bank?

Ive also considered the Pro Tech and pro nautic series but the pro sport is just so much more inexpensive. Just curious why more dont use that??
 
CAGE RATTLER said:
Ive searched the forum and read all the threads on chargers but still not sure what to get.

Im about to add shore power to my boat and put in an onboard charger to keep my batteries topped off and to be sure my bilge pump doesnt stop working while the boat is in the slip.

Im looking at the pro mariners which seem pretty popular.

Ive noticed in the threads many times to keep it in a dry l;ocation ............ but what about the waterproof battery chargers???

Obviously it will still go in the engine compartment which stays pretty dry but if they do get wet, a waterproof charger wont be hurt.

Ive been contemplating getting the Pro Sport 20 Plus Gen 2 20 amp 3 bank charger. (By the way, my boat has 3 batteries on 2 banks) Can i still use a 3 bank charger and hook 1 lead to each battery even know 2 are on one bank?

Ive also considered the Pro Tech and pro nautic series but the pro sport is just so much more inexpensive. Just curious why more dont use that??
Click to expand...

some of those units are completely sealed with plastic and you need replace charger when fuse inside goes bad
also heat maybe an issue
 
CAGE RATTLER said:
(By the way, my boat has 3 batteries on 2 banks) Can i still use a 3 bank charger and hook 1 lead to each battery even know 2 are on one bank?
Click to expand...

Yes, ProMariner recommends strapping unused leads together when there's an extra one - which is essentially what you are suggesting. Just know that the charger will see the bank as one battery and will be unable to regulate variable charge to the individual batteries in the bank. Probably not a problem as long as the batteries are identical in type and age.

Basically, it will emulate a 2 bank charger in this config.

edit: An advantage of your scenario is that you could later add a simple On/Off batt switch between the 2 batteries in the bank to allow true 3 bank operation of the charger.
 
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Actually i was asking if it was OK to hook each of the 3 leads to each of the 3 batterries even know 2 of the 3 are in one bank?

Not just using it as a 2 bank charger.
 
I have a 2000 370EC diesel, I just replaced my Pro Mariner charger and talked with the company about going to the waterproof model 3 bank. Problem is searay has a common ground and the waterproof unit has each bank Isolated Positive and Negative for each bank. Choice 1) return to the original unit 2) rewire the boat batteries into separate banks. Best is choice one
 
One of my main concearns is the waterprrof units all seem to have a built in AC cord to plug in. Since im adding shore power and my marina doesnt allow adapters anyway, would i be able to hard wire the charger by cutting off the plug??

Is that safe???

If so, what is the best way to do it??
 
I am happy I have a chance to read the post.

If any one needs and answer immediately just call me that is what I am here for 603-766-7603 or email me jmitchell@pmariner.com.

The concern is that the waterproof units are not designed to serve as a power supply while at the dock. What I mean by that is that the waterproof units are designed to charge batteries not maintain and keep up with constant loads. That is one of the primary differences between the chargers.

In some cases a waterproof unit would be ok but just so you all know it voids warranty to cut the plug off a waterproof unit to hardwire it.

Here is a few hints to help you that do not always apply but can be generalized.

- If you have 4D or 8D batteries you need a drymount charger for example ProTech-i or ProNautic.

- If you need 24v or 36v out you can not use a waterproof unit as they are 12 volts out with isolated outputs which gives them the ability to charge in those configurations. The primary application would be a bass boat or center console with a trolling motor.

- Waterproof units are also good for just charging batteries typically found in boats 14' - 24' .

- If more then 24' then typically the boat would use a dry compartment unit.

- Another thing to note is that if you have a refrigerator, generator, TV or any other large accessory you more then likely need a dry compartment unit. A dry compartment unit is designed to act as a power supply to keep up batteries while accessories are being used to maintain the system. These units need to be hardwired in the boat and would have a breaker deadicated to the charger in the AC distribution panel.

I just want to make sure that you have the correct battery charger for your application so that you get the best possible performance.

Jim
 
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Check out the Charles SP 2000
Designed to be hardwired in.
DC wires from unit attach to three batterys.
Stops charging automatically when batterys are fully charged
Works as a DC power supply while plugged in also.
Was rated #1 in power boat reports along with the Newall PT 25 charger
 
Why exactly would i need a charger that is also a DC power supply??

I need to be hooked up to shore power in order to run the charger so i could run appliances off the shore power as well.
 
CAGE RATTLER
The Chargers DC power supply is not really needed, Its just a luxury item.

If you ever wanted to use a portable genny on the water.
Just plug it in the shore power.
You could pull 20 amps of DC power and the charger would keep up with running the.....
Stereo
Refer?
Bait tank
Anchor light
Flood lights
Spot light
Squid lights
Bilge pump
Interior lights

Without any concern of discharging the batteries.
This same 20 AMP DC power also provides power to your starter and drive tilt unit.

Your right,
What was I thinking.
What possible benefit could you have with that function on the Charles chargers. :huh:

I'm still trying to figure out the purpose of weighing a boat down with appliances. Must be used for ballast :smt017
 
My comment wasnt a knock on your suggestion ....... it was a question

You and pro mariner said the same thing about the chargers being a DC power supply and I just wanted to know what benefits that would give me.

I have no clue about this stuff and trying to learn.
Ive always trailered my boats till this year.

Wouldnt i also be able to just run all those things off the shore power with a genny without a DC power suppy??

In still not understanding how that works.
 
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The power supply term is used for any accessory that is run off DC if the accessory is AC then you need the gen/inverter or shore power to run it. The charger will serve as a power supply to maintain batteries while accessories are being used. Without this you would be pulling your battery voltage down.

I hope that helps.
 
ProMariner said:
The power supply term is used for any accessory that is run off DC if the accessory is AC then you need the gen/inverter or shore power to run it. The charger will serve as a power supply to maintain batteries while accessories are being used. Without this you would be pulling your battery voltage down.

I hope that helps.
Click to expand...

Nicely said,
I need to work on my short version of replies.

Why would you use a DC power supply.
Because I can :lol:

CAGE RATTLER
Guess I was being cranky,
Every 2 to 5 years I toy with letting a Mechanic touch my stuff.
Getting pissed off is always the outcome.
A mechanic quoted me 1000.00 on labor for a repower two years ago. That was even cutting a bigger hole for a Volvo drive.
Now he is talking 2300.00 labor for a Merc Bravo swap.
I was hoping for a break on doing some wrench turning myself.
Being on the computer too much does not help either.
I should be tuning up my little engine now.


ANYHOW,
On our boats, Most accessories are wired to only run on DC power.
On my boat.....
The shore powers AC is only wired to the.....
AC plug outlets, Battery charger, AC/DC Refer, Water heater, and I have one interior light that is AC.


Some DC only stuff is...
Radar, GPS, 600W Fish finder,Floodlights, Bilge pump, Refer when not plugged into shorepower, Stereo and every other operating swtem on the boat.
Having good sized Aux batteries, With a good starting batteries is usually good enough for overnighters. Jumper pack is nice too.

I started shutting my refer off at night, Rarely use the flood lights. Using my jumper pack to run the 100W 8 Amp squid light.
Keeping enough juice in the Aux batteries for my Anchor alarm to work till AM.

By plugging a Genny into my Charles 2000. I would not have to take all these precautions.
My boat use is different then most, Last trip was 2nights and three days at sea.
Not unusual for me to be out there for three nights. Offsets the washing the Dam thing. LOL
 
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