Bad first day of the season for Atlantis :(

Daddubo: Thanks for the suggestion of simple green, I didn't think of that. I was planning on using some Super Clean but I'm concerned that it would damage the fiberglass - it's some pretty caustic stuff. I may try some liquid laundry soap too like Tide or something. At any rate it's going to be a bit of a job to get it all nice an clean again (prior to this incident my bilge was sparkely clean with no oily residue or even dirt).

tdappleman: I've managed to the standing goo drained out the bilge drain hole and captured for proper disposal. The coating that's left on everything I'll clean at the local car wash that captures and recycles the water used to wash cars with. I may not be an "enviro-nut", but I'm certainly enviornmentally concious.

sprink56: I've got the use of a large automotive shop to do the work in with a celing crane to pull the engine easily and a nice temperature controlled enviornment. :)

ARCADIE IV: The Starboard engine filling up with water make it heavy enough to cause the list. It didn't take long to completely fill up the crankcase and start spewing the foamy oil/water mix out the crankcase vents and all over the top of the engine. The goo in the bilge is what ran off the top of the engine into the bilge, of course coating everything in it's path along the way. Whatever happened was letting a lot of lake water into the crankcase. I'll know more once I get the engine out and torn down. It never did hydrolock or miss either one. It was a little slow to rev up in neutral just before it started spewing goo but I theorize that's because it already had a frothy mess at that point in the crankcase which gave some resistance to the crank turning.

1956olds: Thanks for the suggestion - I'll look them up if I can't find a donor boat / engine locally. I may have found one that I'm going to look at this weekend (fingers crossed)...

83searay: Send you a PM already. I can find all kind of OMC manifolds for the 5.7, 4.3, etc. but just can't find anything for the 3.8. Hopefully the 4.3 manifolds are the same dimensions where they bolt to the block and I can just do some exhaust plumbing to make a center rise 4.3 manifold work.

tdappleman: No worries - in most cases somebody indicating they can't find something is because they haven't looked very hard or used online resources. This is kind of a unique case (even for classic OMC stuff) since I've been able to find somewhere just about everything else I've needed - just not these manifolds.

Again, thank you all for your suggestions. :) Hopefully this donor boat will have a good engine (and good manifolds that will last at least until I can find a way to make something else work). The other benefit is that I'll have some spare Stringer 800 parts if I can negociate a fair price.
 
sounds like your getting it done .also try dawn dish soap it cuts grease pretty good.the castrol will strip the wax right off your boat.
 
sounds like your getting it done .also try dawn dish soap it cuts grease pretty good.the castrol will strip the wax right off your boat.
+ 1 on the Dawn Dish soap. I have used for many years flushing cooling systems on HD Diesel engines when oil coolers have failed into the coolant system. Makes allot of suds! When time to get all soap cleaned up, cold water knocks down suds and rinses away squeaky clean.
 
How about some plane old Gunk engine degreaser, a few can’s of that go a long way and then the soap to take the film off.:thumbsup:
 
Thanks for the suggestion on the Dawn dish soap - worked beautifully. Now that the engine compartment is squeaky clean I can do something with it. :)

When I sucked the muck out of the engine I wound up getting 4 gallons of lake water and only about 2 oz of oil so it had displaced all of the crankcase oil out of the engine through the crankcase vents. I went ahead and filled the engine with fresh oil and disconnected the cooling line (still keeping the water running through the drive to save the impeller) and tried to turn the engine over to get some oil back into the bearings but the engine was hydrolocked now so either water got past the rings and filled at least one cyl. with water or the initial problem is more like a head gasket or intake gasket instead of a cracked block. I'm of course hoping for the gasket... lol

We'll see what I find when I tear down the top of the engine and maybe with any luck I'll find just a gasket or maybe a cracked head and won't have to replace one or both engines (if I can't find a 3.8).

Thanks again for all the suggestions and sympathy. :)
 
Thanks for the suggestion on the Dawn dish soap - worked beautifully. Now that the engine compartment is squeaky clean I can do something with it. :)

When I sucked the muck out of the engine I wound up getting 4 gallons of lake water and only about 2 oz of oil so it had displaced all of the crankcase oil out of the engine through the crankcase vents. I went ahead and filled the engine with fresh oil and disconnected the cooling line (still keeping the water running through the drive to save the impeller) and tried to turn the engine over to get some oil back into the bearings but the engine was hydrolocked now so either water got past the rings and filled at least one cyl. with water or the initial problem is more like a head gasket or intake gasket instead of a cracked block. I'm of course hoping for the gasket... lol

We'll see what I find when I tear down the top of the engine and maybe with any luck I'll find just a gasket or maybe a cracked head and won't have to replace one or both engines (if I can't find a 3.8).

Thanks again for all the suggestions and sympathy. :)

Have you taken the plugs out and tried to turn it over?
 
Just got to taking the plugs out this afternoon - sometimes work just gets in the way of the much more important things in life... lol

Anyway, all 6 cylinders had water in them but once the plugs were out the engine turns over quite nicely - very smooth - no odd noises at all. I put copious amounts of WD-40 in the cylinders and cranked the engine for a while to get the cylinder walls lubricated, the water removed and to circulate the fresh oil in the engine to all the bearings, journals, oil passages, etc. hoping to prevent any damage and corrosion from the water.

I guess that with the crankcase full of water and the engine sitting that way for a week must have allowed the water to seep past the rings from the crankcase into the cylinders.

Compression test results are quite good, the spec on the GMC 3.8 V6 is 130 PSI and all the cylinders range between 130 and 140 with an average of 135 and the maximum percent variance being 7.14% - not bad for a 27 year old engine. :)

I also pulled the water pump to thermostat housing hose and discovered that there was oil in the cooling system as well as water in the oil. The only two ways I can think of to get oil in the cooling system in the engine is either a huge crack or hole in the block or a gasket that is blown allowing the oil pressure (10 psi during cranking) to push oil into a water passage. Still hoping to find a bad gasket...

At any rate, I guess it's time to start tearing down the top end and see what there is to see.

It was a beautiful day here in the Denver area - just a hair over 70 degrees. We're getting more and more anxious every day to get the season started... Sometimes it's tempting to take her out and just run on the Port engine, but I guess I should be spending that time working on getting the Starboard engine.... :(
 
Jcjones: Interesting observation on the oil to coolant transfer.

I’m relying mostly on memory here!!… Those vintage GM v6's seem to be somewhat less than ordinary. I believe the oil pump is of a Gerotor type, crank driven, behind the front cover. Also the water pump is up there and passes water through the front cover to the block.

What I’m thinking is the only place that makes sense for oil pressure to penetrate the coolant system seems to be in that front structure area. But that doesn’t explain all the water in the cylinders.

Seems like one failed head gasket or exhaust would fill a few cyls but not all.

Perhaps you’ve got multiple failures here.

One thing is for certain, you’ve got one helova mess brewing.... Keep us up to date.
 
With all that water that was in the engine you still have a lot of moisture in it and more than likely the internals are starting to rust. You might want to put a couple of drop lights or a heater close to the engine to try to evaporate the moisture out of it. Take the valve covers off so the engine can breath.
 

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