B3 Corrosion w/pics.

I agree with John above - I have owned 4 formulas prior to taking delivery of my first Sea Ray this coming weekend, and have had nothing but success by dealing directly with the factory. They have product reps by territory, I am guessing that yours is Chuck Miller - call the factory and have your Hull # and engine serial #'s - the factory # is on thier website. I got alot solved by dealing with them (even once with a boat 2 years out of warranty). If the engines are still under the Merc (versus the formula guard) warranty I can see them wanting you to start with merc. However, if you dont have a merc authorized dealer, you need to find one. If you cant, Formula will reccomend you to one.
 
At Ease said:
Referring to the anode chart from Boatzincs.com, there is no mention of using zinc as an anode for saltwater on boats 2001 and newer. Aluminum is suggested. Magnesium only for fresh water. Supposedly all 2001 and newer outdrives with stainless steel props all shipped with Aluminum anodes.

http://www.boatzincs.com/pdfs/Which_Anodes_Should_I_Use-Chart_Merc-B.pdf
Click to expand...

How about that... I just checked and you're right... those are aluminum anodes on there. I definitely had 'zincs' on my last 2 240s w/B3's. I didn't see any corrosion issues with either of them but apparently the aluminum is better protection and is what Mercury recommends.
Learn somethin' new every day... thanks :smt001
 
Update: Formula did intervene with Merc and they agreed to 2 new BIIIs.
The servicing marina try to say that the bottom paint caused the corrosion because Formula painted next to the sea strainers?? The only requirement Merc has is the 1.5" threshold around the transom brackets. Now, the servicing marina is trying to charge for parts and labor on installing zincs?? New BIIIs come with Aluminum zincs dumb chit! And this is a "well respected" shop on the Upper Bay.
 
Lucky you on spanking new BIII's. I've got a 2001 230BR (just bought 2 weeks ago) with moderate corrosion. I've read all the threads and know what to look for to solve the problem in the long run (hopefully I can figure it out on my own)

Question is what to do with my current BIII. What is the best way to prep before primer / paint. Use a metal stripper on a drill / grinder / sandpaper??? How much should I be looking to get off or am I just trying to get to shiny metal to hold the primer and paint?
 
mdutton11 said:
Lucky you on spanking new BIII's. I've got a 2001 230BR (just bought 2 weeks ago) with moderate corrosion. I've read all the threads and know what to look for to solve the problem in the long run (hopefully I can figure it out on my own)

Question is what to do with my current BIII. What is the best way to prep before primer / paint. Use a metal stripper on a drill / grinder / sandpaper??? How much should I be looking to get off or am I just trying to get to shiny metal to hold the primer and paint?
Click to expand...

I do believe Merc has guidence for painting ODs. Check-out the web page
 
mdutton11 said:
Lucky you on spanking new BIII's. I've got a 2001 230BR (just bought 2 weeks ago) with moderate corrosion. I've read all the threads and know what to look for to solve the problem in the long run (hopefully I can figure it out on my own)

Question is what to do with my current BIII. What is the best way to prep before primer / paint. Use a metal stripper on a drill / grinder / sandpaper??? How much should I be looking to get off or am I just trying to get to shiny metal to hold the primer and paint?
Click to expand...


boater ed.com has a great write up on how to do this correctly....it is labor intensive.Look in the engines electric plumbing section.It is always up top.Here's a link.Not sure if it will work here though.Take out the space in the 1st word.
http://www.********.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=97217
 
Summerwind said:
Now, the servicing marina is trying to charge for parts and labor on installing zincs?? New BIIIs come with Aluminum zincs dumb chit! And this is a "well respected" shop on the Upper Bay.
Click to expand...
Summerwind, Maybe the aluminum ones are being changed out to Magnesium or zinc because you are in fresh water? Aluminum is not for fresh water. Just a thought as to why they might be charging you for new anodes.:huh:
 
Mercruiser states it is OK to use Al. in fresh water or can also use Mg.. I've used AL and have had no corrosion issues (be sure Mercathode is working).
 
This thread interests me in the composition of anodes discussion. All the years my dad has had boats I thought the anode was zinc. We have always been in freshwater. Last year when we had some pitting of the bronze underwater gear I started investigating the topic. Does SR ship all their boats with zinc and leave the customer to change the anode based on the location and type of water? We have never changed the anodes all these years on any of his boats but also never had any issues. This was up until last year when this pitting started. Now I'm wondering if it would be beneficial to change to a different type of anode. I believe the one on there now is zinc but how do you tell by looks alone? Are they different color or marked somehow?
 
During conversation with my mechanic, he indicated that the Mercathode system does not work well in "moving water". I am docked in the Hudson River. The statement came up after discussing corrrosion on my 2006 B3's.
 
Skuza said:
This thread interests me in the composition of anodes discussion. All the years my dad has had boats I thought the anode was zinc. We have always been in freshwater. Last year when we had some pitting of the bronze underwater gear I started investigating the topic. Does SR ship all their boats with zinc and leave the customer to change the anode based on the location and type of water? We have never changed the anodes all these years on any of his boats but also never had any issues. This was up until last year when this pitting started. Now I'm wondering if it would be beneficial to change to a different type of anode. I believe the one on there now is zinc but how do you tell by looks alone? Are they different color or marked somehow?
Click to expand...

I personally have never been able to tell a difference. They all appear 'silver' in color. I change my anodes annually whether they absolutely need it or not. What you might find is that despite believing that they don't need replacement, I would bet if you compared a new anode to the size of your current one, it would be greatly different.

Doug
 
Very intresting question - I just bought a 2001 230BR with B3 from someone who moored it on the Columbia River in OR. He said there was no corrosion when he bought it 4 years ago, however now there is a fair amount (I haven't had a chance to check the mercathode yet). If the water current is an issue that just might explain the corrosion. Anyone else care to comment? Any idea how much current (if any) is required to make a difference?
 
tbirdvet said:
Mercruiser states it is OK to use Al. in fresh water or can also use Mg.. I've used AL and have had no corrosion issues (be sure Mercathode is working).
Click to expand...
Wow John, that just throws everything off:smt021When you say "Mercruiser", was this a call to Mercury Marine or a service tech at a local marina? Too confusing. Note to self....next boat.... V-drives.
 
Dave,

First - that's GREAT that it seems your troubles are in the past! I know how things like that can become consuming.

Your pictures raised a question (at least for me, anyways!)...

After being in the water for 7 or 8 months, your anodes don't appear to be used up too much. Is that typical for your area, or do you think the Mercathodes are simply doing the brunt of the work? Or, are they what you would have expected and I just can't see it from the pictures?

In the end, who really cares, you know? Whatever the reasoning, it's working for you and, really, that's all that matters. From reading through all your posts on this subject, I know that you've invested a lot of time and effort into this subject and I'm curious if you had any thoughts on that.


Bridog said:
Wow John, that just throws everything off:smt021When you say "Mercruiser", was this a call to Mercury Marine or a service tech at a local marina? Too confusing. Note to self....next boat.... V-drives.
Click to expand...

John is correct:

Zn = Salt ONLY
Mg = Fresh ONLY
Al= Salt or Fresh

But here's the kicker... picking the right anode is not as simple as "fresh or salt water". For example, in fresh water, sometimes Mg works best, sometimes Al works best. Sometimes Mg actually overprotects in certain fresh waters and causes the paint to bubble off in areas (usually edges such as around the carrier bearing).

The BEST way to pick the right anode is asking around - locals that have been around for a few years with good success or a reputable shop.
 
Bridog,
If you go to the Mercruiser site it states that all B3 sterndrives come with Al anodes. They also note that you can use Mg in fresh water if required. I found in my area that Al appears to work well. I agree with the notion about asking around in your area and see what works best in your water conditions.
 
Lazy Daze said:
Dave,

First - that's GREAT that it seems your troubles are in the past! I know how things like that can become consuming.

Your pictures raised a question (at least for me, anyways!)...

After being in the water for 7 or 8 months, your anodes don't appear to be used up too much. Is that typical for your area, or do you think the Mercathodes are simply doing the brunt of the work? Or, are they what you would have expected and I just can't see it from the pictures?

In the end, who really cares, you know? Whatever the reasoning, it's working for you and, really, that's all that matters. From reading through all your posts on this subject, I know that you've invested a lot of time and effort into this subject and I'm curious if you had any thoughts on that.
Click to expand...


Dennis

If you are referring to my last posting on the subject http://clubsearay.com/forum/showthread.php?t=30230 then I feel that my transom plate mercathode was the culprit. When it was not working properly (which could have been the entire time I owned the boat) then the anodes themselves seemed to corrode much faster (particularly the prop nut anode) and would have to be replaced yearly. So the only conclusion I can draw is the mercathode is designed to minimize corrosion to begin with whether that be the on the drive itself or the rate of speed the anodes are corroding. But I am only hypothesizing here and don't know if I am correct in this conclusion or not. Maybe I will ask more questions of my dealer's technicians on this subject just to confirm this.

Dave
 
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