Anyone trailer a 260 Sundancer

[tdappleman]

I believe that with proper setup of your trailer, as well as the proper set points. You will not and should not HAVE TO power up to get one or off the trailer. Most people I see powering up or off could have fixed their setup to ensure safty of others. Pulling or pushing water near a dock is a risky and in my mind a liability. I see it every week....

I have never needed to power up or off.... Never....

Not sure what type of water you boat in but power loading is almost a requirement for larger boats in my area. To back the trailer far enough into the water means the bow pulpit will hit the bow stop/winch stand - pull the trailer out slightly after getting the bunks wet and just drive the boat onto the trailer. I don't think I've ever compromised my safety, those around me or any of my equipment. I have seen folks who fell WOT is necessary for loading and that is certainly going to cause problems - I've seen trailers bent, boats damaged, back windows broken, etc. If you've never had to do it - congrats.... Changing bunk locations or other adjustments wouldn't help most situations I've seen. Glad yours works the way you want it too.

 

[Woody]

I understand you concern about powering the boat on the trailer. I can assure you that i do this In a very safe and orderly manner which put's no one but Me, my boat and my truck in harms way. I'm sure theres no safe way in your mind but that is how i do it. THat is the way i have to do it.

Along with not liking the idea of putting all the stress on the front end of the boat I don't like getting my finger chewed off by the winch. Once is enough. I have pictures and would just love to post them.

Where I boat the normal operation is to power your boat on the trailer. I have done this my whole life and the rest of the boating community around me does it as well.

OK, tell the story of how the wench chewed off your finger. Maybe there is something we can learn from it. Pictures aren't necessary but if you want to, go ahead. We've seen some damaged fingers on a different thread, we can handle it.

 

[Zorba]

To be fair to Medic3538 i am stating a new thread regarding Powering on the trailer on winching on. Please post all future referenses to this topic in the new thread. I apologize for the highjack. The post is in te general discussion thread.

 

[bw76273]

We purchased a Load Master for our 260. It has 2 6,000 lb axles with brakes on all four wheels and the fresh water brake flush. I figured right at 8500 lbs "wet" plus othe junk that finds it way in there plus the weight of the trailer which gives a little cushion and not over load the trailer. They had it set up pretty close for the 260 but I had to remove the two smaller rear bunks since the intake for the genny and a/c would have been sitting on the bunks. When it got it I just loosened the bunks a little so they would swivel some, slowly put the boat on and tightened everything up.

I use a 2006 Ford F250 Crew Cab 4X4 diesel to pull the boat out. The four wheel drive makes it nice especially if you have to get your rear tires in the slime.

You do have to be careful on how deep you put the trailer in the water and watch the front anchor to bow stop margin. I will probably try to remedy that this winter. We don't really trailer it much but pull it out to clean the back end (tabs, outdrive etc. since it is bottom painted)and give it a good general inspection, wash and wax.

 

[mawyatt]

Have been working on purchasing a 05 or better 260 Sundancer. May need to purchase a trailer seperately from boat. Not too sure what the GVW rating should be on the trailer. I have looked at Sea Ray web site, spoke to dealer, done searches and I get a lot of different responses. I figure I should just find someone who trailers one already and give me the 411.
Does anyone use a powerwinch for their trailers as well? How do you like it? Any recommendations for a winch for this boat?

Thanks in advance!!

We had a 2005 260 on a 3 axle (with brakes on each axle) trailer before we traded up. Had no problems towing with a Ford 150 4X4 with tow package. I think you want 4 wheel drive as a minimum, we would see many slipping and sliding on the slippery ramps with 2 wheel drive, but the 4 wheel drive would bite and bring the 260 out without a problem. We didn't tow very far (Usually < 35 miles one way, most of the time < 15 miles) so never worried about towing mileage. We used a hand winch to crank up, sometimes a little tiring but never a problem.

Mike

 

[medic3538]

We had a 2005 260 on a 3 axle (with brakes on each axle) trailer before we traded up. Had no problems towing with a Ford 150 4X4 with tow package. I think you want 4 wheel drive as a minimum, we would see many slipping and sliding on the slippery ramps with 2 wheel drive, but the 4 wheel drive would bite and bring the 260 out without a problem. We didn't tow very far (Usually < 35 miles one way, most of the time < 15 miles) so never worried about towing mileage. We used a hand winch to crank up, sometimes a little tiring but never a problem.

Mike

Was the F150 rated to tow the boat? My insurance guy told me that if I tow the boat with a vehicle "they" say is not rated to pull the boat and I get into any type of accident, they will not cover. A F150 would be cheaper for sure. I guess I should ask the insurance guy what the acceptable tow vehicles are. I am seeing on this site that the F250 appears to be the minimum needed for the 260DA. I am going to go check out the Ford website. The F150's appear to be much cheaper the 250's. Thanks for the post!

 

[tdappleman]

Was the F150 rated to tow the boat? My insurance guy told me that if I tow the boat with a vehicle "they" say is not rated to pull the boat and I get into any type of accident, they will not cover. A F150 would be cheaper for sure. I guess I should ask the insurance guy what the acceptable tow vehicles are. I am seeing on this site that the F250 appears to be the minimum needed for the 260DA. I am going to go check out the Ford website. The F150's appear to be much cheaper the 250's. Thanks for the post!

You'll find many opinions on this - it really depends on how much your total rig weighs and which F150 you are talking about. Here is a link which may help you decide which tow rig to go after:

http://www.trailerboats.com/output.cfm?id=1323397&sectionid=318

 

[mawyatt]

Was the F150 rated to tow the boat? My insurance guy told me that if I tow the boat with a vehicle "they" say is not rated to pull the boat and I get into any type of accident, they will not cover. A F150 would be cheaper for sure. I guess I should ask the insurance guy what the acceptable tow vehicles are. I am seeing on this site that the F250 appears to be the minimum needed for the 260DA. I am going to go check out the Ford website. The F150's appear to be much cheaper the 250's. Thanks for the post!

Yes the 150 was rated for 9200lbs towing and the loaded boat and trailer were under this. We had the heavy towing package, 4X4 drive and deep grooved off road tires. This combo worked very well for us. However we did not travel far and kept off the interstate, and stayed under 55mph. The 150 listed for near $40K....so not exactly cheap.

Mike

 

[390pi]

As for the tow vehicle...

Here's some actual info from towing our 290 with different trucks the exact same route throughout the summer for 5 years now:

2005 Ford F250
Crewcab/auto 5spd/4x4/V-10/4.10:
MPG: 12 combined non-towing; 7 towing

2007Chevy 2500HD
Crewcab/Alison 6spd/4x4/6.6L Duramax/3.73
MPG: 16 combined non towing; 11 towing

2002 GMC 2500HD
Extracab/Alison 5spd auto/8.1L gas/3.73
MPG: 12 combined non towing; 7 towing

The diesel has all the torque you need, but at a high initial price .

The Ford V-10 and the GM 8.1L are comparable and have virtually the same hp/tq ratings. (The 8.1L was discontinued in 2007) They do have less maintenance then the diesel and are cheaper to buy. Resale for everything is terrible right now, so, in my opinion, it is a good time to buy used.

I rarely use my truck for anything else but towing the boat and ocassionally a car trailer. Therefore, it probably was not the best idea for me to tie up that money in the diesel since it just sits. Looking back, I really cannot justify the extra cost of the diesel since the gas engined trucks did just fine.

You can probably get a great deal on a big block anything (Suburban 2500, F250, 2500HD, etc) because of the gas prices and will do just fine towing.

Any 3/4 ton GM truck with the 6.0 will work if you get the 4.10 axle ratio.