Anyone ever seen a bolt like this?

rondds

Well-Known Member
Oct 3, 2006
8,859
Jersey Shore
Boat Info
2001 380DA
Engines
Merc 8.1s (2008)...Hurth ZF 63 V-drives...WB 7.0 BCGD (2013), Garmin 8208 & 740 MFDs, GMR 24xHD dome
Bolt.jpg


This is the bolt that fits into the slotted opening on my genny raw water pump bracket. The bolt has stripped the threads in the block and now is useless. There is another 1/2" of thread inside the block that is not engaged by this bolt so my plan was to get a bolt 1/2" longer, torque it down and be done with it. No such luck. Can't find this thing anywhere. The threads are very odd and do not match anything on my fancy combo metric/standard thread gauge. McMaster Carr has nothing like it. My alternative is to drill out the existing hole and use a Helicoil and replace the whole shibang with a 7/16" bolt.

Of note is the following:
This is a Quicksilver 6.5kW, which is a Nissan 4 cylinder engine. The bolt measures 11mm at the non-threaded part and a shade less than 11mm at the threads. This pic below shows the bolt in position on the block. The busted bracket is now repaired but that was another thread back a few months.

100_0855.jpg
 
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Yes, it's a bolt that I recognize. Happy to help. Y'all have a good night now.


Can't tell from the photo, but 99% sure since it's a neesan engine that it's metric. The head is fairly common. Use a 12 pt socket on it. They don't round off like hex heads.

Either drill and tap the block for a new bolt or drill and insert a Time Sert. I'd use the Time Sert.

Best regards,
Frank
 
Frank
Jon found this for me... http://www.mcmaster.com/#91271a678/=2g65vp
Right bolt but not available in metrics - even if it was available in metric, the bolt I removed doesn't match anything on the thread gauge.
100_1432.jpg


Todd
Thanks for the link but I'd sooner drill and retap or use one of the thread repair kits out there than order a custom bolt.
 
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Yes, it's a bolt that I recognize. Happy to help. Y'all have a good night now.


Can't tell from the photo, but 99% sure since it's a neesan engine that it's metric. The head is fairly common. Use a 12 pt socket on it. They don't round off like hex heads.

Either drill and tap the block for a new bolt or drill and insert a Time Sert. I'd use the Time Sert.

Best regards,
Frank

Frank, I just sent him out to get a helicoil kit, now you are going to get him all stirred up with the mention of using a Time Sert
 
Ron....right down route 9 a bit from your marina, about a mile or so, there is a small nut and bolt shop. He's open M-F. If you're down there early on Friday afternoon, you may want to stop in. Even if he can't help you with this one, he may become a good reference for future stuff on your " 'ol tub ".....
 
Looks like the cylinder head bolts on my Miata - as mentioned a good 12 point socket will take care of it but you already have it out. If the block is stripped - I'd just tap it to a more common thread size and use a good grade 5 or 8 bolt to reattach.
 
Thanks everyone. I was playing with the helicoil kit I purchased. Just for kicks I tried screwing the coil onto the bolt. Turns out the mystery bolt is 7/16" #14. If my damn thread gauge had that particular size (it jumps right over #14), all this bru-ha-ha would have never happened. BTW, the bolt head was not stripped - just the first 4 or so threads inside the block.

Anyway, I ordered a new standard head 7/16" #14 bolt from McMaster Carr (along with some other stuff I needed anyway) and it'll be here tomorrow. I'll chase the block threads with a tap and with a 1/2" longer bolt I can engage the rest of the unused thread and save an awful lot of trouble. That was my original plan. Then, b/c I'm annoyed with it, I'm returning the stupid thread gauge!

Dom, I'll keep that guy in mind. It's real hard to find old fashioned well-stocked hardware store anywhere.
 
Ron, just be careful that that was the original bolt and someone didn't ram in the wrong bolt during a previous repair, which would explain the damaged threads.
 
James:
Who-ever could you be talking about?!

Mike:
Good point but I think the strip was my fault. When James brazed the busted bracket for me, we discussed using a washer to distribute the forces of the bolt on the bracket, to prevent a recurrence of the break. When I placed the washer on, the bolt now only engaged about 4 threads b/c of the additional space created by the washer. I think the whole thing rattlled loose after about an hour and a half of running time. I happened to notice that the belt was frayed while checking the water in the batteries and after pulling the pump off and trying to re bolt it on , the threads stripped. My bad. Just the same, I'm going to chase the existing threads with a tap before replacing.
 

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