any other option besides cracked block?

The casting plugs (as you correctly ID's them) are just that - plugs to seal up holes during the casting process. They are not designed to be "freeze plugs" - that's a misnomer in the industry. SOMETIMES you get lucky and one or two will pop out and save the block. But that's more by chance - not by design.

Your flappers (if they still have the rubber part) are designed to prevent water from backing up and into the engine from the outside. If the engine had ingested water that way, it would not have run back to the dock/ramp.

There are other ways for water to get in - such as through the throttle body.

But, at this point, if you had clean oil to start with (unless there was water in the oil... and after sitting a while, the oil would be on top), and now have milky oil, there is likely a crack.

Do a compression check as a starting point.
Exactly. The formal name is Welsh Plug.
 
Pressure test won't work with the freeze plugs popped out. Pull the intake off and look for a crack in the lifter valley like mentioned.
OOps, missed the part of a gaping hole in the cooling system already. But, he could put one of those rubber pipe stoppers (that have the nut on them) where the freeze plug popped out and still run the pressure test.
 
If you have a crack you will see it
 
hi all, i removed the intake today and i dont see any cracks. what i did find though is ALOT of rust around the coolant ports. its really built up, is it possible that i dont have a cracked block, and these 4 coolant jackets are leaking into the valley? check out these pics of both the intake, and block and valley. please let me know your thoughts. i think this boat sat for longer than i was told. there is also half of a thermostat in the housing....weird.
 

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Those freeze plugs popped out for a reason
i understand, but i have also read many instances where they have popped out on people and no leaks. i dont see any cracks in the valley as some have mentioned, but i did find all of that crazy thick rust around the coolant ports on both the intake and block. the boat apparently sat for a long time, wondering if the rust breached the gasket possibly, and thats where the water was flowing into the engine from?
 
i understand, but i have also read many instances where they have popped out on people and no leaks. i dont see any cracks in the valley as some have mentioned, but i did find all of that crazy thick rust around the coolant ports on both the intake and block. the boat apparently sat for a long time, wondering if the rust breached the gasket possibly, and thats where the water was flowing into the engine from?


That pic shows evidence of not being sealed and possibly leaking. Hard to tell without actually seeing the whole thing though.

If this were me, I would try and clean that all up and then re-install the intake and run the engine again on muffs for a while an hr or so re-checking the oil while it's running. If there is a crack it will show up as soon as the engine is warm or sooner. Of course you also need to re-plug the welsh plugs. You can get rubber ones for this test though. You don't need to pop in brass ones right away.
 
hi, here are some picture of the gaskets, and manifold areas. the rust is very thick in some areas, i think i can see possible areas it was leaking? any thoughts? also in the one corner was a ton of milky oil you can se in the picture.
 

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You could clean it up, put it back together and then pressure test it.
sounds good, im not familiar with how to do a pressure test. do i just plug off all 4 of he hoses from the thermostat housing and make on of them a fitting for the pressure tester? its a 1999 sea ray 185 bow rider with 4.3l mercruiser alpha one. would you mind explaining how to set up the pressure test?
 
one more question, this boat sat a while, and i see lots of rust inside the motor everywhere. will the rust make its way out of the exhaust? are there any small ports anywhere that may clog? i just noticed the thermostat is out of the housing, or partly missing.
 

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Just based on the level of corrosion, I would pull the engine and go through it. It sucks getting stranded out with engine problems. If the block is good you can rebuild it pretty cheap.
 
how do you all remove your engines? did you make a home made hoist with come along and strap to lift it out? as far as going throug the engine, my compression is good (180-190) so im thining head gaskets are good as i dont have exterior leak at the heads either, and im hoping once i fix this intake, and put the casting plugs back in i will be good to go for a while. i would like to get a few trips on this engine to confirm all is ok with block before i tear down and invest in a rebuild. im hoping this intake repair fixes the water in oil and then i will be very relieved.
 
Harbor freight winch in the garage ceiling, come along around a tree. It’s pretty easy with your boat.
 
I definitely think your intake was leaking into the valley Cold probably blew the gasket
 
I definitely think your intake was leaking into the valley Cold probably blew the gasket
im hoping so....fingers crossed. i ordered intake gaskets, exhaust manifold gaskets, black rtv today.
 
im hoping so....fingers crossed. i ordered intake gaskets, exhaust manifold gaskets, black rtv today.
If the block looks that bad, the manifold are probably shot. I was replacing the risers on a FWC engine every 5 years. If a riser or manifold leaks internally, it will fill the motor with salt water. Had it happen on a merc 525 blower motor.
 
Those intake gaskets regardless whether they leaked or not has nothing to do with your block being filled with water and popping those plugs.
You may get lucky. pressure test at the t-stat housing
 
Those intake gaskets regardless whether they leaked or not has nothing to do with your block being filled with water and popping those plugs.
You may get lucky. pressure test at the t-stat housing
hi, yea i understand what your saying, they did have 3 of the 5 plugs out, the 2 that were left in were on the block. im hoping im dealing with 2 seperate problems, im hoping the intake gasket was allowing water in, and the casting plugs just popped out, and i can replace and no leaks.
 
If the block looks that bad, the manifold are probably shot. I was replacing the risers on a FWC engine every 5 years. If a riser or manifold leaks internally, it will fill the motor with salt water. Had it happen on a merc 525 blower motor.
hi, i have the one piece exhaust manifolds. that i dont believe they make anymore. there isnt any rust or anything anywhere on them. i dont see any signs of any water intrusion or rust in them.
 

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