Anode questions

G

gnealon

New Member
Apr 8, 2009
570
West Babylon, NY
Boat Info
2005 280 DA, Garmin 4208
"Ship Faced"
Engines
Twin 5.0L Merc BIII
Guys... I have a couple questions related to my anodes. (BIII drives)

1. The anode on one of my trim cylinders is shifted in a position where i can't get my socket wrench in to remove 1 of the bolts. Has any one else had a problem like this? I can get one of those flexible extensions... just curious if others have these issues. Seems like all the anodes are rotated in a non symmetrical fashion (ie no rhyme or reason)

2. How in the world do you get the rear cavitation plate anode off :smt013. I tried rotating the drives... i was barely able to get one of the 2 bolts out. I know there has got to be a trick.

Anyways... thanks for the help. Getting ready for the summer :smt038
 
If you're not already using it, try using a 1/4" socket wrench set as it'll fit in tighter spaces than a 3/8". A universal or wobble can help, too, on the end of of 4" extension (or the flexible extension as you mentioned). Otherwise, you could try chiseling some of the anode away. If you're out of the water, careful use of a drill and drill bit can be useful, too. It's possible the anode wasn't fully tightened originally and it allowed the hole to become oblong. Or, if the anode was simply left on too long before replacing, the same thing could happen.

I assume you mean the forward anode (meaning furthest from the props)? Trim the drive up and you should be fine.
 
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I just replaced mine yesterday. As Dennis said, tilt the drive to the trailer position. I used a 1/4 drive socket with a 3" or 4" extension and I can get fairly straight on to the hex heads. If there is crap on the bolt heads, just keep working the socket and it will finally match up.
 
How did your Mercathode reference electrodes look? I replaced the port one last year, this year I have to replace the starboard one. The electrode (wire) on mine corroded where the wire is exposed at the center of the plastic housing.
 
Stray Cat said:
How did your Mercathode reference electrodes look? I replaced the port one last year, this year I have to replace the starboard one. The electrode (wire) on mine corroded where the wire is exposed at the center of the plastic housing.
Click to expand...

Stray - Ya know... I'm not sure. This is my first time ever w/ this system and don't know much about it. I was going to ask on CSR before i put the boat in the water. I "think" i know what you are referring too. Its a plastic piece mounted to the bottom of the gimbal housing right? I have thin(stranded and bare) wires going from that to trim cylinders. I don't see a sheathing on the wire at all. Maybe I am looking at the wrong thing :huh:
 
gnealon said:
Stray - Ya know... I'm not sure. This is my first time ever w/ this system and don't know much about it. I was going to ask on CSR before i put the boat in the water. I "think" i know what you are referring too. Its a plastic piece mounted to the bottom of the gimbal housing right? I have thin(stranded and bare) wires going from that to trim cylinders. I don't see a sheathing on the wire at all. Maybe I am looking at the wrong thing :huh:
Click to expand...

Yes, it has two bolts that fasten into the junction manifold for the hydraulic lines for your trim cylinders. It is just forward of the annode you replaced on the front your drive. Take a look on the underside of the plastic housing. The electrode (about the size of a heavy paperclip wire) should be visible without any growth on it. The electrode wire wraps around the underside of the plastic housing, but it doesn't rejoin at the center where the wire is exposed at the center of the housing....take a look, you'll see what I mean.

The stranded and bare wires you refer to are likely the hydraulic trim hoses. If you look around on your drive, you will see stainless bonding wires (they look like a fishing leader). Those little grounding wires bond the outdrive to the negative ground buss.

 
Stray Cat said:
Yes, it has two bolts that fasten into the junction manifold for the hydraulic lines for your trim cylinders. It is just forward of the annode you replaced on the front your drive. Take a look on the underside of the plastic housing. The electrode (about the size of a heavy paperclip wire) should be visible without any growth on it. The electrode wire wraps around the underside of the plastic housing, but it doesn't rejoin at the center where the wire is exposed at the center of the housing....take a look, you'll see what I mean.

The stranded and bare wires you refer to are likely the hydraulic trim hoses. If you look around on your drive, you will see stainless bonding wires (they look like a fishing leader). Those little grounding wires bond the outdrive to the negative ground buss.

Click to expand...

Stray - Thanks for the info. I just noticed yesterday that one of my bonding wires (stainless fishing leader) is broken and hanging off. It looks to me that the trim cylinder needs to come off to get to that small nut that holds it on. Is that true? Any experience with this? Thanks.
 
Hey, A nut driver also woks for the Trim cylinder anode. Re: Bonding wire. I also had a broken Bonding wire. I got the whole set for Marine Max for $25. John G
 
JohnEGraham said:
Hey, A nut driver also woks for the Trim cylinder anode. Re: Bonding wire. I also had a broken Bonding wire. I got the whole set for Marine Max for $25. John G
Click to expand...

Thanks John. How did you remove the small nut between the trim cylinder and the drive? Seems impossible to get to w/o remove the cylinder.

Thanks.
 
I did not install it yet. I did notice that it was not going to be easy. The wire goes way in, The Drive may need to be removed.
I just bought a tork for the screw driver.
The Bonding kit give you multiple bonding wires. What I will do for now is solder a new piece of wire to the old wire (plenty to work with)
No way am I going to start messing around with the Drive or Trim Cylinder.
John G
 
JohnEGraham said:
I did not install it yet. I did notice that it was not going to be easy. The wire goes way in, The Drive may need to be removed.
I just bought a tork for the screw driver.
The Bonding kit give you multiple bonding wires. What I will do for now is solder a new piece of wire to the old wire (plenty to work with)
No way am I going to start messing around with the Drive or Trim Cylinder.
John G
Click to expand...

John, let me know how you make out. You may want to ask around (I'm not a pro at this) and find out if soldering is OK. I assume you'll be using lead solder. Would dissimilar metals be a problem? Solder is not very strong at all, I don't know if it could hold up w/ the force of water going over it. Like i said, could be totally wrong, but i'd definitely ask around. Good Luck!!!
 
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