Anchoring Questions

[DDD]

There are areas around me that you can anchor up and hang out on the beach.
Being a relative novice, I would love some anchoring advice.

Have been positioning my bow into the wind or current. Then dropping anchor and backing up to engage.

1. How do you really tell if that anchor is engaged into the bottom. Sometime I see the rode taught, but wonder it is just the weight of the anchor doing it vs it being engaged into the bottom.

2. I see some people using a stern anchor in addition to the bow, and some people do not.
I assume this is to prevent your boat from drifting around the axis of the bow anchor. Sounds like a good plan, but are there any disadvantages or reasons not to use the stern anchor as well?

3. What is the best way to lay the stern anchor? Just drop it straight down? It's difficult to cast it out given it's weight.

4. Am I correct that you let out 5 feet per every foot of depth? I guess I need to mark off my chain and rode, as I am finding this difficult to estimate.

Sorry for all of the questions. Thanks in advance!

 

[trit21]

5:1 for a day holding with light winds, 7:1 for overnight and strong winds or more if needed. You can tell if you anchor is engaging the bottom (and I'm not trying to be a smart ass here) if you stop moving. If you have a sand bottom, let out plenty of rode prior to backing down on the anchor, it will allow the anchor and chain (assuming you have some) drag along the bottom engaging the forward 'spike' of the anchor and digging in to the floor. I am not a fan of stern anchors unless you are backed into the beach and can walk it out. Throwing an anchor will never allow for enough rode and you will just fighting is all day. Rule of thumb, whoever is in the anchorage first sets the anchoring protocol. If they do not use a stern, no one should so on. Remember you have to allow enough swing for all boats to clear each other if/when tides/wind shift.

One more thing, when calculating your 5:1, remember your bow pulpit and anchor attachment point is probably 5-6' out of the water, you have to count that as depth as well.

 

[Alex F]

There are area around me that you can anchor up and hand out on the beach.
Being a relative novice, would love some anchoring advice.

Have been positioning my bow into the wind or current. Then dropping anchor and backing up to engage.

1. How do you really tell if that anchor is engaged into the bottom. Sometime I see the rode taught, but wonder it is just the weight of the anchor doing it vs it being engaged into the bottom.

2. I see some people using a stern anchor in addition to the bow, and some people do not.
I assume this is to prevent your boat from drifting around the axis of the bow anchor. Sounds like a good plan, but are there any disadvantages or reasons not to use the stern anchor as well?

3. What is the best way to lay the stern anchor? Just drop it straight down? It's difficult to cast it out given it's weight.

4. Am I correct that you let out 5 feet per every foot of depth? I guess I need to mark off my chain and rode, as I am finding this difficult to estimate.

Sorry for all of the questions. Thanks in advance!

Great questions! I'll go one by one.

Before I start, what Tom said here is what people forget most of the time "One more thing, when calculating your 5:1, remember your bow pulpit and anchor attachment point is probably 5-6' out of the water, you have to count that as depth as well." This is very important!!!

In addition, remember to know the tide swing and the strength of the current (if any). High tide swing is a huge factor.

For example, if your depthfinder shows 7' you now add 5' (the distance between the water line and the bow pulpit), you have total of 12'. 5:1 means you'll need 60' for staying few hours during the day with mild wind. Since I “live” on the hook I’m using more conservative numbers 7:1 and 10:1 and I have all chain. This means that I would use between 85’ and 120’ of rode, depending on the weather, bottom condition, tide, etc.

As you can see besides knowing the scope you have to realize that picking the safe spot allowing you to have a lot of room to swing is very important.

So, let’s use the 5’ of depth and consider using 100’ of rode.

1. The process of setting: stop, start dropping the anchor, after dropping at least 40’-50’ slowly go in reverse just for a little to allow the rode to start straighten up in a form of a line. Stop, keep dropping another 25’ or so and back up some more. Lay out last 25’. Now the proper rode is out go slowly in reverse and you should feel the boat stop. Put the boat in reverse one more time and she should not move. This means your anchor is set well.

2. Stern anchors are great addition, but only in some situations. The main thing you’ll have to remember that they will not prevent drift, they will prevent your boat from swinging. This is a huge factor in crowded area where you need to swing along other boats to prevent collisions. Another thing to consider is use of your generator, especially the gas version. With CO from the exhaust you want to swing with the wind. Considering all above, the only times I use stern anchor is when I need to position and keep the boat into the wake. For example, we were anchored not far from a channel and the wind was positioning the boat parallel to the channel. This would have made a sleepless night. I turned the boat in to the channel and dropped the stern anchor. Problem solved.

Other time I would use the stern anchor is when rafting up. This helps prevent anchor lines crossing when you have multiple out. But I actually prefer for the raft to swing, so I don't use the stern anchor that often for the rafts as well. Separating crossed anchor lines is not a brain surgery.

3. Setting the stern anchor – Don’t just drop it down, it’ll do absolutely nothing. First, make sure you have a good rode, some chain on it will only help. If I recall mine is around 120’-150’. Tie the end to the stern cleat that makes most sense for the situation. Take the dinghy and ride the anchor out to desired location. Drop it when the rode ends. Go back to the boat and pull on the line to feel that the stern anchor has set. While pulling you’ll loose good 10’-15’ of line. This is why it’s good to have extra long rode. Re-tie the end to the clean and you’re done. Retrieving would be reversing the process.

4. Absolutely, mark the line to avoid any guessing games. I have mine marked every 25' for easier calculation. Use different colors to make it more readable. For example, since I have all chain I used white until 100' (1 stripe=25', 2 stripes = 50', 3 stripes = 75'). Then, I change to red (1 red str=100', 1red+1white=125'), etc. Use whatever schema makes most sense for you.

Hope this helps.

 

[Carbo]

All good points, I would add that it also depends on the conditions you boat in. At our LAKE, I routinely anchor in depths of 80 feet. Using the before mentioned guidelines is just not possible. I would need to put out hundreds of feet of rode, which I do not have. Luckily, I don't have tides to deal with and the conditions are typically calm with 10mph winds. I find that 3 times the depth work just fine for us. Ocean conditions are far more volatile requiring a much higher ratio of rode/depth.

 

[ZZ13]

I use a simpler approach than calculations and marking my line and such. I simply let out enough rode until my eyeball of the angle of the rode against the water is about what I think it should be. Close enough for me.

 

[Alex F]

All good points, I would add that it also depends on the conditions you boat in. At our LAKE, I routinely anchor in depths of 80 feet. Using the before mentioned guidelines is just not possible. I would need to put out hundreds of feet of rode, which I do not have. Luckily, I don't have tides to deal with and the conditions are typically calm with 10mph winds. I find that 3 times the depth work just fine for us. Ocean conditions are far more volatile requiring a much higher ratio of rode/depth.

I guess this one falls under category "it's not if, it's when". I understand your point regarding the depths, but you can't beat the math of physics. So, if you want to make sure your boat is 100% secured, there's no "short cuts", unless you stay on mooring ball. 3:1 ratio, 10mph wind......what do you think will happen if all of a sudden during the night the wind picks up from 10mph to 25kts with gust to 35kts? That's right, your anchor will not hold and you WILL drag. So, I can only hope that you'll recover without any damages.

I've been in different situations and the classic one that comes to mind is, we're anchored for two nights with 7:1 scope. I had no reason to question my anchor holding. A minor storm approached and wind picked up to 20kts. In addition the high tide of only 1.5'-2' came in. One good gust and I couldn't believe witnessing that my boat started dragging. This was in congested area. I was fortunate to be on board and was gained the control over the situation quickly. Imagine if I was on shore with the crew exploring the area?

The moral of the story, what worked yesterday doesn't mean it was the right approach and it might not work tomorrow. Regardless if your depths are 80', 150' or 300'you have to follow proper anchoring procedure. The only safe method for reduced scope I know is setting two anchors (Bahamian style).

 

[GrandMaster]

I set the stern anchor usually a little differently than Alex mentioned above, mosly because I dont have a dingy...

Set the bow anchor as you normally would. Then once its set where you want the boat to be, let out more rode and back up another 75-100' feet or so (depending on depth) and drop the stern anchor.

Then pull forward back to where you originally wanted the boat which should be enough to set the stern, and tie off the anchor lines...you never have to get off the boat that way.

Others will walk out the stern anchor if the depth allows.

 

[Alex F]

I set the stern anchor usually a little differently than Alex mentioned above, mosly because I dont have a dingy...

Set the bow anchor as you normally would. Then once its set where you want the boat to be, let out more rode and back up another 75-100' feet or so (depending on depth) and drop the stern anchor.

Then pull forward back to where you originally wanted the boat which should be enough to set the stern, and tie off the anchor lines...you never have to get off the boat that way..

Oh, absolutely. I would do the same if I didn't plan on dropping the dinghy. The same method (set main, let more scope, set the 2nd and comeback) would also be used for using 2nd bow anchor (Bahamian style). Since our dinghy in water 90% of the time it's the first thing that came to mind.

P.S.

Anchoring is usually different depending on location. I remember that our CSR friends on the FL west coast use stern anchors all the time to have the stern facing the beach. So, this is all depends on many variables.

 

[Carbo]

Alex, I would add that I set my anchor alarm on my C80 for a small movement. I leave it on all night with the backlight low. My setting allows for a move which is sufficient to swing yet not so large an area that I would hit an object. There are rarely any boats anchored near me unless we are rafting with friends and tied together. Not an ideal setup but the alarm gives us reassurance. I also set my shallow depth alarm as a secondary.

 

[Carbo]

Alex, I would add that I set the anchor alarm on my C80 for a small movement. I leave it on all night with the backlight low. My setting allows for a move which is sufficient to swing yet not so large an area that I would hit an object. There are rarely any boats anchored near me unless we are rafting with friends and tied together. Not an ideal setup but the alarm gives us reassurance. I also set my shallow depth alarm as a secondary.

 

[Alex F]

Alex, I would add that I set the anchor alarm on my C80 for a small movement. I leave it on all night with the backlight low. My setting allows for a move which is sufficient to swing yet not so large an area that I would hit an object. There are rarely any boats anchored near me unless we are rafting with friends and tied together. Not an ideal setup but the alarm gives us reassurance. I also set my shallow depth alarm as a secondary.

I understand, but I just want your crew to be safe out there that's why I'm making an argument. The problem I see with your approach is that you rely on some sort of an alarm to alert you when there's a problem. You're using anchor and depth alarms as your first line of defense. I would strongly suggest to change the strategy. In my situation those alarms are useless. I just can't hear them from the bridge and would need to use some app on my iphone (something like DragQueen). I personally rely on the alarms as my last resort, and quite often don't even set them up.

Imagine a scenario when you had a great day on water, maybe had few drinks and went to bed. You're tired and now in deep sleep. The alarm (one or both) go off and you didn't hear them, no one in your crew heard them. You can imagine the rest. Another scenario, you had an awesome party and had too much to drink. You're literaly drunk a went to bed hoping to wake without a huge hangover. The mirfy law kicks in and the alarm goes off. No ask yourself, does it worth the risk?

I think that getting 500'-1,000' (whatever you need to have proper scope) of line is much better approach. It's also much easier than messing with 2nd anchor.

Another suggestions if you want to get away with more aggressive ratio:
1. Get 2 sizes over anchor. For example, if you have 25lb-30lb, get 40lb-45lb one.
2. Add more chain. I assume you have standard setup with about 25' of chain and the rest is line (~100'-150'). I would get 100' of chain and maybe 500' of line.

Just remember that any alarm will not guaranty your safety, they can only "tell you" that you have a problem and now you have to be able to react fast before you get in trouble.

Just my $0.2 FWIW.

 

[FootballFan]

after anchor is set, let the boat stabilize in the drift for a few minutes.

On your chartplotter, zoom in as far as you can ( I think on my C80 its 1/32 of a mile).
Set heads up display to be North
Turn on Tracks


At any point during the evening you start to see a very nice half moon developing in the tracks as you swing back and forth. If you get any movement will be immediately noticable.

I still establish my visual cues against landmarks for reference, but have found the chart plotter trick very useful.

 

[moparlvr4406]

ok ...stupid question
the lake I boat in is rather busy on the weekends
If anchoring in say...30 feet of water should one put some sort of bouy or warning float on the rode
to prevent someone running over it ?? most times I am anchored in more secluded areas in 8-10' of water when overnighting.

 

[Alex F]

Marking the anchor line with a buoy is a good idea. Some people in our area do it and I've done it on occasion. It can only help, providing that most boaters will understand which side is safe to pass. :grin:

 

[moparlvr4406]

Marking the anchor line with a buoy is a good idea. Some people in our area do it and I've done it on occasion. It can only help, providing that most boaters will understand which side is safe to pass. :grin:

The large man with a shotgun on the bow should serve to clarify on which side of the bouy to pass... :wink:

 

[DDD]

Wow!
Glad I cold start up such great discussion leading to lots of info.
Thank you all!

Question....
What is "Bahamian style" anchoring?

 

[flyguyzz1]

4. Absolutely, mark the line to avoid any guessing games. I have mine marked every 25' for easier calculation. Use different colors to make it more readable. For example, since I have all chain I used white until 100' (1 stripe=25', 2 stripes = 50', 3 stripes = 75'). Then, I change to red (1 red str=100', 1red+1white=125'), etc. Use whatever schema makes most sense for you.

Hope this helps.

What did you mark the chain with?

 

[JVM225]

The spots that we anchor in around here are very crowded and letting out a lot of scope is just not possible. This is one instance where the very shallow depths are a good thing. It's common to be anchored in less than 10' of water. Sometimes less than 5'. If it were any deeper around here we would be in big trouble.
I don't have my anchor line marked, but I'm pretty good at eyeballing it. The angle of the anchor line tells me what I need to know.

 

[Budman]

Great thread.

Having been awakened by the sound and feel of our boat bumping on the (thankfully sandy) bottom a couple weeks ago due to anchor dragging, I want to learn as much about anchoring as I can.

 

[Alex F]

Question....
What is "Bahamian style" anchoring?

Correction on the point I was trying to make earlier. I made the same mistake most people do and called the 45deg the "Bahamian style". These are two different things. So, here's the 45deg and this is what I was recommending.







If you google "Bahamian Moor" you'll get number of good links. In short, it's used in places with strong current, which (as we know) shifts with every tide change. The "Bahamian Moor" allows you to minimize the 180deg swing every 6hrs.

P.S. I see that the forum software is messing up the attachments by putting 3rd step images in different area all together. The bottom left #3 is the final pic of 45deg moor. The bottom right #3 is the final pic for "Bahamian Moor".