Anchor Rode Control?

Skybolt

Well-Known Member
Nov 11, 2014
6,479
Kent Narrows, MD
Boat Info
Reel Nauti
460 EC
Engines
Detroit 6v92TA
(Low profile's)
Alison Gears
Westerbeke
12.5kw Genset
I am considering adding an anchor rode counter/control since there are very few mooring balls if any at all in the Chesapeake and we are always on anchor.

https://autoanchor.co.nz/wpcproduct/autoanchor-560/

Not knowing how much chain is out is always a guess, I can almost never tell the angle as I have all chain and it pretty much drops straight and stays that way except when setting. Which always gives me nightmares of the boat beaching itself or worse while sleeping on anchor, yes I have issues ...

Anyway just curious if anyone has retrofitted/added there windlass with something like this or something else?
 
It is easier to dye the rode or paint the chain at intervals of your choosing.

s-l500.jpg
 
It is easier to dye the rode or paint the chain at intervals of your choosing.

Thats a pretty cool idea. A bit of a PITA to get the chain on land to paint though. Still cool idea.
 
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It's not engineering precise.....I timed how quick my anchor lowers. It's about 2 ft per second. 35 Mississippi's of the down button and I have 70 ft of rode out. The coloring this is a mess, and sometime difficult to see.
 
This is the one I installed. Fairly easy to install and works fine. I tried the whole marker / painting route but found it difficult to see from the helm. A chain counter removes all guesswork.

Thats too funny, I only today got an answer to my email regarding the CAN bus support of that unit, too bad it's not NMEA2000. But, to your point, I would think it is tough to see, I can only see a very small section of chain when deploying.

There doesn't seem to be a lot of options out there supporting rode counting and N2K support. Which is funny, since there is rode counter support in a lot of MFD's, some have pop-up windows like the trim tab support. I haven't yet found an option that supports NMEA2000 though (under $1000). Most of what I am finding is for large yacht's and very costly for dropping an anchor.
 
It's not engineering precise.....I timed how quick my anchor lowers. It's about 2 ft per second. 35 Mississippi's of the down button and I have 70 ft of rode out. The coloring this is a mess, and sometime difficult to see.

That's how I work things now, I count the seconds. And when someone is talking to me I loose count ...
 
I used to do the Mississippi thing....then about 3 years ago, I measured my rode with string and painted at 50 ft, 75 ft, 100 ft. It quickly became apparent that I wasn't putting out enough scope as I had thought. I painted the chain with the Sharpie Paint Pens. A bit tedious, but no overspray. I deploy the anchor from the bow while the Admiral "womans" the helm.

Jaybeaux
 
Thats too funny, I only today got an answer to my email regarding the CAN bus support of that unit, too bad it's not NMEA2000. But, to your point, I would think it is tough to see, I can only see a very small section of chain when deploying.

There doesn't seem to be a lot of options out there supporting rode counting and N2K support. Which is funny, since there is rode counter support in a lot of MFD's, some have pop-up windows like the trim tab support. I haven't yet found an option that supports NMEA2000 though (under $1000). Most of what I am finding is for large yacht's and very costly for dropping an anchor.

Yeah. I've been looking for a NMEA 2000 solution as well. Maxwell announced one a year or two ago but I think it turned out to be vapor-ware. I asked them about it and they said it was "no longer available" (as if it ever was), but to stay tuned for an announcement next year.
 
We spray 2 feet of chain every 25 feet. It last 2 years. We spray the chain red 3 feet at the anchor and 3 feet before end of chain
 
We have rubber inserts that go into the links. Inserted 5 red ones at 25 feet, 5 yellow at 50 feet and green at 75 feet. Works very nice. When one popped out one day, I decided to heat the links they were in up with a torch to make them glue in so to speak and no issues since.
 
Yeah. I've been looking for a NMEA 2000 solution as well. Maxwell announced one a year or two ago but I think it turned out to be vapor-ware. I asked them about it and they said it was "no longer available" (as if it ever was), but to stay tuned for an announcement next year.

I also spoke with them and I think your right, they said possibly this spring but no details as yet. I would think if it was coming out this spring there would be details or a brochure already.

The paint thing sounds like a cool idea, but has to be kept up with, and all the chain pulled out to paint again. A lot of work with little give back, doesn't it start to flake off and get everywhere? The rubber chain plugs seem like a good idea as well, but like with the paint you pretty much need to be on the bow to see it right or have someone keeping an eye on it to know where your at. Not always possible when in tight places.

My windlass is a Maxwell, so I think I am going to go with the 560 if nothing else shows up.
Thanks for all of the replies.
 
I also spoke with them and I think your right, they said possibly this spring but no details as yet. I would think if it was coming out this spring there would be details or a brochure already.

The paint thing sounds like a cool idea, but has to be kept up with, and all the chain pulled out to paint again. A lot of work with little give back, doesn't it start to flake off and get everywhere? The rubber chain plugs seem like a good idea as well, but like with the paint you pretty much need to be on the bow to see it right or have someone keeping an eye on it to know where your at. Not always possible when in tight places.

My windlass is a Maxwell, so I think I am going to go with the 560 if nothing else shows up.
Thanks for all of the replies.
We use white enamel high gloss for the 25 foot and red high gloss for the ends both in spray cans. It does not flake but over 2 years it thins. I have laid the chain on a dock with cardboard under looped so all 25 foot sections are on the same cardboard the spray it all at once. You need to turn the chain so all sides get covered. Or you can spray it as you let it out one section at a time. To do this I put cardboard on the deck between the windless and the the anchor roller and spray then let dry, takes about an hour. Then let out the next 25 feet and repeat. Nice pastime in an anchorage on a hot day while drinking your favorite adult beverage.
 
For my 200’ of chain, I bought three cans of Rustoleum at Home Depot. Red, Blue, Yellow. Sprayed about a 2’ section every 30 feet. Red, Blue, Yellow, Red, Blue, Yellow.
Holds up pretty well for about 3 seasons before needing a touch up.
Having a side tie dock makes laying it out and touching up fairly easy.
 
I rattle canned mine with fluorescent paint at 50', 75' and 100' 5-6 years ago while on the hard. It honestly has held up fine in the Chesapeake Bay mud being used a few times a month.
 
... It honestly has held up fine in the Chesapeake Bay mud being used a few times a month.

I am in the same area, I believe in the same marina as you. SH Kent Narrows, the old Mears. Anyway, yes all sand/mud and a bit longer rode needs to be out in that soft sand. Hard to keep track of without a marker of sorts.

Through all of this thought on this subject it has made me think if I have the right anchor as well. Currently I have a danforth ~50lbs. but am thinking I should switch to a plow or the like. From what I have read, danforths tend to skip when pulled and plows tend to grab again if they are pulled. I use to boat in the LI Sound where the bottom is rock with some sand/gravel and moorings are every where. Here in the Chesapeake it's all sand/mud and anchors are used in lue of moorings. So I am now paying attention to what I never gave a second thought about.
 
I got bad reviews from my yard about the auto counters. They don't last, and I am in fresh water. Do your homework. M
 
I am in the same area, I believe in the same marina as you. SH Kent Narrows, the old Mears. Anyway, yes all sand/mud and a bit longer rode needs to be out in that soft sand. Hard to keep track of without a marker of sorts.

Through all of this thought on this subject it has made me think if I have the right anchor as well. Currently I have a danforth ~50lbs. but am thinking I should switch to a plow or the like. From what I have read, danforths tend to skip when pulled and plows tend to grab again if they are pulled. I use to boat in the LI Sound where the bottom is rock with some sand/gravel and moorings are every where. Here in the Chesapeake it's all sand/mud and anchors are used in lue of moorings. So I am now paying attention to what I never gave a second thought about.

We're up off of the C&D Canal but still the same anchoring bottom. I think you're onto something with the Danforth vs plow. My plow always sets and holds 8-10 boats during afternoon raftups but my buddy's Danforth has a terrible time holding his 46' boat alone sometimes. Needless to say, he's changing his anchor this spring.
 
We're up off of the C&D Canal but still the same anchoring bottom. I think you're onto something with the Danforth vs plow. My plow always sets and holds 8-10 boats during afternoon raftups but my buddy's Danforth has a terrible time holding his 46' boat alone sometimes. Needless to say, he's changing his anchor this spring.

Well that supports all that I have read, I guess a new plow is in my future as well. I have the same issue as your buddy. Glad I posted this. Thanks.

EDIT: Funny, I took your avitar name as the boat name, we have a Quality Time in our marina I go by when leaving the marina. I see your boat name is "Miss Stress", got to love our play of words with our boat names.
 
I am in the same area, I believe in the same marina as you. SH Kent Narrows, the old Mears. Anyway, yes all sand/mud and a bit longer rode needs to be out in that soft sand. Hard to keep track of without a marker of sorts.

Through all of this thought on this subject it has made me think if I have the right anchor as well. Currently I have a danforth ~50lbs. but am thinking I should switch to a plow or the like. From what I have read, danforths tend to skip when pulled and plows tend to grab again if they are pulled. I use to boat in the LI Sound where the bottom is rock with some sand/gravel and moorings are every where. Here in the Chesapeake it's all sand/mud and anchors are used in lue of moorings. So I am now paying attention to what I never gave a second thought about.

Somehow I thought the opposite was the case re: anchors in mud? I thought that the typical plow anchor like a Lewmar Delta tending to hold poorly in mud. I know lots of folks that don't trust a plow-type anchor even on the LI sound area. I've had trouble setting a Lewmar Delta in mixed sand/mud conditions.
 

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