Anchor chain experts? BBB vs Gr30?

[Presentation]

The local farm supply store bulk stocks ¼” Gr30 chain at a price of $1.30/foot and they will cut to length.

The online anchor supply stores state "Gr30 BBB."

My question is, does the BBB mean it’s hot dipped galvanized / more corrosive resistant and if so, does Gr30 mean it’s not good enough for my fresh water only environment?

We boat in only fresh water and I hope the Gr30 chain that I can go pick up (no shipping cost, no waiting) for $1.30/foot is the correct chain for our boating location, fresh water, but I’m hoping we have at least one chain expert amongst us to confirm.

All things being equal I would prefer to buy locally. I have purchased many other items from Fleet Farm, like hardware that they also sell by weight out of bulk bins at incredible prices and it’s been good stuff.

I have had a history of getting ripped off buying online. For example, one online store said it was selling me a genuine Westerbeke impeller but when the box arrived on the front porch it was actually a cheap Jacobson impeller, same size, but lower generic quality. They subbed it out.

I’m fearful that if I go to a online store like River Marine Supply that is saying “Gr30 BBB” that when the box shoes up it will be exactly the same chain that I could have picked up locally for less money and no shipping expense. I have no history of dealing with River Marine, just that the other store that did the impeller swap was also in Miami so I guess that has me concerned.

So, my question to any chain experts, is Gr30 good enough at corrosion protection in fresh water applications for my anchor chain?

 

[Presentation]

I did call and ask. The Gr30 or Grade 30 chain at Fleet farm is zinc glavanived, not hot dipped galvanized.

Do I need hot dipped galvanized chain in fresh water?

What type of chain do they put on those anchor kits? I looked and the hooker brand kits just says "Galvanized chain" they do not say zinc galvanized or hot dipped galvanized.

 

[Gofirstclass]

I did call and ask. The Gr30 or Grade 30 chain at Fleet farm is zinc glavanived, not hot dipped galvanized.

Do I need hot dipped galvanized chain in fresh water?

What type of chain do they put on those anchor kits? I looked and the hooker brand kits just says "Galvanized chain" they do not say zinc galvanized or hot dipped galvanized.

You didn't say how much the BBB chain cost per foot. If it's not too much higher, even with the shipping costs, I'd do that. I don't want to be faced with problems caused by a rusty chain.

 

[Sundancer]

Make sure it will fit through your windlass if you have one! I just used some galvanized chain from Lowe's. I don't have a windlass and I added 30 feet for about $40 or so. It's so cheap, who cares? I've used it in saltwater and it looks just fine three years later! Mine was the BBB stuff as I recall because it doesn't look like it was dipped. I did get a slightly larger than recommended, so it's a little heavy to lift, but the pay off is piece of mind on the hook!

 

[Lazy Daze]

Most windlasses only work (or at least work best) with HT chain. BBB is grade 30, HT is grade 43 (it's significantly stronger). The normal chain you'll buy at a home or hardware store has links that are too long (along with being weaker). HT chain has shorter links.

I can't say for sure with your model, but the best bet is to verify the specs for your model. As far as I know, HT is always a good.

 

[Presentation]

Thank you both!!!

I just got off the phone with the USA rep for Lofrans, my brand of windlass.

Per Imtra Corporation, the chain must be Acco brand G43 ¼” chain and no other chain will work as good thru my gipsy.

 

[Henry Boyd]

I did call and ask. The Gr30 or Grade 30 chain at Fleet farm is zinc glavanived, not hot dipped galvanized.

Do I need hot dipped galvanized chain in fresh water?

What type of chain do they put on those anchor kits? I looked and the hooker brand kits just says "Galvanized chain" they do not say zinc galvanized or hot dipped galvanized.

Doug,

All galvanizing is supposed to be zinc. The difference is that hot dipped galvanized is as the name suggests when the item is actually dunked in a bath of molten zinc. The other form of galvanizing is via electroplating.

Galvanizing works just like 'zincs' do on a boat. The zinc coating oxidizes before the steel can. So the thicker the coating of zinc, the longer the chain will stay protected. Better said, the thicker the coating of zinc the longer it will take for rust to become visible.

It used to be that hot dipped generally provided a thicker coating. However these days who knows. Its doubtful that you have to worry about the effect of corrosion on the anchor chain in a recreational setting (salt, or fresh water). It would be a different story on a full time application. I get about two years out of the 3/8" and 1/2" on our mooring, but that's because its in the water 24x7x52.

Long story short, the better the galvanizing the longer the chain will stay looking good cosmetically.

Did you check to see if the Lofrans Marlin takes BBB chain? I thought our windlass took the G43 spec 1/4" chain. I'm speaking from memory as I thought about changing over a couple years ago (when the chain was only $4/ ft).

Henry

You were gabbing on the phone while I was typing!

 

[Presentation]

Well screw this.
I’m looking at over $500 (almost $700) for a freaking chain now.

I am sorry for taking everyone’s time.

For that kind of money I’ll walk out on the bow and push on that stupid windlass finger when I need to.

Yes, I did already replace the finger and spring, it made no difference. The chain portion, the 30 feet I have in chain, works perfect. It’s the rope portion that causes all the trouble.

My apologies, I’ve become frustrated. I think I’ll take a break from this and come back to this at a later time.

I may just go back to replacing the rope for $50 and plan on doing that ever 3 or 4 years.

 

[Lazy Daze]

Take a look into 8-plait rope. I *think* it can work with windlasses. It's a step up over 3 strand. If you stay with 3-strand, you could get the "premium" version - typically, these have a colored tracer in them to ID them. It falls better, over time, than regular 3-strand - stays workable, longer. Works better through windlasses, too (as compared to regular 3-strand).

Doug, do you ever clean the 3-strand? That can help make it last longer. Although, this is more important if one is n salt, which you are not.

 

[Henry Boyd]

Dennis,

How do you splice the 8 plait stuff? You're not talking about the new super high strength stuff that is being used to replace steel cable on sailboat halyards are ?

Henry

 

[Lazy Daze]

Dennis,

How do you splice the 8 plait stuff? You're not talking about the new super high strength stuff that is being used to replace steel cable on sailboat halyards are ?

Henry

I've spliced 3-strand for years - but I'm scared of 8-plait!:smt001 I've only seen mention of it being done, but have never looked into it further. I thought it could, but maybe it can't?

No, not talking about anything super-high strength.

 

[Lazy Daze]

Here's a link: www.bethandevans.com/pdf/brait_to_chain_splice.pdf

It doesn't look too bad... but I'll stick with 3-strand. The only thing I would wonder is if it gets too big to pass through a windlass.