Aft table for 310DA

Sprint7TW

Member
Nov 30, 2011
486
Indiana
Boat Info
1998 310DA / Vintage 1976 StarCraft Montego.
Engines
5.7 Mercruiser 260HP v drives
My 1998 310DA did not come with the aft deck table.
I plan to build one this winter.
Can someone with the same boat 1998-2002) please send me pictures and table size.
I would also welcome suggestions if you have the table and would change anything with regard to shape mounting or material.
I am guessing that the table mounts to the main engine hatch with a flush mount?
Thanks in advance for your reply.
Bob
 
I made mine to replace the small round fiberglass one.
Nehalenniacockpittable.jpg

IslandTripAug2-909186.jpg

IslandTripAug2-90926.jpg


Last January I started a company to make these, aft grill side tables and some custom stainless engine vents.
Let me know if you're interested.
 
My 1998 310DA did not come with the aft deck table.
I plan to build one this winter.
Can someone with the same boat 1998-2002) please send me pictures and table size.
I would also welcome suggestions if you have the table and would change anything with regard to shape mounting or material.
I am guessing that the table mounts to the main engine hatch with a flush mount?
Thanks in advance for your reply.
Bob

I have the original aft table that I would sell if you want it. I have a new teak table I replaced it with.will even through in the filler cushions. PM me if you want it. I also have the 98 310 so a perfect fit for you.
 
Somebody e-mailed me with information that they had made a table and listed the size which was 44" X something.
You even offered to send pictures.
I apologize that I open your e-mail by my cell phone and did not respond by phone.
Your e-mail somehow got deleted and taken off or my server. Please resend.
Thanks,
Bob
 
Wasn't me, but here is another approach........I've posted the construction details on t his table before. If you can find them by searching the site, PM me and I'll send you a copy:


teaktable.jpg
 

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Frank, that base is perfect for the space you have.

They say the devil is in the details.........The base had to be weighted, so I melted down old zinc anodes I've saved for that purpose. Ever try to pour molten lead into a wooden block without setting the whole shebang on fire?.....Right. One more reason why there is only one of those teak tables.
 
I haven't tried that, but I wonder what wetting the wood before would do if anything other than potential damage?
 
That is what I ended up doing......... after I put the fire out and routed hole deeper. Then I had to wait several days for the base to dry out before coating it with epoxy.
 
I've built a couple of tables for newer 320s. I think the 300 series all used the same table. It is about 17.25" x 31" x 1.5". I have the exact dimensions in my notes. If yours appears to be that size let me know and I'll get the exact numbers. I've also done a couple designs of larger tops for the 320 that provide a little more room.

Henry


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 
I'll have to remember that. I've had a few requests for cockpit tables and your solution for the base will work well for those with larger boats. Thanks for the idea. Can I steal it?
 
I've built a couple of tables for newer 320s. I think the 300 series all used the same table. It is about 17.25" x 31" x 1.5". I have the exact dimensions in my notes. If yours appears to be that size let me know and I'll get the exact numbers. I've also done a couple designs of larger tops for the 320 that provide a little more room.

Henry


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Henry,
I think that it would be 31" or more but, I really have never been close enought to check it. I really have only seen them in pictures. I am the only 300 series on my dock so I have nothing to compare.
 
I knew Henry would "Chime In" he's an Artist!!!! Not that you aren't Todd!!!

Henry definitely knows his stuff and does great work. So does FrankW for sure. I appreciate the honorable mention.
 
My 1998 310DA did not come with the aft deck table.
I plan to build one this winter.
Can someone with the same boat 1998-2002) please send me pictures and table size.
I would also welcome suggestions if you have the table and would change anything with regard to shape mounting or material.
I am guessing that the table mounts to the main engine hatch with a flush mount?
Thanks in advance for your reply.

I wasn't very happy with the tiny plastic table that was mounted on a cantilevered springboard post on my 2000 260DA, so I ordered a new pedestal and mounts from Garelick and worked up a few prototype table tops using scrap wood. The dimensions I came up with are about 20 x 36 and the shape is somewhat elliptical but not quite. I moved the table mount so that the table top is now centered on the support pedestal, I filled the old hole in with what came out of the new one (new flooring will cover that), and now I'm working on the final table. I chose sapele for the wood, and bought enough to make a couple of extra little projects (a woodworker never has too much wood laying around). No pics yet but when I'm done I'll post.

Since you currently having nothing there, I would experiment with shapes and sizes until you come up with something that works for you and the way you live on the boat, then design something that fits that mold.
 
Henry,
I think that it would be 31" or more but, I really have never been close enought to check it. I really have only seen them in pictures. I am the only 300 series on my dock so I have nothing to compare.

On the 320 the table also acts as the support for the cushion to convert the booth style seating to a sunpad/ sleeping spot, hence the specific dimensions. I found a number of folks who have the OEM sized table and find it too small for more than two people to have a meal at one time. If you don't have to go with that restriction, I'd also follow the plan of building a basic top out of plywood, maybe a little larger than you think will work and using it as a prototype you can trim down.

Henry
 
Why not figure out the weight and size/shape you want to add to the base and pour it in a separate mold rather than fighting fires on the good wood base. Then epoxy it in the routed out cavity.
 

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