Adding trl brakes

[Tail Chaser 661]

Whats involved in adding trl bakes to a axle that has none?
I have brakes on two axles of my three axle trl. But still need more braking.
Looking at the system, I believe I need to change out axles, or have the spindles cutoff and replaced?
Another option is adding a elec brake controller. Then dial in some added trl braking to the existing surge drum brakes.
Dont really want to fool with switching to disk brakes. Ive heard they can get hot enough to damage grease seals.
Besides, Ive already put enough money into this hobby.

 

[berth control]

Besides, Ive already put enough money into this hobby.

:lol: Tail, at the rate and level of perfectionism that you are fixing up your rig..........your wallet is gonna need :smt100

About the brakes, the spindles can stay, what matters is if you have the square bracket behind the axle that the brakes attach to. If so, your good to go, just buy them and bolt them on.

Maybe I am too much of an "if it ain't broke" kind of guy, and I know you really aren't, but I don't think a third brake would help that much and would not be worth it. My trailer has two 6,500 lb. axles and only has brakes on one of them and I'm happy with it. Maybe first you should take the trailer to a local guy and have the brakes adjusted. I have had that done a few times and it made a big difference. Pretty reasonable too, maybe a hundred bucks where I go.

 

[Tail Chaser 661]

Thanks berth control,
My center third axle does not have the square flange.
Seemed to cheap but ive seen axles for like 125.00
My center axle is welded on to the frame. Another expensive headache i'll pass on.
I just replaced the wheel cylinders again, Had bought that Tie Down junk and adjusted the brakes this season.
Tow vehicles brakes are a lot of the culprit. Rear Drums suck. I need to adjust them. Not enough rear braking, Then overheats fronts causing brake fade. Need some slotted front disks and keep rears adjusted. Looks like the elec in cab controller is the way to go. Add 20%/40% extra trl braking, Good to go. Dont want to spend a dime after buying the repower. Nobody stocking any parts I need is another slap in the face. 5 yrs of... Sorry No have. Has gotten really old. Sure screws up any sort of a game plan to get things done.

 

[berth control]

I could see how the truck brakes would be a problem, my back and front brakes are both disc and they are about the same size...the back always wear out first. I am on my third set of pads now and each time it's crazy that the backs go first, but if you do a lot of pulling I guess it makes sense. Also, my trailer brakes are electric, I can adjust/control them a little better than surge, so that may help too. Either way, just slow down sooner! :lol:

 

[Tail Chaser 661]

Interesting your rears are wearing more. Usually fronts go first. My 97 Ram has a small rod on the rear axle that ties into the frame. Compress the rear of the truck and it somehow effects the brake proportional valve. (More rear braking) When I was on the Turbo Diesel Registry Some members shortened the rod to get more rear braking. Installing 1 ton Chevy wheel cylinders give so much rear braking. The back end locks up too easy.
The elec brakes must work really good if you can stop your 27' easy with brakes only on one axle. Sounds crazy :wow:
Glad I have the power to stay way in front of you :lol: jk:smt043
Your brakes are 100% elec? Not electric over hydraulic? No saltwater issues so far?

 

[Spot]

You could adjust your drums up and you will have more breaking (sooner breaking) on the 2 that you do have. As normal adjust them tight and the norm is back off 10 clicks. You can play with what works best, when I had drum i ran them 7 off, which rubbed some when you spin the wheel but everything finds a nice groove.

Drum breaks are cheap and you can buy several sets of drums with the cost of a new axle or upgrade

Breaking was awesome.

The fix was not on my 260 Da It was on me 22' Jet boat.

 

[keokie]

My 260 had surge discs on 2 axles and stopped very well. The trailer originally came with non-vented discs. They got too hot. I switched to vented stainless rotors and they did very well even on long steep hills in 110+ degree weather.

I have straight electric as on all 3 axles of my 310. It also stops very well. I replaced them last spring (at 6 years old). They had alot of miles and occasional saltwater exposure. They were worn, but looked and worked great otherwise. The maufacturer made absolutely no attempt to seal or waterproof anything. I was surprised when I opened them up. Even though they were working, I expected rusted messes. They really weren't bad at all.

 

[berth control]

Glad I have the power to stay way in front of you :lol: jk:smt043
Your brakes are 100% elec? Not electric over hydraulic? No saltwater issues so far?

I am sure you do have the power to stay ahead - my duramax is running a little slow lately, some kind of fuel issue :smt089 It goes in on Tuesday though, so not for long!

My brakes are all electric, 100%. I can't speak of the corrosion on them yet, haven't had them long enough, but my job is spreading fertilizer on lawns and those trailers get way more corrosion than any boat trailer will, and the brake problems on them are avoidable if you seal up the connections well. The rest of the trailer though, they just rot away to nothing in a couple years. My newest enclosed trailer had holes through the aluminum sides in two years :smt089 But the brakes still worked:smt038

 

[Tail Chaser 661]

Thanks guys :thumbsup:
Dont think ive seen slotted rotors for trls before.
That would cure my braking wows.
Need to check the price difference between Hyd and elec.
I cater to the electric.
Spot
I do adjust the drums to where they just scrape the rust a bit. About 20% more braking and I would be content.
Tow Vehicle could use about 30% more braking. Thats probably causing the main issue.

 

[Tail Chaser 661]

I am sure you do have the power to stay ahead - my duramax is running a little slow lately, some kind of fuel issue :smt089 It goes in on Tuesday though, so not for long!

My brakes are all electric, 100%. I can't speak of the corrosion on them yet, haven't had them long enough, but my job is spreading fertilizer on lawns and those trailers get way more corrosion than any boat trailer will, and the brake problems on them are avoidable if you seal up the connections well. The rest of the trailer though, they just rot away to nothing in a couple years. My newest enclosed trailer had holes through the aluminum sides in two years :smt089 But the brakes still worked:smt038

Very cool :thumbsup: Elec for sure is the way to go. I believe trl shops push the Elec over hyd.
Holes in the Alum trl in two yrs. OUCH! no wonder your not installing 4.3's :lol: Any thought of going Alum on the boat trl i'll pass on now. I was more worried about long term structural fatigue on the alum

 

[berth control]

Sorry, I should have been more clear. My work trailers are rotting away, the boat trailer looks like new. What I meant to say is that if the electric brakes hold up in the fertilizer/chemical environment than they will be fine on a boat, even in salt water.

 

[douglee25]

They make add on drum brake kits. See here - http://www.championtrailers.com/DRUM%20BRAKE%20KITS.htm

I personally have never heard of disc brakes overheating the hub seals. I have used disc brakes for years on trailers and have been very satisfied compared to their drum counterparts. Disc brakes have greater stopping power, require no adjusting (ever), plus pad changes take only minutes.

Doug

 

[Tail Chaser 661]

Sorry, I should have been more clear. My work trailers are rotting away, the boat trailer looks like new. What I meant to say is that if the electric brakes hold up in the fertilizer/chemical environment than they will be fine on a boat, even in salt water.

berth control
I knew you were talking about a alum work trl.
I already had concerns of alum fatigue over time. Then fertilizer eating holes in your alum work trl makes me never want to consider a alum boat trl for weight savings in the future. Ive got a 1989 Mtn bike i put like 50K miles on. every piece of alum broke. spoke nipples,sprocket bolts, etc. Rims and handlebars have held up.
douglee25
A fishing/boating forum was where I read about the disk getting hot. Basically check the grease seals yearly.
Local trl shop said with surge disk brakes. Make sure you take off fast enough, or a little jerk to make sure the actuator completely releases the brakes. No concern there, Getting a heavy boat/trl rolling.