Adding a 2nd bilge pump - 220 SD

[surfinjoe]

Has anyone ever added or considered adding a second bilge pump to their bow rider. I have thought about this a lot and am thinking about the following:

Adding a high volume pump to the factory switch (or a second switch) and routing the water through the blower intake tube (as a secondary system only in case of emergency). I am also considering hooking the intake side of this pump to the deck drain tubes. That way the water will not have to enter the bilge prior to being pumped out of the boat. Is there a pump that can detect when water enters the intake tube (as opposed to a float switch)?

Any thoughts?

 

[Four Suns]

I re-did the bilge pump setup on my bow-rider (sold it this year though). It was a Sea Doo Challenger 2000 and the OEM pump was pretty wimpy. That boat had enough room for 10 pumps in the engine room so I'm not sure why they only had one. The one down in the sump area had enough room to put in a Rule 2000 and then I mounted a float and pump on some starboard and put it across the stringers as a high-water pump. I routed it to a new through hull and got a fitting from Jamestown Distributors that matched the one on the other side. I used to get a lot of water in that boat when the bow would dig under from slamming the jet gate in reverse while moving forward at 50 mph....

My wife is happy the boat is gone.

Sky diving anyone?

 

[boatmailster]

Has anyone ever added or considered adding a second bilge pump to their bow rider. I have thought about this a lot and am thinking about the following:

Adding a high volume pump to the factory switch (or a second switch) and routing the water through the blower intake tube (as a secondary system only in case of emergency). I am also considering hooking the intake side of this pump to the deck drain tubes. That way the water will not have to enter the bilge prior to being pumped out of the boat. Is there a pump that can detect when water enters the intake tube (as opposed to a float switch)?

Any thoughts?

using blower intake? hmm it will take few minutes to fill that hose - it is 3" or 4" in diameter. Better run separate discharge hose with dedicated thru-hull fitting.
As for deck drains - you could reroute hoses and connect them together and "T" them to existing bilge pump discharge fitting. And there are water sensors (boston whaler used to use them), but sometimes they can turn on bilge pump because there of high humidity (boston whaler used them only for one season!)

 

[surfinjoe]

I meant to run the discharge hose through the blower intake. I like the Idea of a through-hull fitting. I will also look into a pump with a water sensor.

Thanks!

using blower intake? hmm it will take few minutes to fill that hose - it is 3" or 4" in diameter. Better run separate discharge hose with dedicated thru-hull fitting.
As for deck drains - you could reroute hoses and connect them together and "T" them to existing bilge pump discharge fitting. And there are water sensors (boston whaler used to use them), but sometimes they can turn on bilge pump because there of high humidity (boston whaler used them only for one season!)

 

[surfinjoe]

I will take a look into that Gary. Thanks for the info. Glad to see you are back!

I re-did the bilge pump setup on my bow-rider (sold it this year though). It was a Sea Doo Challenger 2000 and the OEM pump was pretty wimpy. That boat had enough room for 10 pumps in the engine room so I'm not sure why they only had one. The one down in the sump area had enough room to put in a Rule 2000 and then I mounted a float and pump on some starboard and put it across the stringers as a high-water pump. I routed it to a new through hull and got a fitting from Jamestown Distributors that matched the one on the other side. I used to get a lot of water in that boat when the bow would dig under from slamming the jet gate in reverse while moving forward at 50 mph....

My wife is happy the boat is gone.

Sky diving anyone?

 

[Sorrento 25]

I am also considering hooking the intake side of this pump to the deck drain tubes. That way the water will not have to enter the bilge prior to being pumped out of the boat. Is there a pump that can detect when water enters the intake tube (as opposed to a float switch)?

Any thoughts?

You could use a shower sump for this purpose.

 

[surfinjoe]

Good idea. I was also considering re-routing the deck drain hoses to a through-hull fitting. This would eliminate the need for a pump. Any ideas/thoughts on this? It sounds soo easy....why didn't SeaRay make it like this from the factory?

You could use a shower sump for this purpose.

 

[Sorrento 25]

If you can drill holes in your hull that sounds like the best option to me! I was confused at first as to how your deck water was draining into your bilge. If drain tubes exist it seems they should be connected to drain fittings.

 

[surfinjoe]

The more I think about it, the more stupid it seems. Why would you drain the deck into the bildge when for another few $$$$ you could drain it to the sea. What were they thinking....anyone have any reasons why NOT to do this?

If you can drill holes in your hull that sounds like the best option to me! I was confused at first as to how your deck water was draining into your bilge. If drain tubes exist it seems they should be connected to drain fittings.

 

[unlvrebel]

The more I think about it, the more stupid it seems. Why would you drain the deck into the bildge when for another few $$$$ you could drain it to the sea. What were they thinking....anyone have any reasons why NOT to do this?

I think because the level of your deck is REALLY close to the water line on the outside of the boat. You could, and would, conceivable have water back-flowing through the tube to the deck and back out again... If that were the case why not get a fishing boat that is designed this way? :huh:

 

[surfinjoe]

I understand your point and am not trying to argue however a one-way check valve would prevent water from entering into the boat. The through-hull Corsa Exhaust is also located at the water line.

I am not interested in a fishing boat because I don't fish much. What I am trying to accomplish is set-up my boat so that there is less chance of swamping my boat. A self-bailing design is by far the best. Second prize goes to having multiple high-volume bilge pumps. Third prize goes to the current bilge/pump set-up as provided by Sea Ray.

I think because the level of your deck is REALLY close to the water line on the outside of the boat. You could, and would, conceivable have water back-flowing through the tube to the deck and back out again... If that were the case why not get a fishing boat that is designed this way? :huh:

 

[chuck1]

I'm surprised your 220 is not self-bailing? My 2006 240SD is self-bailing. How many through hull fittings do you have at the back of your boat?

 

[boatmailster]

The more I think about it, the more stupid it seems. Why would you drain the deck into the bildge when for another few $$$$ you could drain it to the sea. What were they thinking....anyone have any reasons why NOT to do this?

[few $ in parts + additional labor] x many boats = less profit for SR plus possibility of carbon monoxide entering to boat via drain hoses right to cockpit - could be not to healthy when full cockpit canvas is on - I bet you theirs lawyers though about this.

 

[Four Suns]

[few $ in parts + additional labor] x many boats = less profit for SR plus possibility of carbon monoxide entering to boat via drain hoses right to cockpit - could be not to healthy when full cockpit canvas is on - I bet you theirs lawyers though about this.

Have you read why you shouldn't drink before you post on the Internet?

 

[comsnark]

If you are slipped, and have an outdrive with bellows, I really like the idea of independent pumps in the bilge.

 

[surfinjoe]

When you say the back, are you talking about through-hulls to the stern? The answer would be 0....

The cockpit drains directly to the bilge. I believe that the 240 SD is a taller boat. Maybe the cockpit floor is further from the water line than the 220 SD. Can you post a few pic's showing how they made the 240 self bailing?

I'm surprised your 220 is not self-bailing? My 2006 240SD is self-bailing. How many through hull fittings do you have at the back of your boat?

 

[unlvrebel]

I understand your point and am not trying to argue however a one-way check valve would prevent water from entering into the boat. The through-hull Corsa Exhaust is also located at the water line.

I like the check-valve idea, but wouldn't the water have to be under pressure to get out? Otherwise how does the valve open? In the Corsa example, the water certainly is under pressure.

I am not interested in a fishing boat because I don't fish much. What I am trying to accomplish is set-up my boat so that there is less chance of swamping my boat. A self-bailing design is by far the best. Second prize goes to having multiple high-volume bilge pumps. Third prize goes to the current bilge/pump set-up as provided by Sea Ray.

I agree. Not interested in a fishing boat either. But in order to get a true self-bailing setup you need to have your deck high enough above the waterline to be effective snce the through hole needs to be below deck level. I like the second option. I would further consider blocking flow to the true bilge (the engine area) and reroute to the forward wet storage and put a high-volume pump in there that pumped out. Would certainly reduce/eliminate the possibility of fouling the engine with a large amount of sea water.

Hey... This setup could work for a BR trip to the Bahamas...:grin:

 

[surfinjoe]

Just found out through this post that the 240 SD is a self-bailing design. The 220 SD must be a hair too low to the water for SeaRay to make it self bailing. I will have to look into it further. I will continue to figure this beast out....and yes my idea is to have a seaworthy boat that could make it to the BH's My family has a condo on Singer island....it's a straight shot to the BH's from there! Besides, even if I don't make the trip, it never hurts to improve and be prepared....hell, here in Michigan I have taken a wave or two over the bow on Lk. St. Clair....

Let me know if you want to caravan to the BH's

I like the check-valve idea, but wouldn't the water have to be under pressure to get out? Otherwise how does the valve open? In the Corsa example, the water certainly is under pressure.

I like the check-valve idea, but wouldn't the water have to be under pressure to get out? Otherwise how does the valve open? In the Corsa example, the water certainly is under pressure.




I agree. Not interested in a fishing boat either. But in order to get a true self-bailing setup you need to have your deck high enough above the waterline to be effective snce the through hole needs to be below deck level. I like the second option. I would further consider blocking flow to the true bilge (the engine area) and reroute to the forward wet storage and put a high-volume pump in there that pumped out. Would certainly reduce/eliminate the possibility of fouling the engine with a large amount of sea water.

Hey... This setup could work for a BR trip to the Bahamas...:grin:

 

[tsandu]

I have a 185BR, and have replaced the useless 500gph rule bilge pump, with 2 * 1100gph pumps, eack with their own seperate float switches. Each has its own drain, and battery/fuse circuit. The drain plug even though above waterline, has the tube that connects to it going all the way to the top of the boat.. so water will only go back into the boat via the drain plug, if the boat was almost fully submerged.

All this is a few hours work one afternoon and under $100 in parts, but could save your boat, and ultimately the lifes of whoever you have onboard. Cheap insurance if you ask me..

This way (assuming you have a good battery setup.. which is another topic), even if you have a 1" hole in the bottom of the boat, you dont need to worry. Even if you have a 3" hole in the bottom of the boat.. it will give you plenty of time to find something to kind of cover it, and not worry about it.

 

[surfinjoe]

I am with you on that one! I may opt to keep the stock pump, but will most likley add two additional pumps: One for the deck and one for the bilge. Since my deck has two drains in it, I may also opt to make one of them self bailing (if possible)....that way I am covered all around.

I have a 185BR, and have replaced the useless 500gph rule bilge pump, with 2 * 1100gph pumps, eack with their own seperate float switches. Each has its own drain, and battery/fuse circuit. The drain plug even though above waterline, has the tube that connects to it going all the way to the top of the boat.. so water will only go back into the boat via the drain plug, if the boat was almost fully submerged.

All this is a few hours work one afternoon and under $100 in parts, but could save your boat, and ultimately the lifes of whoever you have onboard. Cheap insurance if you ask me..

This way (assuming you have a good battery setup.. which is another topic), even if you have a 1" hole in the bottom of the boat, you dont need to worry. Even if you have a 3" hole in the bottom of the boat.. it will give you plenty of time to find something to kind of cover it, and not worry about it.