Adding 12v Outlets - Hook into ...

[Just Right]

the panel in the engine room or what.

My last boat was a lilttle simpler, bus panels, inline fuses, everything easy and exposed.

This boat has all breakers so I don't want to add in a new circuit using fuses.

I am looking to add a dual 12v outlet in the cockpit to run items such as a tube inflater (10-15A), an LCD/DVD (7A), and a macerator (16A). Should I run it to the breaker box in the engine room and add a breaker or just run the circuit to the house battery and put a breaker at the outlets?

Also, should I use a 15A or 20A breaker?

Thanks for your input!

 

[boatmailster]

if it is possible connect it behind battery switch, the way that outlet will power down with switch off - this way you will not discharge batteries when you forget and leave something connected to outlet
20-25A should be OK
TV and inflater should have own internal fuses but main fuse will allow you to watch TV and inflate water toys

 

[NateRW21]

This is what I'd do...

Depending on how you want these outlets powered.....

Switched with ignition on:
Find yourself a 40A relay; these are easily available at the automotive electronics section of Best Buy. What you'll be doing is installing another circuit. Wire the supply side of the relay to a constant 12v hot supply (either direct from battery switch or your main 12v lead), run your switched side to just about any ignition hot wire. Ground goes to ground. Then, you have two wires left; one that gives you a completed circuit with the relay static, and one that gives a completed circuit with relay hot. Difference is, the one that is static will supply 12v until the switch side wire sees current. This wire you want to snip to about 3" long and seal with liquid electrical tape, or glue lined shrink tubing (let it overhang the end of the wire by 1/2", squeeze together while still hot; this will seal up the end). Now, that other wire, the one that completes the circuit when the relay is hot... that's the wire you want. This one leaves the circuit open until the supply side sees current (giving you power when the ignition is "on"); wire this one into an added on breaker (15A). I'd run with 12ga wire... no smaller. Now, you've just added an additional ignition switch circuit; this is the right way to do add-ons... bumping power off of an existing circuit is a BIG no-no.

If you want a constant hot circuit, just run your wire back to your battery switch (or the large supply wire if accessible), then up to a 15a breaker.

I'd advise against wiring ANYTHING except for your bilge pump direct to battery, bypassing the battery switch unless it's ignition switch. And even then you're still much better off going to the battery switch.

Use 10-12ga wire, no smaller. DO NOT exceed 15A on that breaker. I've never seen a 12v outlet rated for more than 15A.

 

[Just Right]

After reading your replies and opening up the distribution box in the ER, I am leaning towards adding a 15A breaker to that panel and taping into an existing #4 or 6 supply wire coming into the box.

From there it is about a 10' run with #12 tinned wire to the plug.

Now I need to find one of those push-button breakers like they have on that panel. I can't tell by looking what brand the are. Any ideas or search key words?

Thanks!

 

[boatmailster]

This is what I'd do...

Depending on how you want these outlets powered.....

Switched with ignition on:
Find yourself a 40A relay; these are easily available at the automotive electronics section of Best Buy. What you'll be doing is installing another circuit. Wire the supply side of the relay to a constant 12v hot supply (either direct from battery switch or your main 12v lead), run your switched side to just about any ignition hot wire. Ground goes to ground. Then, you have two wires left; one that gives you a completed circuit with the relay static, and one that gives a completed circuit with relay hot. Difference is, the one that is static will supply 12v until the switch side wire sees current. This wire you want to snip to about 3" long and seal with liquid electrical tape, or glue lined shrink tubing (let it overhang the end of the wire by 1/2", squeeze together while still hot; this will seal up the end). Now, that other wire, the one that completes the circuit when the relay is hot... that's the wire you want. This one leaves the circuit open until the supply side sees current (giving you power when the ignition is "on"); wire this one into an added on breaker (15A). I'd run with 12ga wire... no smaller. Now, you've just added an additional ignition switch circuit; this is the right way to do add-ons... bumping power off of an existing circuit is a BIG no-no.

If you want a constant hot circuit, just run your wire back to your battery switch (or the large supply wire if accessible), then up to a 15a breaker.

I'd advise against wiring ANYTHING except for your bilge pump direct to battery, bypassing the battery switch unless it's ignition switch. And even then you're still much better off going to the battery switch.

Use 10-12ga wire, no smaller. DO NOT exceed 15A on that breaker. I've never seen a 12v outlet rated for more than 15A.

That is nice complicated circuit what requires to have ignition ON to watch TV? and ignition protected relays if you plan to mount them inside bilge or you run into possibility of gasoline fumes explosion. You could use latching solenoid - same type what sea ray uses to activate power to smaller size anchor winches and activate it by accessory switch on dash. Some smaller boats have accessory position on ignition switch - you can use it instead ignition wire. Some of metal cigarette light sockets (metal ones) are rated up to 30A but majority of plastic ones go only to 15A. Your boat should have already small fuse panel under dash to connect additional accessories.

 

[NateRW21]

Obviously I was giving options; perhaps he wanted multiple outlets some switched, some not.

Thanks for covering on the ignition protected; I had assumed he'd mount the relay outside of the bilge... but really, I don't know where one would mount it; so yes, it is worth mentioning, if mounting a relay in the bilge, pick up an ignition protected relay.

http://www.ccis.com/home/mnemeth/12volt/12volta.htm

That has a good reference chart for required wire size (just in case you're thinking about a very long run... and btw, it's almost at the bottom of the page).

And be that as it may with metal sockets... You wouldn't catch me putting a standard metal socket in my boat; they are most definitely not made corrosion proof. I've yet to see a "marine" socket, plastic or stainless rated for more than 15A. But hey... maybe there's something out there I've not found in my own searching.

Latching solenoid ran by a switch on the dash is a pretty good idea too.

 

[2000SEARAY280SS]

I agree with boatmailster. That’s the way to go. AVOID non-ignition protected electrical components in the engine room.:smt021:smt021

 

[Just Right]

I agree with boatmailster. That’s the way to go. AVOID non-ignition protected electrical components in the engine room.:smt021:smt021

Know about that. The Klixon push button breaker is OEM for Sea Ray and is sealed for hazardous environments. Sea Ray has a plastic box with several breakers including 50A Main, 5A bilge pump, 3A sump, and a bunch of spots for windlass, accessories, etc., in the engine room so it should be a safe system. Not sure what they have in the newer boats, hopefully the put them somewhere that is easier to get to (have to raise the port engine hatch to get to the breakers).

My intent is to have this new circuit powered when ever the battery switch is on "2" for the house batteries. The dual 12v receptacle is from West Marine and is rated for 15A.

The 12 AWG THHN is more than adequate for the load and run so I think I am okay there.

Did I miss anything else? Tomorrow evening I will be drilling into the cockpit bulkhead next to the water connections - wish me luck and down a stiff one about 8 PM PST!

TY,

 

[2000SEARAY280SS]

This is next to the passenger seat on my S280. I added two fuse holders for the mercathode system.