Add EZ-Oil valves to 3126 Coolant J-Pipe

[dtfeld]

Looking to add EZ-Oil valves to the coolant J-Pipe on the 3126's to make the draining process easier, and more importantly, less messy. Since I'm planning to drain, clean and refill, I'll have to drain several times for each engine. Hoping this makes it easier/cleaner. Added similar valves to the transmissions and now thats a 10 minute job with no mess.

Here's my plan.

CAT Lists the plug in the J-Pipe as 7-16"-20 and its usually a UN or SAE straight thread with an o-ring sealing it up. The adapter listed below mates the SAE 7/16"-20 to 1/4" NPTF and that mates up to the EZ-115 EZ-Oil valve that has a 1/4-18 thread. I have a choice of steel ($7)or stainless for $20. I'm thinking stainless, but having dissimilar materials is a consideration, so looking for feedback on the material choice.

Anybody thought about this or already done this? Part #? Thoughts?

 

[Lazy Daze]

I've never used that brand - but have been using Fumoto oil valves for close to two decades on various cars (oil pans). These cars see lot's of road salt in the Winter. The Fumoto's are brass w/SS internals (I don't think they're bronze) - and there is zero corrosion. Although bronze is always the best choice for plugs, I wouldn't hesitate to use SS over steel.

 

[dtfeld]

I've never used that brand - but have been using Fumoto oil valves for close to two decades on various cars (oil pans). These cars see lot's of road salt in the Winter. The Fumoto's are brass w/SS internals (I don't think they're bronze) - and there is zero corrosion. Although bronze is always the best choice for plugs, I wouldn't hesitate to use SS over steel.

I’ll have to check out fumoto…

 

[Maybe A Dancer]

I want to the local hydraulic shop to get the necessary fittings.

Don't have a number to share, however I did set mine up with a plug below the valve, just to reduce the risk of someone accidentally bumping the valve open.

Will look for photos.

BEST !

RWS

 

[dtfeld]

I want to the local hydraulic shop to get the necessary fittings.

Don't have a number to share, however I did set mine up with a plug below the valve, just to reduce the risk of someone accidentally bumping the valve open.

Will look for photos.

BEST !

RWS

Photos would be nice. Also if you can confirm 7/16"-20?

I could use the local Parker store, but the Parker fittings in SS are about $100 each. That sent me looking for a different source.

The EZ-Oil valves can be "locked" with a zip tie or small hose clamp. For the coolant drain, I'll add these clamps.

 

[ttmott]

How often is the coolant drained?

 

[dtfeld]

How often is the coolant drained?

Not very often. But the PITA and mess factor is high, and my ability/desire to climb back there to get this done is diminishing.

For the flush/clean/refill mx it will be 3 times each engine. If I can do it without climbing back there a couple dozen times, my back and knees will thank me! Not getting younger or more flexible unfortunately.

My goal is to be able to do the job standing between the engines.

 

[ttmott]

yep but when done you'll probably never do it again on that boat. I see valves as another potential failure point. But, that's me.

 

[Njlarry]

Thanks for sharing the specs and pics. How will the coolant be collected? I have wondered if with the drain plug sooo low if siphoining from the top would be less mess.

 

[Lazy Daze]

David, here's another related idea to pass along...

The Fumoto version I use has a barb fitting where the liquid drains out. I would imagine the EZ drain may have something like that, too. The reason I use that one is that I can slip a hose on the barb and direct the fluid right into a container for a "no mess" drain. That works well when you can get a container underneath for a gravity drain like an oil pan on a truck. Not as convenient on a boat! However, you could use a small, inexpensive fluid transfer pump (battery operated, drill operated, etc) at the other end of a hose (that's attached to the barb fitting) and do the same thing. The hose could be quite long - long enough to reach to a much more convenient spot (even topsides) for your drain container. You could zip tie (or narrow band clamp) the hose onto the barb to ensure it stays put. You could even leave the hose on there all the time (still use the valve lock, of course) and just secure the open end of the hose up high to spot so it doesn't drip residual fluid out.

 

[bbwhitejr]

I’ll have to check out fumoto…

Dave I put the fumoto's on truck oil pan as wells as the transmissions on the 420DA at Dennis' recommendation. On the boat, I attached hoses to them so all I had to do was to open the little valve and drop the end of the hose in a container. That was the of "trying to prevent a mess." It also simplifies changing the oil in my truck. Never had any kind of an issue in either case.

Bennett

 

[dtfeld]

yep but when done you'll probably never do it again on that boat. I see valves as another potential failure point. But, that's me.

Valid concern for sure. But getting the ELC/cleaner out without making a huge mess that I’ll need to climb back there multiple times to clean up with a shop vac etc. is worth it to me on this one service. This is a multi day multi fill/drain procedure, so I’m looking to simplify.

But once installed I plan on using my fluid pump bucket to suck it out and collect it it 5 gallon buckets to recycle.

If I were really motivated I’d make a dedicated pump and use it to pump the new ELC back in. The 5 gallon buckets of ELC are a couple bucks cheaper.

 

[ttmott]

Valid concern for sure. But getting the ELC/cleaner out without making a huge mess that I’ll need to climb back there multiple times to clean up with a shop vac etc. is worth it to me on this one service. This is a multi day multi fill/drain procedure, so I’m looking to simplify.

But once installed I plan on using my fluid pump bucket to suck it out and collect it it 5 gallon buckets to recycle.

If I were really motivated I’d make a dedicated pump and use it to pump the new ELC back in. The 5 gallon buckets of ELC are a couple bucks cheaper.

This is the little pump I use; works perfectly. Wayne PC2. Inexpensive got it off Amazon. I've been using it for ten years filling and draining cooling systems.

 

[Maybe A Dancer]

photo as promised.

You can see the safety "plug" at the bottom.

Have no idea as to the part numbers, it was a trip to the local hydraulic supply.

Don't waste your time at NAPA/etc for this, they won't have, or even know about what fits.

 

[Maybe A Dancer]

Valid concern for sure. But getting the ELC/cleaner out without making a huge mess that I’ll need to climb back there multiple times to clean up with a shop vac etc. is worth it to me on this one service. This is a multi day multi fill/drain procedure, so I’m looking to simplify.

But once installed I plan on using my fluid pump bucket to suck it out and collect it it 5 gallon buckets to recycle.

If I were really motivated I’d make a dedicated pump and use it to pump the new ELC back in. The 5 gallon buckets of ELC are a couple bucks cheaper.

i used the 5 gallon buckets with a clear tube to fill er up using the old fashioned syphon method.

 

[dtfeld]

Thanks everybody for the reply’s.

@Maybe A Dancer thanks for the pic…I was worried if this assembly will fit in the 410. We shall see.

@ttmott will look for one of these pumps.

I looked at the Fumotos vs EZ-Oil, both get great reviews and only minor difference, the biggest being the EZ-Oil bodies are nickle plated.

I pulled the trigger on this combo off Amazon.

 

[dtfeld]

Oops. Just realized this fitting are Steel… Not Stainless Steel. Time for that second cup of coffee…

 

[dtfeld]

Alright…Mo better!

 

[Strecker25]

Keep us posted on this install, I really hated draining that port side

 

[dtfeld]

Parts in hand. I’m hoping this will allow me to drain the system before it’s completely cooled. Otherwise this process will take several days to complete.