AC pump

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by boatman37, Aug 11, 2018.

  1. boatman37

    boatman37 Well-Known Member

    Jun 6, 2015
    pittsburgh
    1986 Sea Ray 250 Sundancer
    5.7 Merc
    So playing around with this boat we surveyed last week. The AC was working but hardly anything exiting the thru hull. Today I pulled the output hose off the AC where it attaches to the thru hull and blew it out. Then went to pull the output line off the pump to blow the rest out and noticed a cable tie on the fitting holding it to the pump? Cut that off and loosened the hose clamps then went to pull the hose off the fitting and noticed it felt loose. Grabbed it and wiggled and the fitting came off in my hand. The fitting looks like it had broke and they used some type of silicon and the cable tie to hold it in place? The pump is a Dometic 250GPH. Looking around the 'net looks like a March pump? Anyway, the outlet fitting that is broke seems to be a part of the pump housing so looks like I need a whole new pump? No big deal but I'm not buying one until the boat is in my name (should be later this week). The strainer is also missing from inside the cup so need that too. How do I know which strainer I need? Or should I just buy a whole new strainer basket unit?
    Other than that just cleaning the boat for now. We have it at our house but we don't own it yet so not putting $$$ into it yet but are cleaning and seeing what we need. My bank should be paying off her loan Monday or likely Tuesday. After that we will go pick up her title and transfer it to me, which should be by the end of the week. Since it is getting close to the end of the season and we know the seller they let us bring it home to get started on it. She actually told me we could go ahead and start using it but I'm not comfortable with that.

    Boat is a 2006 Crownline 250CR
     
  2. Little Ducky

    Little Ducky Active Member

    934
    Jun 5, 2017
    Chattanooga TN/Dickson TN
    1998 SeaRay 290 Sundancer
    Twin EFI 5.0L w/Alpha 1 drives
    Post some pictures of the strainer and someone I bet will know exactly the type you need.

    It sucks about the AC pump. Here's hoping you don't find anything else rigged up that way.

    Did you buy the boat from my father? heheheeeee....
     
  3. boatman37

    boatman37 Well-Known Member

    Jun 6, 2015
    pittsburgh
    1986 Sea Ray 250 Sundancer
    5.7 Merc
    No but I'm sure your father would have been quicker...lol. Example, we spoke Thursday afternoon about meeting up Friday morning to sign some papers for the loan and had to get them notarized so we agreed to meet at AAA. FedEx said they package would be here by 10:30AM. So at about 10:15AM I texted the seller (who was off work yesterday) and said 'hey, FedEx isn't here yet but according to the tracking number will be here by 10:30'. She responded saying she was going to Costco 30 minutes from her home and would catch up with me when she got back at about noon. Normally not an issue but the timing was crucial here as I had to get the signed paperwork back to FedEx to be overnighted. We ended up meeting up in time and got everything done but I know when we sold ours the guy called and said he would take it. As soon as I got off work I went to the marina that day, pulled the boat and cleaned all of my personal belongings out. This whole ordeal has been like this with her. There was a buyer earlier this year but heard he walked because of this type of stuff. Luckily we sort of know here and actually have the boat here to start getting it ready. Washing and buffing it today. Should have it in my name by the end of the week. Not ordering any parts or spending actual money until it's in my name but at least figuring out what I need.
     
  4. Golfman25

    Golfman25 Member

    89
    Sep 12, 2009
    IL
    281
    V8
    Since there already was a fractured part I would buy a whole new pump and strainer setup. Start fresh.
     
  5. boatman37

    boatman37 Well-Known Member

    Jun 6, 2015
    pittsburgh
    1986 Sea Ray 250 Sundancer
    5.7 Merc
    kinda what i'm leaning towards. i like to do things right and that way i would know what i have. would like to buy the same pump so everything will fit as is so i don't have to re-route anything. where it is at is a little tight so can't go too big on the strainer. the one that is on there is probably 3-4" long and about 2" around. i will get a pic tomorrow and post it.
     
  6. GCHOG

    GCHOG Member GOLD Sponsor

    101
    Mar 25, 2016
    Bass River, Viking Marina, South Jersey
    2006 Sea Ray 260 Sundancer
    6.2 Bravo III
    morning Boatman,, you may not need a whole new pump, Im going through a similiar situation with my pump. mine is not broken, just a worn magnet/impeller. You can buy what is called a "wet end rebuild kit". I actually just got it a few days ago, found it on ebay for about $65 plus $7 shipping. I plan on installing it this coming Wed. It'll take no longer than about 30 minutes. I have it out in my truck, ill go get shortly and post the sellers info, etc. The kit comes with a new housing, impeller,o ring, screws, etc, everything you need.
     
    wrvond and Little Ducky like this.
  7. GCHOG

    GCHOG Member GOLD Sponsor

    101
    Mar 25, 2016
    Bass River, Viking Marina, South Jersey
    2006 Sea Ray 260 Sundancer
    6.2 Bravo III
    morning Boatman,, you may not need a whole new pump, Im going through a similiar situation with my pump. mine is not broken, just a worn magnet/impeller. You can buy what is called a "wet end rebuild kit". I actually just got it a few days ago, found it on ebay for about $65 plus $7 shipping. I plan on installing it this coming Wed. It'll take no longer than about 30 minutes. I have it out in my truck, ill go get shortly and post the sellers info, etc. The kit comes with a new housing, impeller,o ring, screws, etc, everything you need.
     
  8. boatman37

    boatman37 Well-Known Member

    Jun 6, 2015
    pittsburgh
    1986 Sea Ray 250 Sundancer
    5.7 Merc
    Thanks GC. will check that out. may just buy the whole new thing since it is probably the original from 12 years ago. but will definitely look into the wet kit
     
  9. Soulshine

    Soulshine Active Member

    195
    Sep 25, 2016
    Seneca Lake, NY
    '83 SRV 360 Express
    Twin Merc. 454
    Replacing damaged parts with suitable replacements is not only practical, but cost effective.

    A whole new pump at hundreds of dollars because of a broken plastic fitting is a waste of your money.

    If your car needed a muffler would you replace the entire engine?
     
  10. Golfman25

    Golfman25 Member

    89
    Sep 12, 2009
    IL
    281
    V8
    No but they might replace the rest of the exhaust system.
     
  11. boatman37

    boatman37 Well-Known Member

    Jun 6, 2015
    pittsburgh
    1986 Sea Ray 250 Sundancer
    5.7 Merc
    Likely to replace the whole pump. It's 12 years old and I would rather start with fresh. Looks like about $80 for the kit then my time spent, isn't really worth a 12 year old pump to me, especially given my inexperience with them and my 'rush' to get the boat in this weekend, being there are only a few weeks left in our season.
     
  12. boatman37

    boatman37 Well-Known Member

    Jun 6, 2015
    pittsburgh
    1986 Sea Ray 250 Sundancer
    5.7 Merc
    When you replace these pumps how are the wiring connections made? In a home environment you could use wire nuts but they have to be inside a gang box. How are these done on a boat? Mine are all taped up so I can't see where they are tied in and until I officially take ownership I don't want to be tearing it apart.
     
  13. wrvond

    wrvond Member SILVER Sponsor

    256
    Aug 27, 2016
    West Virginia
    1995 Sundancer 270
    Pa'u Hana
    7.4 liter Mercruiser w/Bravo II
    I’ve seen taped up wire nuts used, but much prefer water proof crimp connectors.
     
  14. Golfman25

    Golfman25 Member

    89
    Sep 12, 2009
    IL
    281
    V8
    Do it right. First slide a shrink wrap sleeve on the wire. Then use crimped wire connectors. Slide the shrink wrap over the connection and heat to shrink. If you don't want to use the sleeve, you should at least use electrical tape. Good luck.
     
  15. boatman37

    boatman37 Well-Known Member

    Jun 6, 2015
    pittsburgh
    1986 Sea Ray 250 Sundancer
    5.7 Merc
    I'm good with the shrink tubes. Have a packet of them here I use for just about all of my 12V wiring.
     
  16. boatman37

    boatman37 Well-Known Member

    Jun 6, 2015
    pittsburgh
    1986 Sea Ray 250 Sundancer
    5.7 Merc
    would this be an issue with the ignition safe system?
     
  17. PMC

    PMC Active Member

    Apr 10, 2009
    Long Island, NY
    2001 40 Sedan Bridge
    Cummins 6CTA
    I really prefer the crimp connectors with the heat shrink ends. It's a simple and clean connection.

    The connections should be done in a plastic gang box, with a non metallic connector.

    Zip tie any loose wires and you should be in great shape.
     

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  18. GCHOG

    GCHOG Member GOLD Sponsor

    101
    Mar 25, 2016
    Bass River, Viking Marina, South Jersey
    2006 Sea Ray 260 Sundancer
    6.2 Bravo III
    +1 on what PMC says, DO NOT use wire nuts in marine applications. The crimp connectors with shrink wrap are the way to go. Stagger your connections to make a nice clean looking job. Tape up your connections to complete the job.
     
  19. GCHOG

    GCHOG Member GOLD Sponsor

    101
    Mar 25, 2016
    Bass River, Viking Marina, South Jersey
    2006 Sea Ray 260 Sundancer
    6.2 Bravo III
    +1 on what PMC says, DO NOT use wire nuts in marine applications. The crimp connectors with shrink wrap are the way to go. Stagger your connections to make a nice clean looking job. Tape up your connections to complete the job.
     
  20. KevinC

    KevinC Well-Known Member

    Feb 25, 2011
    Long Island, NY
    2004 340 Sundancer
    1988 Proline Center Console - 90hp Mariner/Mercury
    1969 Boston Whaler
    Twin 8.1 V-drives
    Personal opinion here... I prefer to never use electrical tape - it eventually loosens and the glue turns to tar paste making everything a mess.. Use heat shrink tubing or better yet use the marine connectors that already have the shrink built in. Also all connections should be the double crimp type. Use nylon ties to secure.

    Also always leave a little slack in the wiring incase a connection needs to be removed/replaced or the equipment needs to be temporarily shifted.

    -Kevin
     
  21. mobocracy

    mobocracy Member

    255
    Jun 29, 2014
    United States
    310 Sundancer
    350 Mag & Bravo III
    Is it considered overly paranoid to use marine heat shrink over heat-shrink crimp connectors? I like to make sure the connection is for-sure sealed and that extra bit of heat shrink sealed to both sides of the original wire jacket and over 100% of the crimp fitting seems even better.
     

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