Ac pump problem

bryan25rs

Member
Jun 30, 2011
154
Cape Cod
Boat Info
2008 Sundancer 310
Engines
Mercruiser 6.2 Liter V-Drives w/DTS
I just got my 08 310 DA our last boat did not have ac. I didn't know you had to prime the pump. It was running all night in the morning it was very noisy. Will I need a new pump? Does it have an impeller? I am going to pull it out tomorrow. I read up on all the ways to prime it but couldn't find any outcome of leaving it running. Any input would be helpful.
thanks -Bryan
 
Hi Bryan,

If it was running dry, you will probably have to replace the impeller, and not necessarily the entire pump. (This wasn't good for the entire unit, but in general they are pretty hardy.) These are centrifugal pumps and aren't self priming. The magnet on the impeller is probably broken. (This is a quick change and probably less than a $100). In the future, you can start the unit and verify that water is coming out the ac through hull. The pump is usually below water line, but sometimes needs priming! Another way to prime is to take the boat out and put on plane for a minute!

Hope this helps and hope everything is ok with the unit!

Mike
 
If the pump is not primed the A/c unit will shut itself down after roughly 3 minutes. The pump is not self priming. The easiest way to prime it in the water is take it out for a ride. Run a little over idle speed and turn on the A/C unit for it to prime. Make sure your seacock is in the open position.

If you need to replace the pump you can actually use a pump made for fish tanks. Same kind of pump and much less expensive.
 
If the pump is not primed the A/c unit will shut itself down after roughly 3 minutes. The pump is not self priming. The easiest way to prime it in the water is take it out for a ride. Run a little over idle speed and turn on the A/C unit for it to prime. Make sure your seacock is in the open position.

If you need to replace the pump you can actually use a pump made for fish tanks. Same kind of pump and much less expensive.

Would not recommend a fish tank pump. Careful that it is not going to spark at all. Be sure that it is sealed and does not spark as you are in a very dangerous environment.

Not sure which one you have but my impeller is this one. http://www.boatersland.com/mrp0130-0020-0100.html?gclid=CNv_i_713rcCFWJlMgodsVwAVA Very easy to change. My pump is the March pump LC-3CP-MD. I sometimes get an air lock and just go to the out flow side and start to take to hose off until I can hear the air escape and takes off pushing water. But taking the boat out and running it on plane also works.

Here is the manual and parts list. http://www.marchpump.com/storage/966/files/0130-0032-1000.pdf
 
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There are self priming pumps. They are noisier, CO$T dearly and are usually found on higher end yachts.

1. The pump must be below the water line to operate properly.
2. The cooling water line run from the seacock to the "pee" hole needs to be a constant uphill run.

These two things keep the pump primed. Sea Ray usually does a real good job of this; better than a lot of other builders.

There is no need to take the boat out to prime the pump unless you want to. Place a garden hose against the pee hole and force water in the opposite direction until the bubbles coming out from under the boat stop. Done.

Also, check to see if there is a valve close to the pee hole inside the hull. Make sure it's open. Saint Max has one. I had never seen this before. I assume it's there for a reason and has something to do with winterization.
 
You can also take a shop vac and place it over the pee hole. Turn on the A/C and it will do the trick too!
 
I had never seen this before. I assume it's there for a reason and has something to do with winterization.


Happens to me almost every time I put the boat in the water off the trailer. Used to happen on my last boat as well.
 
It happens when I put the boat on my lift too. The only way to NOT lose prime is to close the seacock before you remove it from the water. It shouldn't lose prime if it's always in the water.
 
Happens to me almost every time I put the boat in the water off the trailer. Used to happen on my last boat as well.

You trailer a 340?!?!?!?????


were-not-worthy.jpg

Close the seacock and the valve near the pee hole before you haul. It'll create a vacuum and eliminate the problem. If that doesn't appeal to you, crack the lid on the strainer and let it fill up after you launch. I have found that gives enough water to start up the system.
 
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Yes, 3 times a year normally unless I need to do something to it on the hard then it can be more. Once to put it in from storage 30mi one way, once to take it on a lake MI trip 100mi one way roughly and once to put it away for the season. Also, towed it from Detroit when I bought it 4 years ago, 500mi.
 
If I may ask, how much for the trailer? I wonder if it would be cheaper than hauling and blocking in the " x " run years?
 
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I ordered the hole pump housing, the impeller and housing for $145.00 I hope it works. I am concerned because it looks like the unit uses the sea water to cool the motor as well. I hope I didnt just waste $145!
 
I had this happen to me, A/C would run 2-3 minutes and shut off. I cleaned the strainer, pulled the pump apart and checked everything. Still no A/C.

I was told the pump wasn't primed by a very wise man, so I loosened the clamp on the pump discharge until water came out. Cranked everything up and voila - cold air!

I'm thinking about adding a small veny line with valve on the discharge since I dry stack.
 
sounds like i may be having some problems similar to those described here. I have a new 260 DA - dry stack kept. went to test AC yesterday for first time since i took delivery, and the system cylcles on then turns off -its just not pulling water .... i have the Cruisair system. I get the High Pressure fault code on the panel. water is present in the seacock and strainer ( cleaned - no problems there ) . However it seems as though my AC pump will Not cycle on at all to pull the raw water throught the system - so obviously no discharge out of the boat either. It is normal when you have lost the water vacuum for the pump to not run AT ALL, not even at intial startup of the system ? I'm wondering if it is more than just an Air lock in they system ...
 
sounds like i may be having some problems similar to those described here. I have a new 260 DA - dry stack kept. went to test AC yesterday for first time since i took delivery, and the system cylcles on then turns off -its just not pulling water .... i have the Cruisair system. I get the High Pressure fault code on the panel. water is present in the seacock and strainer ( cleaned - no problems there ) . However it seems as though my AC pump will Not cycle on at all to pull the raw water throught the system - so obviously no discharge out of the boat either. It is normal when you have lost the water vacuum for the pump to not run AT ALL, not even at intial startup of the system ? I'm wondering if it is more than just an Air lock in they system ...

Yes it is an airlock. Place the boat in the water, and crack the lid on the strainer. Water should come out. Tighten the lid and start the AC. If that does not work, with the seacock open, put a running garden hose against the pee hole for about 15 - 30 seconds to purge and prime.
 
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Yes it is an airlock. Place the boat in the water, and crack the lid on the strainer. Water should come out. Tighten the lid and start the AC. If that does not work, with the seacock open, put a running garden hose against the pee hole for about 15 - eo seconds to purge and prime.

appreciate the advice... which i had acces to these boards while i was on her yesterday!
i'll give it a shot this week, definitely opened the strainer a couple of times and not issues there.. hopefully the garden hose method will work.
this forum is superb... someday i hope to be able to give back, rather than just seek advice !
 
I have the same problem since my boat is rack stored as well. Usually if I start the AC while th boat is running at speed it will prime itself.
 

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