AC/DC Refrigerator: How does it work?

[matthewmiller01]

How does the AC/DC refrigerator work (power-wise)? Is it an auctioneering circuit? Is it some sort of power seeking setup (does it run on a preferred supply [AC or DC] and only switch to the other source when that one goes away)? Does it go to a certain power supply )AC or DC) if it is available (normal seeking)? Is the fridge actually a DC fridge and has a rectifier on it and either uses the DC source or take the AC and run it through the rectifier to power it?

I have no problems with my fridge (knock on wood), I just want to know more about my boat. Thanks in advance!

 

[psubill78]

I've wondered this as well. In my '98 DA, I have a switch fir AC and for DC for the fridge. I've been manually just turning on one or the other, but today forgot to move to DC when under way...

Not sure if I can have both switches on the panel turned on...

 

[tbirdvet]

May depend on model but my unit defaults to AC when on shore power and then switches to DC with shore power off (assuming I have the circuit breaker on). This is done automatically.

 

[rwf]

Pretty much all of them "prefer" to run on AC. So, if you have both AC and DC on, it will run off the AC circuit. This config is pretty common for me as I have a 12V only drawer fridge, so I leave both breakers on; drawer gets to run on DC and the other fridges preferably "choose" to run on AC.

The dual-voltage fridges generally are built to run natively on one voltage and they will have a converter for the other. An AC-native fridge will have an inverter to convert battery voltage to AC, and DC fridges will have the equivalent of a DC power brick to convert the AC to DC.

Both styles need a power controller that chooses to run on AC when AC is available. When the fridge only works on one voltage, this is often the piece that is blown (if it isn't a fuse).

 

[matthewmiller01]

So I have 2 AC fridges and each has its own, dedicated inverter? Wow. That seems the costlier way to go. And, if both breakers are on, they will each run off of the AC power?

 

[jason78]

So I have 2 AC fridges and each has its own, dedicated inverter? Wow. That seems the costlier way to go. And, if both breakers are on, they will each run off of the AC power?

Yes as long as they have AC supplied to them they will run on AC as the preferred voltage This is the case with my Norcold fridge.


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[Hampton]

On the top, back of the fridge (2005 340 DA, Norcold), there is a unit which receives both the AC and the DC power sources. If AC is available, then AC is utilized to power the fridge. If only DC is avail, then it is used. I think the same power comes out the back end of the power unit, and I think that is DC, if I remember correctly. The box is only about 6" sq / rect and can be replaced separately if one source or the other (or both) fails to function.

 

[rwf]

So I have 2 AC fridges and each has its own, dedicated inverter? Wow. That seems the costlier way to go. And, if both breakers are on, they will each run off of the AC power?

Well, they have to have some justification for charging over $1000 for what otherwise would be a $100 dorm fridge.:smt043

 

[Pietro]

Norcold uses an 110V AC compressor, thus runs with an inverter when on DC. Other brands uses 12V DC compressor and run with a simpler converter when on AC!
Norcold’s inverters seems prone to breakage… (twice for me!)

 

[Express400]

I have always been confused about this....so please continue. I have a Norcold AC/DC, but I only have one breaker switch on the DC side. The fridge is always on regardless if I'm on shore power or not, even if the DC breaker is off. So when am I suppose to have the DC breaker switch on? And what position should it be when I'm running the generator?

 

[Paladin]

Norcolds (at least mine) also have a switch inside the fridge where you can turn it off or on, set the temp, etc. So if you have the switch inside the fridge on all the time, it will automatically be on whenever you are plugged into AC, automatically switch to DC when you're unplugged from AC, and never go off unless you have no AC and no DC (like if you turn off your battery/Perko switch.).
(I just turn it on when I need it from inside the fridge, because there's no switch for it on my AC panel or dash.)

 

[CV-23]

Norcold uses an 110V AC compressor, thus runs with an inverter when on DC. Other brands uses 12V DC compressor and run with a simpler converter when on AC!
Norcold’s inverters seems prone to breakage… (twice for me!)

That's why my next Refridge will not be a Norcold. Looks like this will be my choice! It fits my factory hole! Mine just stopped working....runs but does not cool.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/27084610635...AX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_3033wt_778

 

[Xplicitlnck]

I have a Norcold de541. Runs great off the battery supply but nothing but a green light off of 110. Tried calling rv places and looking online but can't find the power supply for it. Any of you know we're to get one?

 

[play dough]

I have a Norcold de541. Runs great off the battery supply but nothing but a green light off of 110. Tried calling rv places and looking online but can't find the power supply for it. Any of you know we're to get one?

I had the exact failure this weekend. Runs on DC but nothing on AC.

 

[GrandMaster]

I have always been confused about this....so please continue. I have a Norcold AC/DC, but I only have one breaker switch on the DC side. The fridge is always on regardless if I'm on shore power or not, even if the DC breaker is off. So when am I suppose to have the DC breaker switch on? And what position should it be when I'm running the generator?

If you are not on shore power, not running a generator, and have the 12v refrigerator breaker/switch to off your fridge should NOT be on under any circumstances. So if it is, either your 12V switch/breaker is bad or somebody has fiddled with the wiring.

So the only way you can kill power to your fridge is to turn off the battery switch?