A/C not working in cabin

[Hampton]

Back on Track:

Check for flow - if no flow:
1) With perfect system, pump needs priming - pull outgoing hose and turn on
2) Pump is primed - Check strainer. Close the through-hull ball valve (handle perpendicular), open strainer, remove basket and clean. While open, open ball valve temorarily to check flow rate through thru-hull (clean if blocked). These get growth and clog up.
3) Pump primed, strainer clean, thru hull flowing well - system clogged. I haven't done it, but you can put a hose against the out-flow port and try to back flush. I doubt the system is clogged. Normally they get dirty, but not enough to completely stop flow. When clogged enough to slow the flow too much, you can rinse with acid: Search this site. You take a bucket of acid mixed with water and draw that into the pump and system until it flows out the side. Shut it off. Let it sit. Flush with water. Repeat.

In summary, from most likely to least:
1) Prime Pump
2) Clean Strainer
3) Clean thru-hull
4) Acid-wash system
5) Replace pump and/or impeller assembly
6) Electrical malfunction

 

[beachcombersc]

Mike


Could not find just the impeller and B&E Marina, my Sea Ray Dealer confirmed that there was no breakdown on parts.

Dan

"All these pumps can be serviced with the use of a screwdriver. The only moving parts in the pump other than the motor, is the Impeller-Magnet Assembly. This Impeller-Magnet Assembly rotates on a stationary spindle and up against a thrust washer. This is the only part that can wear out, and may need to be replaced. See the Repair Parts List for replacement parts if necessary."

http://www.pumpagents.com/pdf/MarchPumps/0130-0091-0500.pdf

 

[Daniel P Thomas]

Mike
Nice work in finding that site.
Just checked and they do have the breakdown.

But also still lists the repair kit as the 'wet end kit'
I don't think I can just get the impeller from what it shows on the site.

Will be interesting to see pricing just on impeller with magnet.
If they do sell just the impeller.
I think I will pick one up as the rest of the assembly is all ok.
Thanks
Dan

 

[Asureyez]

Back on Track:

Check for flow - if no flow:
1) With perfect system, pump needs priming - pull outgoing hose and turn on
2) Pump is primed - Check strainer. Close the through-hull ball valve (handle perpendicular), open strainer, remove basket and clean. While open, open ball valve temorarily to check flow rate through thru-hull (clean if blocked). These get growth and clog up.
3) Pump primed, strainer clean, thru hull flowing well - system clogged. I haven't done it, but you can put a hose against the out-flow port and try to back flush. I doubt the system is clogged. Normally they get dirty, but not enough to completely stop flow. When clogged enough to slow the flow too much, you can rinse with acid: Search this site. You take a bucket of acid mixed with water and draw that into the pump and system until it flows out the side. Shut it off. Let it sit. Flush with water. Repeat.

In summary, from most likely to least:
1) Prime Pump
2) Clean Strainer
3) Clean thru-hull
4) Acid-wash system
5) Replace pump and/or impeller assembly
6) Electrical malfunction

What Hampton said.

If the AC worked and has stopped due to High pressure, the issue is 99 of a 100 water flow. Start at the pump and work back to the thru hull fitting.

Quickie Trouble Shoot:

Remove the clamps from the AC strainer inlet hose and pull hose off. Water flow should be strong, dribbles or very slow, the thru hull is plugged with a fish, plastic bag or other debris. Insert garden hose and let a strong dock water stream back wash the raw water inlet. Still no water flow? Replace the hose and clamp, remove the inlet hose at the thru hull while open, snake a tool, coat hanger or snake tape into the thru hull and rod out the plug, yes its wet but at least your cool! Clear the plug and replace the hose and clamp.

Last stand ... I just had a white CVS pharamacy plastic bag taken out of my thru hull by a diver. The bag had packed its self in real good, but wouldn't back out for me. I tried water pressure, snake tape nothing would get my water flow back.

I've long ago gotten over the fear of sinking my boat when working with the sea cock open on AC trouble shooting. (Make sure the pump is off tho)

Strong water flow at sea strainer but still HI PS? Back wash from the AC Inlet hose. Still HI PS? Acid Wash AC Heat Exchanger.

It is rarely the pump and almost always a clog.

In your case, with a small leak under the pump, I suspect a leaking hose on the suction side ... if so, you're loosing prime. Check the suction side hose for breaks or cracks, OK? Reclamp with new clamp & stop the air leak.

 

[Brutus C Paw]

I just had the same issue last week with my 07 38DA. The Skipper Bud Tech gave pretty much what has been said here, worn thrust washer which also scored the shaft. He gave me the option of just replacing the wet end or the whole pump including motor. I am not skilled enough to do this work myself, so the
Admiral opted for the whole pump.

Interesingly the tech said Sea Ray is using cheaper plastic pumps, and he has replaced three this year already in our Marina on the newer boats. He said the older models, he specifically cited 2002 since a friend I was with has that year 380, do not fail nearly as often.

 

[beachcombersc]

Mike
Nice work in finding that site.
Just checked and they do have the breakdown.

But also still lists the repair kit as the 'wet end kit'
I don't think I can just get the impeller from what it shows on the site.

Will be interesting to see pricing just on impeller with magnet.
If they do sell just the impeller.
I think I will pick one up as the rest of the assembly is all ok.
Thanks
Dan

Just to clarify, Its Rich, not Mike. I see how you got there... Thanks!!!

 

[roger275]

I'm having a similar problem and its due to loss of prime when I lift the boat out of the water. Does anyone know if a check valve between the strainer and the seacock would prevent pump from losing its prime? I will post back after I try it - just ordered # 22211 check valve from USA plastics.

 

[Asureyez]

I'm having a similar problem and its due to loss of prime when I lift the boat out of the water. Does anyone know if a check valve between the strainer and the seacock would prevent pump from losing its prime? I will post back after I try it - just ordered # 22211 check valve from USA plastics.

I'd think twice on installing another below water line set of clamps. I'd without question use double stainless 316 steel chose clamps on this rig.

 

[Sadler]

I'm having a similar problem and its due to loss of prime when I lift the boat out of the water. Does anyone know if a check valve between the strainer and the seacock would prevent pump from losing its prime? I will post back after I try it - just ordered # 22211 check valve from USA plastics.

Roger, do let us know if the check valve works. It'll be an easy fix. I tried a check valve I got from West Marine, and it didn't work. If the spring tension was set loose enough to not interfere with the normal flow of water, the seal was loose enough that over a couple of weeks sitting in dry stack, the water would leak through the check valve, loosing prime. But, in principle it should work.

 

[roger275]

Roger, do let us know if the check valve works. It'll be an easy fix. I tried a check valve I got from West Marine, and it didn't work. If the spring tension was set loose enough to not interfere with the normal flow of water, the seal was loose enough that over a couple of weeks sitting in dry stack, the water would leak through the check valve, loosing prime. But, in principle it should work.

I installed the 22211 US Plastic check valve and it worked after only a couple days in the sling. But I may have same problem if water does not stay trapped for weeks. We are going on a 2 week vacation and will check it again afterwards. Its great if it does work since you only need to get the inlet under water and can run the AC with it in the sling.

 

[Hampton]

On a different note, I was cautioned about installed plastic anything below the water line. It may be against boat building guidelines.

 

[Sadler]

I installed the 22211 US Plastic check valve and it worked after only a couple days in the sling. But I may have same problem if water does not stay trapped for weeks. We are going on a 2 week vacation and will check it again afterwards. Its great if it does work since you only need to get the inlet under water and can run the AC with it in the sling.

That's good news about the two day test. Two weeks should be a good test. Got my fingers crossed.

 

[roger275]

That's good news about the two day test. Two weeks should be a good test. Got my fingers crossed.

I went to the boat yesterday for first time in a month. Let it down until hull just touched water. Turned on AC and the pump did pick up! The check valve mentioned above does seem to hold prime even with boat out of water for extended periods.

 

[Sadler]

I went to the boat yesterday for first time in a month. Let it down until hull just touched water. Turned on AC and the pump did pick up! The check valve mentioned above does seem to hold prime even with boat out of water for extended periods.

Well done. And for $7.65, that's going to be one of the cheapest fixes ever on a boat. Now, I've got to strip out all my wiring, solenoid, etc I installed to prime mine. Wish you had done this about six months ago! :smt001

Thanks.