BigDog9721
Member
On my Sea Ray the current 4 cleats seem useless on where they are positioned... should i add more and if so where? Thanks in advance. See attached current cleat positioning.. not sure how to embed the picture...
92 BR 200 Cleat Placement
- Thread starter BigDog9721
- Start date
Chip S
Active Member
- Jun 17, 2019
- 432
- Boat Info
- 1993 Sea Ray 200 Overnighter
- Engines
- 2023 Mercury 150 hp Four Stroke Outboard
The PO of my boat added a springline cleat on each side of the boat. The cleat is slightly above the rub rail and about even with the front seats. You can see the exact positioning in the attached picture (ignore the old guy in the picture 
).
The springline cleats are easy to add and greatly improve the ability to secure the boat. Make sure you seal the holes with epoxy before mounting the cleats and make sure you use a metal backing plate. The studs are under the gunwale so they're easy to get to.
).The springline cleats are easy to add and greatly improve the ability to secure the boat. Make sure you seal the holes with epoxy before mounting the cleats and make sure you use a metal backing plate. The studs are under the gunwale so they're easy to get to.
Wait, you don't have cleats amidship? That's crazy. Well-positioned cleats are importing for properly securing the at boat!
I would minimally add 2 cleats in the middle area of the boat as Chip suggested. You could add 2 to each side. Since you have the opportunity to locate them where you want, make sure you can reach them from the cockpit in your normal canvas configuration. My AJ had a midship cleat that was hard to use because I could barely reach it from the cockpit.
If your boat is similar to Chip's I would consider to move the cleat back and up. That way you can easily reach it to attach a line or fender. The "ideal" way way mount anything through the outside is to overdrill the hole for the fastener, fill with epoxy, then drill a hole for the fastener. That prevents any water from seeping into the surrounding material and causing damage. Use some marine sealant as well. Do use a large backing plate to spread the load of the cleat on as much area as possible. It doesn't have to be metal; that can actually not work so well if the hull area is curved. You can use a piece of plywood with some fender washers.
I would minimally add 2 cleats in the middle area of the boat as Chip suggested. You could add 2 to each side. Since you have the opportunity to locate them where you want, make sure you can reach them from the cockpit in your normal canvas configuration. My AJ had a midship cleat that was hard to use because I could barely reach it from the cockpit.
If your boat is similar to Chip's I would consider to move the cleat back and up. That way you can easily reach it to attach a line or fender. The "ideal" way way mount anything through the outside is to overdrill the hole for the fastener, fill with epoxy, then drill a hole for the fastener. That prevents any water from seeping into the surrounding material and causing damage. Use some marine sealant as well. Do use a large backing plate to spread the load of the cleat on as much area as possible. It doesn't have to be metal; that can actually not work so well if the hull area is curved. You can use a piece of plywood with some fender washers.
Chip S
Active Member
- Jun 17, 2019
- 432
- Boat Info
- 1993 Sea Ray 200 Overnighter
- Engines
- 2023 Mercury 150 hp Four Stroke Outboard
The Sea Ray 200 series did not have cleats amidship. Sea Ray used 100% vinyl ester resin for the hull (expensive) but then only used four cleats (two astern and two at the bow). A couple of extra cleats would not have been that expensive. I do get confused sometimes regarding Sea Ray's decision making process, but I'm very happy with vinyl ester resin being used for the hull. I can add cleats, but I can't change the resin.
Agreed. Most boats could use more cleats. Like you said, it would not have cost much to add a pair of cleats. They can sell the value of vinylester, but a missing cleat might easily be overlooked during the buying process. I bet it's harder to sell the value of 2 extra cleats as a differentiating factor. Sometimes non-boaters are involved in the design process and don't appreciate the importance of some features.The Sea Ray 200 series did not have cleats amidship. Sea Ray used 100% vinyl ester resin for the hull (expensive) but then only used four cleats (two astern and two at the bow). A couple of extra cleats would not have been that expensive. I do get confused sometimes regarding Sea Ray's decision making process, but I'm very happy with vinyl ester resin being used for the hull. I can add cleats, but I can't change the resin.
BillK2632
Well-Known Member
Yeah, I added midship cleats to my 185, one of the best things I ever did. Invaluable, use for hanging fenders, springlines, tie off if I am just there for a few min. Too many reasons to mention.
BigDog9721
Member
ok my logic WAS correct... I like the idea of having a cleat(s) near the cockpit.. easy access to securing up a fender... so next question, what type of cleat? open base, folding , or pull up cleat? or any other suggestions?
Last edited:
BillK2632
Well-Known Member
I found cleats that match the other four.
Whatever you want, really. Any of the above will work for the purpose. I think I would not bother with a the folding or pull up cleat. They will be more expensive and it's not in a location where things are likely to catch on the cleat (toes, etc). I would try to find a cleat that is a close approximation of your existing hardware. Don't undersize the the cleat - I've never wished I had a smaller cleat, but often have wished for a bigger one.
Just as a point of reference, pull up cleats usually need a drain hose attached to the underside to drain away rainwater that collects. If you go that route be sure to attach a hose and drain it to a suitable location that's not directly into the bilge.
