88 sundancer 7.4 wont turn over

2013grandsport said:
Not cocky at all. Just wasn't sure why you said winterize when I am in southern Florida. It not once dawned on me that you did not or could not see that I was in southern Florida, so I was curious if there was some other reason to winterize. It is hard to interpret what one means sometime via text message or email etc. This is all taken out of proportion. I would appreciate those photos to look for rot.
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No problem! It's all good. I was getting kinda "hangry" before lunch.:grin:

Check out your other post on this forum. The photo is up on there.
 
so it doesnt look good.
 

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I wouldn't give up on the motor just yet. Like scoflaw mentioned, could be the drive. Even if the motor is seized, it is possible to get it freed up and running, as long as nothing is bend or broken. As far as the cores you drilled, where did that come from? Transom, stringers both? The thing to do there is drill a pattern of holes to determine how far and where the wetness goes - I say wetness because some relatively small wet areas and a rotten transom and stringers are not the same. And from the pictures, that doesn't look very wet, but I can only see it, not feel it. If they were truely wet and rotting, you could litterly see a watery goo oozing out of the holes you drilled. I would say most boats of that age have some wetness somewhere. Also a good time to start closely inspecting the transom and bottom for any stress cracks that indicate excessive flexing in the transom or stringers. It's a 30yr old boat, going to have some problems, just have to determine when the problems exceed what you are willing to deal with.
 
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Surprised the mods havn't spanked you for opening all these threads on the same issue. Newb thing right ? Like Bill said.....don't give up on this engine yet... more things can be done before giving it a death sentence.
 
Pull the drive and the spark plugs. Squirt whatever snake oil you got hanging around into the cylinders. Let it sit a bit and slowly work the crank with a bar.
 
Most of the folks I know here swear by Marvel Mystery Oil, pull the plugs and put it in.

Hint; Mark your plug wires as you remove them...front right, left front, dad taught me that.
 
Poor it in the cylinders and down the intake through the carburetor, let it soak at least overnight, then put a breaker bar on the crank and rock it back and forth. Don't go crazy, you can break the bolt off the front of the crank pulley then you have more problems. Patience, you might have to do this several times. A free engine should turn pretty easy with the plugs out. If you get if freed up you need to find out how the water got in it, probably failed risers, so need to fix that or it will happen again. But first things first, need to fix the what before you fix the how.
 
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I wouldn't bar it on the crank bolt, unless it turns easy. Your screwed if you break that bolt. Take the pulley off the balancer and thread in 3 grade 8 bolts, n use those.
 
So the boat is in the water, and doesnt take on any water. New engine runs great, and boat seems to drive well. Now were on to chasing electrical issues with lighting, and the bilge pump. While this is being done, I am having someone help recover all the seat cushions from below deck, fix the headliner, and clean things up a bit down there... Afterwards we will go on to redoing seating surfaces outside.
Just thought I would update.
 
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