86 268 DA Trailer Help

[lv2bunderwater]

CSRers,

I bought a used (1987) dual axle trailer at the end of the season last year. I was able to pull the boat out of the water and store it for the winter, but don't like the way the boat is riding on the trailer. The trailer has fixed metal brackets to hold the bunks and the lower bunks do not seem to be carrying the weight they should.

The trailer is rated for 8,000 lbs and should be long enough for my 268. Anyone know of a site that shows the proper location, angle, and bunks length for my boat? I plan on doing a lot of trailering this year and years to come and never want to worry about pulling the boat.

I'm a Do it Yourself kind of guy and pretty skilled. Any suggestions on where to place the bunks?

BTW, I have twin screws so the backend of the boat is heavy and needs proper support on the trailer.

Thanks!
lv2bunderwater

 

[Lazy Daze]

Diver, can you post a couple pics? There are a few options, but it'd make it a lot easier to see what we're dealing with.

 

[lv2bunderwater]

Lazy Daze,

I will try to snap some shots this evening. I have cut and rewelded the lower back bunks, but I still have issues. Up by the winch, the rear of the boat will float at the ramp. It caused the bow hook to turn downwards not allowing me to pull the boat all the way to the bow rest. As soon as I start forward on the ramp, the boat will settle on the back bunks causing the bow to rise again at the winch. This prevents me from pulling the boat all the way forward. I still need another 6 inches forward. 6 inches on a dual axle trailer makes a big difference hauling a 27' boat with twin screws.

Does anyone have any pics of their 268 trailer without the boat showing their bunks layout? Measurements would be just awesome!

Thanks for your help!
lv2bunderwater

 

[lv2bunderwater]

Sorry for the delay... It has been rain and the work week gets in the way!

Here are a couple of trailer pics. I need to raise the boat on the trailer an inch or two to ensure the boat does not hit the fender. Also, the boat still needs to come up another 6 inches to the bow rest.

 

[Lazy Daze]

You're positive the trailer is sound, correct? Have you tapped on the bottom/center of the crossmembers with a hammer to ensure they are not rusted? Assuming yes...

The height above the fenders is fine - the boat won't hit it, even if it comes in off-center. However, I would prefer to see those bunks line up on the outside/outboard edge of the lifting strake as this will help the boat center itself on the trailer easier. It's not imperative that it be this way, just better in comparison.

You have a trailer that was custom-made for another boat, so of course that makes things a little more difficult, but by no means impossible.

Having only 2 bunks (total) supporting the hull isn't necessarily a problem... for the boat. There are well-known trailer companies (ShoreLand'r, for one) that build trailers, even larger than yours, with only 2 bunks. The BIG question is, whether the trailer is capable of supporting the weight with only 4 points of contact, as opposed to 8. Since your trailer currently uses 4 bunks, I can only assume that it would be best to stick with that.

For now, let's assume you want to move all 4 bunks to a better location.

The first way to go is cutting the bunk's upright supports... moving them... and re-welding.

The second way to is remove all of the current bunks and start fresh with some bolt-on assemblies that can be sourced from directly from trailer manufacturers. To the best of my knowledge (and all the ones I've personally seen) the brackets that one would get from a local marine supplier aren't made for heavy boats. This would allow you put all four bunks exactly where you want them.

For the bow rest, we need to make the rest come to the boat. You're boat appears to sit nice and level on the trailer, you wouldn't want to lower the bow. Same choices here - cut and re-weld the rest, or get a new winch stand that is adjustable.

So, basically... cut and re-weld or buy new assemblies? What are your thoughts on that? I can help you (if you want) with getting the assemblies... I'm a little too far away to help with the welding :smt001

 

[lv2bunderwater]

Thanks Lazy Daze! I welcome the help!

The used trailer was built in 1987 and is rated for 8k lbs. I think it is plenty strong enough once the boat is sitting on it correctly. The trailer is made by Dorsey and seems to be popular for boats.

http://www.trailersbydorsey.com/

I was thinking of buying some 3" C channel to make my brackets with. I was then going to cut some 2 1/2" angle and drill holes in the C channel as well as the angle. That way the bunks would pivot to the proper angle of the bottom of the boat.

I will have to make my own brackets because the outer bunks are more than 12" long once welded on the trailer. I have a mig and arc welder, but I'm just learning how to weld. My neighbor is a retired sheet metal worker and loves to help out.

I was going to go with 1/4" C channel and angle. That should be plenty strong enough...

I think I need more support under the bow. Not for the weight, but to keep the bow from moving downward when the back of the boat is afloat in the water at the ramp. More support at the bow will allow me to pull or push the boat the 6" forward I need to line up the transom to the back edge of the trailer. I will also give me a little more weight on the tongue so the boat and trailer will not rock while going down the road...

Once the boat is sitting on the trailer nicely and I'm happy with everything, I will probably weld the angle to the C channel. That way the bunks will be fixed.

What do you think?

 

[Lazy Daze]

I think you've got a good plan - I like the way you're going with this.

1/4" will certainly suffice. Until you weld the angle to the C, I wouldn't use anything less than grade 5 bolts. I would also add a triangular gusset to the back side of the vertical C-channel. Any chance you can get your hands on tube (rectangular) stock instead of C-channel?

Drop a plumb bob off the vertical edge of the lifting strake... onto the top of the crossmember below it. This way you know where to weld the C-channel. Be sure to take into account how far the 2x6 will extend past the C-channel and allow about a 1/2" to 1" clearance between the inboard edge of the 2x6 and vertical (outboard) edge of the strake. Basically, your mark will be the inner edge of the 2x6.

From the pics, the boat does look like it's sitting nicely on the trailer (level). Take some other measurements between the hull and trailer (at the spots where the supports will be) for reference.

The inboard/inner/lower bunks don't necessarily need to be against the vertical surface of a strake, like the outer bunks... just on a nice flat spot (flat as in relation to the deadrise, not horizontal).

For the bow support (as you're coming onto/off the trailer)... that current bow roller is likely enough, but maybe you'd feel better if you mounted it a little higher, or on top of that cross member? But, you don't want to the stern to float too much. If it does, the bunks aren't going to do their job to center the boat as the boat will just float over them. It's likely the bow won't push down as much as you're thinking.

Any chance you have a truck scale/weigh station near you? You could get your current tongue weight that way - then you'd have a better idea of how much you want to move the trailer forward. Just use a 4x4 and set the coupler down onto it (the 4x4 should be cut to the appropriate length to allow the trailer to be level when it's setting on the 4x4).

Something to consider: Get rid of the carpet and put bunk glides (plastic) on. Tie Down makes a nice set for 2x6's. They make a HUGE difference in how easy it is to load and unload. I'll never go back to carpets again.

 

[KRB64]

Tie Down makes a nice set for 2x6's.

Web site says no retail sales?

Should tongue weight be a certain % of total weight?

 

[Lazy Daze]

Web site says no retail sales?

Should tongue weight be a certain % of total weight?

They are a manufacturer, so that sounds about right. You'd need to buy it through a retailer.

Most boat trailer manufacturers recommend 5% to 7% of gross. As the boat gets larger, though, this is not always feasible as the tongue weight may get too heavy for the vehicle. At that point, it's a bit of (careful) trial and error.